BB 30 tool ruins frame

antfly

Anyone know how you are supposed to use this without ruining the frame ?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_242558

The problem is it's wider than the bearing and so crushes the frame as you tighten it, I have cracked the paint and if I tightened any more might have crushed the carbon. The piece of junk also falls apart everywhere it can. Worst buy ever.

nicklouse

i would guess you have not positioned it correctly on the frame. as i guess your issue is the tool pressing on the outside of the BB shell and tube connections.

but would not have been my choice of BB30 tool.

antfly

I tried everything, there is no way of using it without crushing the frame, it's too wide. It did start to come out but the frame might well have cracked if I turned it any more, not just the paint.
Can you recommend me a better tool ?
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=568

Would that work ?

sungod

this works fine...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... -prod36371

...sits on the inside of the bearing and you use a drift to gently tap it out

for insertion, these plus big nut+bolt+washer...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... -prod36370

nicklouse

antfly wrote:

I tried everything, there is no way of using it without crushing the frame, it's too wide.

how?
what is to wide and to me wide and crush just do not go together.

narrow and crush yes.
wide and expand yes.

just trying to understand what is actually happening.

arthur_scrimshaw

antfly wrote:

I tried everything, there is no way of using it without crushing the frame, it's too wide. It did start to come out but the frame might well have cracked if I turned it any more, not just the paint.
Can you recommend me a better tool ?
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=568

Would that work ?

I use this

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom- ... 0-bbt-30-3

Works a treat and I paid about the same for it (£32)

edit - I use the supplied spacers with a headset press to replace the bearings.

arthur_scrimshaw

nicklouse wrote:

antfly wrote:

I tried everything, there is no way of using it without crushing the frame, it's too wide.

how?
what is to wide and to me wide and crush just do not go together.

narrow and crush yes.
wide and expand yes.

just trying to understand what is actually happening.

Looking at the ice tool it looks like it draws the bearing out, the threaded bit goes through the bearing, opens out and then you would wind the thread out, the main body of the tool must face up against the frame as you are extracting the bearing hence the crushing? I'd have thought the tool would be designed to pull against the bearing sleeve which is bonded to the frame?

antfly

nicklouse wrote:

antfly wrote:

I tried everything, there is no way of using it without crushing the frame, it's too wide.

how?
what is to wide and to me wide and crush just do not go together.

narrow and crush yes.
wide and expand yes.

just trying to understand what is actually happening.

Wide as in you put it through the bearing and the metal device rests against the BB area of the frame as you tighten it, it comes out with a lot of pressure but you are tightening it against the frame. It's too wide to rest against the bearing which is why it ruins the bike.

Arthur, with the Park tool do you knock it through from the other side of the BB or do you knock it loose from the outside of the bearing ? Edit:I get it, I just watched the video.

arthur_scrimshaw

You put the tool in the opposite side to the bearing you want to drift out and it locates against the inner face of the bearing, you the tap it with a small hammer, turning it if need to keep it square as the bearing comes out. The cutaway shape of the tool is so you can get it past the first bearing.

Edit, just read your post properly!

Ben6899

Which bit rests against the frame? The bit with the rubber handle? Surely that's the idea? If it rested against the bearing, well then you'd be trying to remove the bearing by pulling against... the bearing. That would simply clamp the bearing. Wouldn't it?

antfly

Bearing sleeve I should have said.The metal bit rests against the frame, not the handle. The thing is a terrible design.
Thanks Arthur, I ordered one.

nicklouse

should rest on the sides of the BB face and the bearing is pulled into the space.

what frame?

antfly

It's a Cannondale supersix.

paulmon

sungod wrote:

this works fine...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... -prod36371

...sits on the inside of the bearing and you use a drift to gently tap it out

for insertion, these plus big nut+bolt+washer...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... -prod36370

Have used these and they work a treat. I had to use a whack rather than a gentle tap to get it out though.

antfly

I didn't get that because the cups are out of stock and I would have still needed a drift anyway and I don't want to do any more damage.I already have the cheap press.

rhnb

I've got the Ice tool bb30 bearing puller you're using, and I'm finding it hard to work out what the problem is. I've removed bearings in my frame (Cinelli) a few times using it and haven't had any problems at all. They pull out very smoothly, and surprisingly easily. On my frame the tool sits against the alloy 'sleeve' that the bearings push into, so doesn't touch the carbon of the frame.
To install, I use a head press. The bearings haven't been put in with some sort of Loctite or something on them have they? Apparantly some folk do that to stop creaking, but it would have to be the type that allowed removal.

antfly

It should only be used on bbs with a wide metal sleeve, which mine doesn't have. Don't use it if it touches the paintwork at all, I am annoyed with myself more than anything for trying to use it at all although the crappy thing did fall apart anyway.