Constant BB30 issues after servicing from Evans

Tjgoodhew

So I have a Caad8 with the dreaded BB30 that people either seem to love or hate.

I am definitely a hater and have had issues with it over the past 12 months.

I am not sure if it is out of coincidence but both times its started to click and clunk and rattle after i have had it serviced by Evans.

The bike was bought from there on the C2W scheme. I took it back after 200 miles for its first service and pretty much straight after i got it back the issues started. Took it back and they said the BB was worn out (after 600 miles) and would need replacement. It wasnt covered under warranty and they wanted to charge £60 for the privilege. I took it to the LBS who had a look and solved the issue in about 10 minutes

Last month i took it back to Evans as i had a half price service voucher and i felt it needed the brakes and gears adjusting (1600 miles since the 1st service). The gears and brakes are now much better than they were so no issues there however the BB clicking and clunking is back.

So now i will need to take it back to the LBS to have a look at it and hopefully solve the problem again but im prob going to have to pay them. Its a massive hassle to get the bike to evans and im not sure i want them fiddling around with it anymore.

What i am after is some advice on what to do and what the problem could be and why it keeps happening. I want to complain to Evans about it but i want to make sure i have some idea of what i am talking about first

And is there a quick fix that i can do myself taking into account i have pretty much zero knowledge and experience of bike maintenance and dont really have huge amounts of spare time to learn via the trial and error method

jordan_217

As absolutely useless as Evans are....

I went through 3 sets of bearings on my CAAD10 in less than 500 dry miles (it's my race bike). I've now binned BB30, bought a FSA adapter sleeve and fitted a Shimano chainset and BB. No more problems!

My mate has a CAAD10, rides it in all conditions and hasn't experienced a single issue. I think manufacturing tolerances render some frames a PITA when it comes to BB30. I could push the non-drive side bearing cartridge into the shell with my hands, and not much pressure. The drive side was almost a square peg, round hole scenario - it was very tight.

Also, £60 to fettle with a BB/chainset is a pi55 take. Get yourself some tools and a work stand and DIY. When my bearings went, Westbrooks sent me some new cartridges straight away with no quibbles and at no expense to me.

mattv

I would expect £60 is a replacement bb and fitting charge. Is the cannondale bb a pressfit or circlips variety? A pressfit one relies on a tight fit to not move and make noise.

Old_Timer

Check the Cannondale website's technical documents section for the BB30 and PF30 installation instructions using a Loctite green level for the bearings. Getting the surfaces clean and using the Loctite gets the bearings seated properly, as does using a proper bearing installation tool.

I just did my BB30 (SRAM S-500) after it developed the clicking noises that became steadily worse as I rode. It took about 30 minutes to pull the assembly out, clean everything with isopropyl alcohol, grease where necessary and use the correct bearing locking compound and reassemble everything. No noises now, very smooth and quiet operation.

I was ready to get the BSA adapter and ditch the BB30 for a Shimano bottom bracket because of the noises. I tried tightening the bearing pre-load adjuster but had no luck. Now after following their directions things are fine. Should this not pan out the adapter, a Shimano BB and crankset will be forthcoming. Best of luck, it sounds like Evans is just milking you for a few quid each time you come by, as Jordan said above.

antfly

I doubt Evans touched the BB on a first service.If the bearings are shot {mine lasted about 1300 miles on the non-drive side} they are only 12 quid a pair but they can be a bugger to get out and you need a removal tool, cups and a press to install them. Probably best to let the lbs do it . If it just noisy then greasing the crankshaft ends and bearing id worked for me, that's just a case of removing the crank with a big allen key and applying the grease. Medium loctite is also used when installing the bearing to deal with noise problems.

Tjgoodhew

antfly wrote:

I doubt Evans touched the BB on a first service.If the bearings are shot {mine lasted about 1300 miles on the non-drive side} they are only 12 quid a pair but they can be a bugger to get out and you need a removal tool, cups and a press to install them. Probably best to let the lbs do it . If it just noisy then greasing the crankshaft ends and bearing id worked for me, that's just a case of removing the crank with a big allen key and applying the grease. Medium loctite is also used when installing the bearing to deal with noise problems.

Being a relative newby to cycling should i really need to start changing bearings after 1800 miles in 9 months ??

During those 1800 i would say nearly all of them have been in dry conditions on pretty good road surfaces and i live in Essex so there is limited climbing.

I just feel as tho i have paid Evans to service my bike and its come back with an issue. I wouldnt expect this with a car and wouldnt expect to pay somebody then have to start doing a load of work when i get it back.

Surely if there is an issue with the BB and the bearings are knackered why wasnt this dealt with or flagged whilst servicing it ?

antfly

Did you have their "Gold Service" ?

bernithebiker

20 000 miles so far on the original BB30 bearings in my Specialized SL4 Sworks.

This is the S Works crankset.

These bearings should last for ages, as they are big and don't take a huge load, and it's very low revs. I take mine apart about 3 times a year and regrease. It's very quick and easy.

Tjgoodhew

antfly wrote:

Did you have their "Gold Service" ?

It was a silver service. But it specifically says that the BB check is part of the service.

http://www.evanscycles.com/uploads/File ... ceList.pdf

Bottom Bracket
• Checked for free movement and adjusted as necessary

cloggsy

I've heard of lots of issues (not with Evans, but with Halfrauds), with BB30's being shipped without being lubed/greased at the factory and the bearings failing after 600 or so miles...

An LBS will be able to tell you if the BB has failed because of a lack of lube. Maybe they would be willing to write you a report stating as such and you'd get a freebie replacement? I know Halfrauds were aware of their issue and replaced the faulty bottom bracket bearings FOC as a result...

Worth a shot perhaps?

sungod

bernithebiker wrote:

20 000 miles so far on the original BB30 bearings in my Specialized SL4 Sworks.

This is the S Works crankset.

These bearings should last for ages, as they are big and don't take a huge load, and it's very low revs. I take mine apart about 3 times a year and regrease. It's very quick and easy.

^^^ this - with correct fitting and servicing, bb30 lasts ages

the only exception will be if frame/bearing/cranks are badly made

bb30 needs things to be in tolerance and aligned, early failure means something is wrong

more wet rides, service more often - grease gets flushed out by spray going down the seat tube and swooshing around in the bb shell, only a 15 minute job so no big deal, but you need to do it or crud will build up in there and get into the bearings

fwiw i got myself an asssaver for wet rides and with a little ingenuity that's stopped it, so now i don't get spray washed up the back and i service less often too, win win

cycleclinic

Or use a different BB system that is not prone to these issues. It is difficult to say if the service is the issue or not, given the installation is difficult to mess up I suspect bad luck and some thing is wrong. Have your bearings had locitie applied? Also a creak does not mean bad bearings it can mean bearing that move slightly in there seats hence loctite. To be fair to evan's the bearing may have been fine when they checked everything and if they wear they are not going to remove the bearings to see if loctite has been used. Also the bike will come with bearings fitted so Evan's have no say how if loctite was used or not that is down to the distributor.

So while we may not like the big chains let us be cautious about bashing them as there is much uncertainty.

Tjgoodhew

thecycleclinic wrote:

Or use a different BB system that is not prone to these issues. It is difficult to say if the service is the issue or not, given the installation is difficult to mess up I suspect bad luck and some thing is wrong. Have your bearings had locitie applied? Also a creak does not mean bad bearings it can mean bearing that move slightly in there seats hence loctite. To be fair to evan's the bearing may have been fine when they checked everything and if they wear they are not going to remove the bearings to see if loctite has been used. Also the bike will come with bearings fitted so Evan's have no say how if loctite was used or not that is down to the distributor.

So while we may not like the big chains let us be cautious about bashing them as there is much uncertainty.

I wasnt meaning to lay into them instead i wanted to see if they possible could of been at fault.

By reading this then it may not be anything to do with them and just bad luck.

I will be buying a new bike in the spring and I will definitely be avoiding anything with a BB30. Unfortunately for me that rules out the Supersix Red

trailflow

Learn to do it yourself. Its not all that complicated. You may only need to replace one side. Take your chainset off (assuming you have the tools). Spin the bearing with your fingers. Check for any roughness. If any then it will need replacing.

Bearings £1.83 each

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/68062RS-aka-6 ... 337a14aac0

BB30 removal tool £4.49 - (You'll need a metal tube/rod about 8 inches long + a hammer) Insert this - pointy bit outwards. Then use the hammer and rod on the other side. Gently tap (at first) then a good whack the bearing will come out. Lay your bike flat on the ground and support it from rocking. It makes the job much easier. try not too damage the circlip already installed behind your bearing. Leave the circlip in. Do not remove it.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... tAodVGgAMw

Homemade BB30 press fit tool. £5 posted. Works fine. All you need is a spanner to use it. Pressing the bearings in will take 60 seconds.

viewtopic.php?f=40091&t=12945750

Job done.

Bozman

trailflow wrote:

Learn to do it yourself. Its not all that complicated. You may only need to replace one side. Take your chainset off (assuming you have the tools). Spin the bearing with your fingers. Check for any roughness. If any then it will need replacing.

Bearings £1.83 each

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/68062RS-aka-6 ... 337a14aac0

BB30 removal tool £4.49 - (You'll need a metal tube/rod about 8 inches long + a hammer) Insert this - pointy bit outwards. Then use the hammer and rod on the other side. Gently tap (at first) then a good whack the bearing will come out. Lay your bike flat on the ground and support it from rocking. It makes the job much easier. try not too damage the circlip already installed behind your bearing. Leave the circlip in. Do not remove it.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... tAodVGgAMw

Homemade BB30 press fit tool. £5 posted. Works fine. All you need is a spanner to use it. Pressing the bearings in will take 60 seconds.

viewtopic.php?f=40091&t=12945750

Job done.

+1 Pretty much the way I used to do it.

smidsy

I never understand why people spend so much time defending a BB system that real world experience of the masses proves is not executed well enough.

Push fit BB's are inferior to good old threaded BB systems, simple as. It matters not if you get 500 miles or 50000 miles from it.

They are not as good and for every one person who has never experienced an issue there are 10 or 50 or 300 that have.