Hubs

TheBigBean
TheBigBean Posts: 21,618
edited October 2013 in Workshop
My front hub has developed more resistance than normal when I spin it i.e. it comes to a halt much faster. It spins much better with the QR undone, but that's not so useful for riding on.

It's probably done 5000 miles, is a Tiagra hub with Mavic Open Sport rims - not exactly an expensive wheel.

Does this mean that the hub is approaching the end of its life? And if so, what's the best course of action?
1. Ignore it, it still spins just not as well.
2. Some sort of serving
3. Use the new front hub I have kicking around, but I'm really not great at building wheels.
4. Buy a new wheel.

I'd be grateful for any thoughts.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    sounds like time to service it and the nuts are loose.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • TheBigBean
    TheBigBean Posts: 21,618
    Thanks for your help. Did you mean the nuts are loose rather than tight? It seems slightly counter-intuitive to me - although my bike intuition is not to be relied upon!

    Having spent some time googling, I've come to the conclusion that just when I thought I had every tool I could ever require... I need some cone wrenches. I think I need the 13/15 mm ones (I have a 105 rear), but lots of people recommend buying two which I don't understand.
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    I have a wheel with Tiagra hubs and they just need regular servicing (I do min eevery 1k miles) - buy some new ball bearings (I get mine from http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/ball-bearing ... e=1&page=1 I buy the Shimano ones cause I find all the grades confusing and they are not that dear anyway. Open up your hub ditch the old BBs and clean and fit new ones with new grease. The Park Tools web site maintenance will guide you through it. It is handy to have two cone wrenches cause you can hold one side while adjusting the other. I initially bought the single end Park Tools ones but when I need a different size I bought double ended multiple size ones (BBB I think) and they are fine for home (i.e. infrequent use).

    The only complication there may be is if your cones are damaged - if so sjs and others sell spares - or - more seriously if the cups on the hubs are damaged. If the latter you are stuffed if you can't live with it as you can't change them without changing the hubs themselves.
  • TheBigBean
    TheBigBean Posts: 21,618
    Thanks for that wishitwasallflat. It's very helpful. I have ordered some cone wrenches and will get playing.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I prefer Shimano hubs for their cup and cone service-ability. I do like tinkering though.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Just remember when setting up the hub after servicing you should have small amount of play in the axle when the locknuts are tight. The play should be small enough so when the Q/R is done up the play disappears. Doing this will prolong the life of your hubs and please do not buy any old bearings. Get grade 25 or better still grade 10, the better the grade the rounder the ball and the longer your hub will last.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    The amount of grease you use seems to be a matter of hot debate. I stuff in as much as possible to keep winter road crud out. Racing folk often use far less.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    TheBigBean wrote:
    My front hub has developed more resistance than normal when I spin it i.e. it comes to a halt much faster.

    Not a reliable measure of wear or the need to fetlle IME.

    Is it noisy?
    Does it have any play when in normal use?

    No...just ride.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    keef66 wrote:
    I prefer Shimano hubs for their cup and cone service-ability. I do like tinkering though.

    Though, for year round use sealed bearings are probably better. Cheap to buy, easy to fit and, critically, you can't ruin the wheel by neglecting to change/service them in time!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    "and, critically, you can't ruin the wheel by neglecting to change/service them in time!"

    That is a good point I'd never considered. It's also possible to trash a hub by over tightening the cones. Proper technique described by Cycleclinic above.
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    edited October 2013
    Mistaken post
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Grade 10 balls are cheap and so is grease. It take 10 minutes to strip and rebuilt a hub so it makes no sence to leave them until a problem is seen. Service while they are running smooth and they will stay smooth for longer. I see to many hubs that have been left too long.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • TheBigBean
    TheBigBean Posts: 21,618
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    Grade 10 balls are cheap and so is grease. It take 10 minutes to strip and rebuilt a hub so it makes no sence to leave them until a problem is seen. Service while they are running smooth and they will stay smooth for longer. I see to many hubs that have been left too long.

    I think it probably takes you 10 mins to strip and rebuild the hub....

    You clearly haven't factored in the following: ordering the cone wrenches, waiting for delivery, reading articles online about how to it (several times), procrastination, sudden cold weather, clean hands etc.

    However, I'll grant you, I expect next time to be a bit quicker.

Categories