1x9 full chain guide?

cubedean

As someone has highlighted it looks as though my granny ring is buggered....so for the cost i'm going to look at a single ring setup.

Flicking through MBR this issue they are converting 1x10 but say 1x9 you would need a full chain guide.

I'm looking at using a raceface narrow wide 32t (would ideally want 30t but can't find one anywhere)

Thanks

nicklouse

cubedean wrote:

As someone has highlighted it looks as though my granny ring is buggered....so for the cost i'm going to look at a single ring setup.

******* through MBR this issue they are converting 1x10 but say 1x9 you would need a full chain guide.

I'm looking at using a raceface narrow wide 32t (would ideally want 30t but can't find one anywhere)

Thanks

so what is the question?

cubedean

Do I need to use a guide with the raceface ring? I don't see how 1x9 would need a guide and 1x10 not need one.

nicklouse

The problem is the rear mech. no 9spd clutch types.

cubedean

How does the clutch mech make a difference? You don't run them with 2x9 or 2x10 for that matter. I'm guessing it just keeps the chain taught?

cooldad

Pretty much and you do run a chain guide with 2x9/10 etc. But it's called a front mech.

The Rookie

The clutch mechs stop the chain detensioning under it's own weight over rough surfaces (when you get chain slap on the chainstay)......

cubedean

So the general jist is I will need at least a top guide with 1x9 to help prevent it jumping off....which means the extra cash for the narrow wide ring isn't worth it for a 1x9 setup? I may as well go for the normal raceface single ring at almost half the price.

nicklouse

cubedean wrote:

So the general jist is I will need at least a top guide with 1x9 to help prevent it jumping off....which means the extra cash for the narrow wide ring isn't worth it for a 1x9 setup? I may as well go for the normal raceface single ring at almost half the price.

and you will most likely need a bottom roller as well.

The Rookie

Or an inner and outer guide ring......

oxocube1

I run a 1x9 and use a full chain guide, bought a Superstar Plasma when they were on offer last week for £38. Hadn't really considered not having one or only using just the upper guide or lower roller by itself. I much prefer knowing that the chain will definitely stay in place rather than running the potential risk with an expensive chainring.

Also surely you would be spinning a lot with a 30t chainring? even a 32t would be pretty low. I personally run a 36t but I assume you live in a very 'hilly' area and expect to do a lot of climbing?

cubedean

oxocube1 wrote:

I run a 1x9 and use a full chain guide, bought a Superstar Plasma when they were on offer last week for £38. Hadn't really considered not having one or only using just the upper guide or lower roller by itself. I much prefer knowing that the chain will definitely stay in place rather than running the potential risk with an expensive chainring.

Also surely you would be spinning a lot with a 30t chainring? even a 32t would be pretty low. I personally run a 36t but I assume you live in a very 'hilly' area and expect to do a lot of climbing?

I currently run 24/38 and struggle on some climbs without using the 24 so I was looking for a middle ground but without trialling different ring sizes I don't know what will be best.

cubedean

I can't make my mind up whether to just replace both rings and keep the double, or go single and a guide.

Both are going to be much of a muchness price wise i think.

The Rookie

You can go 1x9 with dual ring chain guides quite cheaply, mine cost me about £35 (some pics in the top link in my sig)
1/ Used but nearly new E13 chainring
2/ Used ally bash
3/ Piece of carbon fibre I cut to fit the granny tabs to act as an inner chain guide.

Or you can use an n-gear jump stop (about £8) a bash as the outer and a lower such as a Stinger which is what my daughter uses.

alan1985

Hey I just tested my narrow wide at cyb yesterday 38T version on a 1x9 slx standard derailleur on an anthem, did a mix of mbr and some of the enduro route, had one chain drop and we were hammering it(my mate dropped his chain in the same place on a 2x10) the previous ride so it was pretty secure to be fair, I've got a top guide that I'll throw on at some point, I was in the smallest cog at the time so shifting up a gear or two would have kept the chain tight enough to stay on.
With the size I nearly went 36T but I'm really glad I didn't because I saved just over 500g in weight-its x4 spec shifters/front derailleur so factor that In if your regular places aren't too hilly otherwise you'll reach top end fast :-)

Barrelmaker

I run an MRP 1x chain guide with my 1x9 setup. I'm using my SLX crank and middle ring and haven't dropped the chain once.

cubedean

I decided to give it a go. I've ordered a 32t works components narrow/wide and a superstar xcr top guide.