Replacing disc brakes - is it a manageable job?

bucklb
bucklb Posts: 296
edited November 2013 in The workshop
Is replacing one set of mechanical disc brakes with a different mechanical set a realistic job to tackle for a home mechanic or best left to an LBS?

The mechanical disc brakes fitted to my bike are not instilling huge confidence (Bengal mb606, I think). I'm wondering about fitting a new setup but it's not the kind of thing I've ever tried, so I'm not 100% confident. I routinely replace my cassettes/bottom brackets etc so I'm not starting entirely from scratch. What level of competence is needed for the task?

Ta
Bob
________________________
So it goes ...

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    not difficult. just read the instructions.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Giraffoto
    Giraffoto Posts: 2,078
    While not disagreeing with Nick's point that it's pretty straightforward, I'd suggest you consider taking it a step further and going for hydraulics. You wouldn't be paying much more (less in some cases!) and you'd get better braking and less of a maintenance burden.
    Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
    XM-057 rigid 29er
  • mpdouglas
    mpdouglas Posts: 220
    I totally agree on the extra effectiveness of hydraulics but they're an altogether more challenging install if (as is likely) the hoses need shortening to fit your bike. If you're not a confident DIY mechanic, the whole idea of cutting hydraulic hose, re-making the seal on the end of the hose and then bleeding the brakes is probably too much for you.
    "The Flying Scot"
    Commute - Boardman CXR 9.4 Di2
    Sunday Best - Canyon Ultimate SLX Disc w/ DuraAce Di2
  • as said mechanical discs are a doddle to fit,
    hydraulics can be a pain
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    i would say the opposite but neither are difficult.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • bucklb
    bucklb Posts: 296
    Thanks for the inputs thus far. I have to say my gut reaction is the mechanical rather than hydraulic route.

    I'm wondering if something like this is the way forward? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190916460365

    They're cheap & hopefully cheerful and I believe ought to be a reasonable set for my bike (a 2 year earlier version of http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/product ... ce-disc-13).

    I assume that I could, in theory, continue using my existing (basic Tektro) brake levers and potentially even my existing (160mm) rotors and just put on the new brake calipers. Or would that be a daft compromise/shortcut?

    Ta
    Bob
    ________________________
    So it goes ...
  • Giraffoto
    Giraffoto Posts: 2,078
    Yes, BB5s are good brakes - you squeeze the lever and the bike slows down, plenty of power, modulation's easy. Even better if you get Avid Speed Dial levers. The reason that I replaced a set of these with Shimano Deores was adjustment - the BB5s seem to need the pads adjusted after every couple of rides to keep them right on their game, but the Deores went on once and I never adjusted them again. (That said, adjusting the pads on a BB5 isn't at all tricky)
    Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
    XM-057 rigid 29er
  • I went from the crap mechanical brakes that came with my bike (Tektro Novelo), and installed some hydraulic Shimano BR-M785 pre-bled kits with ice tech rotors which are light years ahead, with 180mm front 160mm back. This was the first time I have done such work on a bike, though have done brake pads on a car and other car mechanics type stuff before.

    It is definitely a manageable job. Just be methodical, and make sure you use a torque wrench with a range suitable for the low torques needed. If going hydraulic, with some care you can shorten the hoses without needing to bleed. I would suggest going hydraulic unless you have some compelling reason to go mechanical, such as using a bike for long distance touring. The pads self-adjust out and rarely need fettling with unless you change the pads. One issue I had was some rubbing of the disc on the pads as the wheel span. Plenty of time and spinning the wheel checking where it touched by shining a torch down the side, and bending the disc, got it how it should be. When installing the calipers, before tightening the mounting bolts as it's loose, apply the brakes (with wheel and disc installed), and this centres and straightens it so that it is perfectly aligned.
  • bucklb wrote:
    Thanks for the inputs thus far. I have to say my gut reaction is the mechanical rather than hydraulic route.

    I'm wondering if something like this is the way forward? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190916460365
    I originally looked at those and some googling found the HS1 rotors are being mass faked, hence knock down price on ebay. The brakes themselves are probably genuine though.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Have some BB7's for sale, PM me if you are interested.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.