Perfect cable routing??
londoncommuter
Posts: 1,550
Just cabling up my new road bike and am puzzling slightly on the best cable length and how to route them. I thought I'd just look for an on-line guide and some pictures of the "perfect" tidy bike but am struggling slightly. I'd like to route "conventionally" with gear and brake cables in front of the bars and not cross over the cables going to the rear under the down tube.
Looks a bit of a mess at the moment so any advice welcome. If it matters I've got 2012 SRAM red shifters and an externally routed frame.
Thanks
Looks a bit of a mess at the moment so any advice welcome. If it matters I've got 2012 SRAM red shifters and an externally routed frame.
Thanks
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Comments
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If you want 'perfect' routing then suggest that left front brake and gear cables passing the far side of the headtube,crossing-under downtube is the neatest way of doing it, that way you get the minimum number of bends and reduce cable-rub. Having cabled many, many bikes it's the tidiest way.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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I've no idea why (having no experience at all) but I'm not that keen on the crossing under the down tube. Maybe "perfect" wasn't quite the right word then. Best that can be acheived without them crossing......0
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Just google for some pics of pro bikes; there's often some quite detailed / close up shots of the handlebar / headtube area.
Also try YouTube for videos of cabling up a road bike. Some of it is a matter of personal preference. OCD tendencies usually mean I have to trim the outers a couple of times to get them nicely symmetrical. Couple of times I've come close to cutting the outer with the inner wire still inside! :oops:
Just make sure you don't cut them so short that it compromises steering.
I find the trickiest bit to get just right is the short length of outer that goes to the rear brake caliper. Too short and you can see the caliper flexing when you apply the brake, too long and it can push the caliper off-centre.
I also don't like the idea of crossing cables beneath the downtube; it messes with my head for reasons I can't adequately explain.0 -
Keef66 - that would be so stupid to forget the inner is in the outer when cutting it, can't imagine anyone doing that (see my post a couple of weeks ago and related purchase of new cable......).
All the pro shots these days seem to be Di2 so haven't found anything massively useful.0 -
londoncommuter wrote:I've no idea why (having no experience at all) but I'm not that keen on the crossing under the down tube. .
it is very common and has no detrimental effects and many advantages."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Maybe I should then. I've already cut the inners - stupid question but would they need to be ever so slightly longer?0
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londoncommuter wrote:Keef66 - that would be so stupid to forget the inner is in the outer when cutting it, can't imagine anyone doing that (see my post a couple of weeks ago and related purchase of new cable......)
I did read that post and had a 'there but for the grace of god' shudder.
Crossed cables might need to be 2 mm longer!0 -
FWIW I run all the cable on my bikes crossed, including CX and MTB and never experienced any problems - I hate it to see a frame where the paint's all scuffed on the headtube due to cable-rub when it's perfectly avoidable.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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londoncommuter wrote:Maybe I should then. I've already cut the inners - stupid question but would they need to be ever so slightly longer?
How can you cut the inners after the housing?- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
Sorry to bump my own post but for the life of me I still can't find pictures of good looking cabling to model mine on. All I can find are side on views, electronic shifters, internal frame routing and left hand front braking! Ideally I was after a picture of a Cervelo R3 or R5. Can anyone help?0
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Monty Dog wrote:FWIW I run all the cable on my bikes crossed, including CX and MTB and never experienced any problems - I hate it to see a frame where the paint's all scuffed on the headtube due to cable-rub when it's perfectly avoidable.
I've owned 2 specialized Allez road bikes. the first was cabled 'straight' on the downtube and the cable liters rubbed on the head tube a lot. Second Allez, cables were crossed on the down tube resulting in a nicer cable loop with plenty of clearance, so no rubbing on the head tube. Didn't notice any difference in performance.0 -
Here you go, my bike featuring perfect cable routing. All the cables are cut to the minimum length required i.e. no droopy bits at the front, short as possible. I think the front brake cable is actually a bit long though! Whoops.
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That's a nice side on view, I thought the op was looking for full frontal.0
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I run my brakes continental style, never found the need to cross gear cables, but have added this picture that just looks perfect. 8)0
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Working as a tour cycle guide, continental brake setup (front on the left) which the hire bikes have, causes all sorts of problems.
Never understood the logic in not just following motorbike convention and keeping front brake on the right. It's your most powerful hand (unless you're weird and left handed!), and if you ride a motorbike, it keeps it all the same.
And if you often have to switch between bikes like these, it's all too easy to grab the wrong brake, nasty if you're going into an Alpine hairpin at 80km/h....!0 -
bernithebiker wrote:Never understood the logic in not just following motorbike convention and keeping front brake on the right. It's your most powerful hand (unless you're weird and left handed!), and if you ride a motorbike, it keeps it all the same.
This is true. So many people have died because their left finger strength wasn't enough to stop the bike in time. If only they'd had right front braking.... Won't somebody think of the children!Faster than a tent.......0 -
Having the front brake lever on the left gives a much gentler sweep to the brake caliper.
Am I alone in tidying up the cut ends of the outer cables by grinding them square? Just cutting with snips always leaves them a bit jagged and uneven. Or maybe I just need some new snips.
And I agree with others, crossing gear cables under (or inside) down tube mskes things much neater.0 -
Rolf F wrote:bernithebiker wrote:Never understood the logic in not just following motorbike convention and keeping front brake on the right. It's your most powerful hand (unless you're weird and left handed!), and if you ride a motorbike, it keeps it all the same.
This is true. So many people have died because their left finger strength wasn't enough to stop the bike in time. If only they'd had right front braking.... Won't somebody think of the children!
Bizarre response!
I have had tour customers refuse to get on the hire bike because the brakes are the wrong way round. And I can understand why. I have seen a mate go to do a big skid on a friend's bike, and instead do a spectacular multiple flip endo. So the danger is there, and it's real!0 -
bernithebiker wrote:Rolf F wrote:bernithebiker wrote:Never understood the logic in not just following motorbike convention and keeping front brake on the right. It's your most powerful hand (unless you're weird and left handed!), and if you ride a motorbike, it keeps it all the same.
This is true. So many people have died because their left finger strength wasn't enough to stop the bike in time. If only they'd had right front braking.... Won't somebody think of the children!
Bizarre response!
I have had tour customers refuse to get on the hire bike because the brakes are the wrong way round. And I can understand why. I have seen a mate go to do a big skid on a friend's bike, and instead do a spectacular multiple flip endo. So the danger is there, and it's real!
One of our sales reps came back from the states having done exactly this on a hired MTB, and sporting some interesting facial injuries as a result!0 -
I'm right handed and also used to do thousands of miles riding and racing motorbikes, with motorbikes you controlled the gentle steering with the foot brake (I race supermotards, so the rear brake was probably used even more than the front), I do the same with my right hand on the rear brake, indeed when I changed over I did skid, however in those circumstances I would probably have either gone over the bars or dropped the bike if I had been riding the conventional UK way.
Oh and Bernie, both brakes are on the right side on most current day motorbikes :roll:
For most people who have tried the continental cabling pattern that I know, they will never go back to right hand front brake.0 -
Velonutter wrote:
Oh and Bernie, both brakes are on the right side on most current day motorbikes :roll:
I know, I've ridden motorbikes since I was 16, which makes 25 years; I recently sold my Ducati 999 as I wasn't riding it enough.
The rear brake is a foot brake so has nothing to do with what your hands are doing. For me, it just feels right, and makes sense to have the front brake on the right hand.
If left hand front braking is such a good idea, why don't motorbikes do it and put the clutch on the right?0 -
bernithebiker wrote:Velonutter wrote:
Oh and Bernie, both brakes are on the right side on most current day motorbikes :roll:
I know, I've ridden motorbikes since I was 16, which makes 25 years; I recently sold my Ducati 999 as I wasn't riding it enough.
The rear brake is a foot brake so has nothing to do with what your hands are doing. For me, it just feels right, and makes sense to have the front brake on the right hand.
If left hand front braking is such a good idea, why don't motorbikes do it and put the clutch on the right?
Cool Bike the 999, only ridden the 916, are they very different apart from the power?
As you know the clutch operation needs to sometimes be as delicate as the front brake, combining the two would be a PITA. :-)
For some continental braking works, for others it don't, there is no right or wrong way, just what works for the individual.0 -
The 999 was a great bike, 125hp I think, they're knocking out over 170 now though. I never rode a 916, but as I understood it, the 999 is that bit smoother, more refined, easier to ride with a cool digital dashboard!
However, it was often a pain in the ass to start, the battery was very small, and you simply couldn't leave it for more than about 10 days.
Not sure what you mean about combining clutch and front brake operation....how would that work?!
Just seems a shame to me that there is no agreed international standard. Would be a lot easier if everyone just used the same side for the front brake, right or left....(but I vote for right!)
This 1st picture is when new, and I was allowed to park it inside!
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Very cool Berni and in the right colour, your Missus must be chilled to allow you to bring it in the house!
170bhp out of the twin, that's manic, I had a couple of Aprillia Mille's and from memory they turned out about 130bhp but they delivered it in style :-)
I was taking the P about the clutch and front brake being combined on the right :-)
I always left my bikes on a trickle charger, made things a lot easier when using an alarm.
Switching over to the Motards meant kickstart only, so no battery to worry about losing it's charge.0