Need help with Mountain bike tyres (Changing to slicks)

The Rookie

I have a 1.5" Ribmo, it's quite fast rolling and the strange tread shape means lots of tread thickness on the centre to resist punctures.

I don't ride CJ's no, and all my road commute tyres are 1.5", I tried 1.1" but found the bike too skittish with my daily 6kg pannier weight and the steep head angle forks I had at the time, my new slacker forks may be OK for them on the front.

swod1

Simon E wrote:

You can't really blame the tyres. City Jets are an economy tyre, they don't have as tough a puncture belt like tyres such as Marathons or the Ribmo, but are (unsurprisingly) rather cheaper than those types. I usually had 1 or 2 punctures per year commuting with City Jets, invariably caused by a small glass shard or nail/staple.

If the hole is small you could superglue it and put a piece of duct tape across it on the inside of the tyre.

It seems the tyre is ok fixed the puncture and managed to put over 40 psi in with mini pump, the rubber tread came together so you don't see any hole there.

Are the marathons and ribmo tyres more flexible as the city jets are rather a rough ride when they are fully pumped up.

I only have a 7.5mile ride each way and the roads are pretty rough though

simon_e

swod1 wrote:

Are the marathons and ribmo tyres more flexible as the city jets are rather a rough ride when they are fully pumped up.

I only have a 7.5mile ride each way and the roads are pretty rough though

If it feels too hard then don't pump them up to max pressure. Like speed limits, is a maximum, not a recommendation.

I wouldn't necessarily give up on what many consider a perfectly good model of tyre after 1 puncture. The models with better protection are usually less compliant so likely to be a little slower rolling if anything and, if they have sidewall protection, possibly a little less comfy. You seem to be searching for a 'holy grail' tyre, and I'm not sure it exists.