Bearings Required - Can't find em!

The Northern Monkey

Need some bearings as I'm stripping the Canyon so figured I'd replace them at the same time.

But, I can't find these ones for some reason. Done a google search and I'm only getting US based shops.

Bearing 698-2ZZ
Spherical Bearing GE8-C


Any ideas?!

Thanks in advance!

rockmonkeysc

Go to your local bearing shop and take the old bearings with you. I don't recognise those numbers, they could be DIN standard rather than the ISO standards I use at work.

jimothy78

Found info on a german site that appears to suggest that 2ZZ is synonymous with 2RS.

If that's right then 689 2RS gives a double-sealed bearing of dimensions 8x19x6mm - check the measurements of your existing bearings, and that will hopefully be a match - if so they're easy to find on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/?_nkw=698-2rs

Kowalski675

2RS just means they have two rubber seals (one either side, obviously).

rockmonkeysc

jimothy78 wrote:

Found info on a german site that appears to suggest that 2ZZ is synonymous with 2RS.

If that's right then 689 2RS gives a double-sealed bearing of dimensions 8x19x6mm - check the measurements of your existing bearings, and that will hopefully be a match - if so they're easy to find on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/?_nkw=698-2rs

Sounds right. It's worth paying a little extra and getting Koyo bearings.
After 6 months its worth stripping the frame and turning the bearings 90 degrees. Suspension bearings only use a fraction of a turn so they wear in a small area. Turning them extends their life considerably

cooldad

Your Google fu is weak.
AFAIK all 2ZZ means is it's sealed both sides (the ZZ is metal seals) so:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40

And

http://www.engineersmate.com/products/S ... GS/P205458

Kowalski675

cooldad wrote:

Your Google fu is weak.
AFAIK all 2ZZ means is it's sealed both sides

I thought that was the case (from previous trips to my local bearing factor, shopping for wheel bearings), but wasn't 100% sure my recollection was correct. Metal seals give less friction, but rubber seals better weatherproofing. In a suspension pivot application I'd rather have the rubber seals.

The Northern Monkey

Legends the lot of you! Thanks very much!

The spherical ones look in ok condition tbh, so may leave them for the time being. Now I just need a bearing puller!

jimothy78

cooldad wrote:

Your Google fu is weak.
AFAIK all 2ZZ means is it's sealed both sides

as does 2RS (although rubber seals admittedly :oops: ) but anyway, the dimensions were right

stubs

I did the bearings on mine and the GE8c can be bought but they are very expensive and will be a custard to pull out and press in you need a hydraulic press according to Canyon. I stripped everything from the rear apart from the GE8s and flushed them through with 3 in 1 silicone spray turning it so the muck could come out. As its a spherical bearing you can turn the inner through 90 degrees so you can get to the bearing surface.

I made my own bearing pullers from various diameters of studding, sockets, plus the right size nuts and washers the only ones to cause any grief are the chainstay bearings they need a drift, a hammer, a strong nerve, a steady hand and a surprisingly hard whack to shift, make sure the little spacer between the bearings doesnt ping to the back of the shed.

This pdf is for the Nerve XC but should be similar to yours http://www.canyon.com/downloads/supportcenter/nerve_xc_11.pdf

The Northern Monkey

Yeah thats one reason why they're staying put tbh... cleaned up they're ok.

I take it that with the chainstay bearings I can knock them through from the other side?

stubs

Yes I used a drift a 3/16" one iirc put the chainstay on a work bench over a block of wood with a hole slightly bigger than the bearings drilled in it. Got a mate to hold the stay then pushed the spacer between the bearings aside with the drift, it moves just enough to get a deburred squared off drift to catch the bearing. I started tapping but it really does take a whack to shift I think it was loctited in. Worked around it 3 oclock 6 oclock and so on, once you have one out you can shift the other with a vice and a socket. They press in again with a vice using the old bearings as a drift but DONT forget the spacer like some idiot I know did :oops: with a Specialized FSR a few years ago