Trizoid SL freehub, changing the bearings.

The Rookie

The inner bearing's is shot (one nearest the rest of the hub), anyone any idea how to change them?
Photos for referance! (email sent to sueprstar, but it's the weekend and want to get on with sorthing this!)

bikaholic

It looks similar to a Hope freehub - in which case, there will be a circlip holding that bearing in.

Edit: changing the bearings will be of a similar procedure to doing a Hope hub.

felix.london

I have the DH version of that hub and it's fooked. The freehub spins under load. Superstar are offering the new 'Gold' version for £30 (half-price) if you want an upgrade

From Neil @ SS;
"Our products undergo constant improvement on each batch to continually improve the product. We found the red freehub bearing system while simple and cheap to rebuild, was not very user friendly as it required tolerancing of the spacers to make it work perfectly. We offer this service inhouse but to be honest it’s a faff and expensive in labour. The new style gold freehubs have cartridge bearings which take seconds to replace, so anybody with basic tools can service these at home. This is a running replacement and we offer discounts (less than cost price!) for current users to upgrade to the current system out of goodwill."

Seems fair enough to me!

stubs

felix.london wrote:

I have the DH version of that hub and it's fooked. The freehub spins under load. Superstar are offering the new 'Gold' version for £30 (half-price) if you want an upgrade

From Neil @ SS;
"Our products undergo constant improvement on each batch to continually improve the product. We found the red freehub bearing system while simple and cheap to rebuild, was not very user friendly as it required tolerancing of the spacers to make it work perfectly. We offer this service inhouse but to be honest it’s a faff and expensive in labour. The new style gold freehubs have cartridge bearings which take seconds to replace, so anybody with basic tools can service these at home. This is a running replacement and we offer discounts (less than cost price!) for current users to upgrade to the current system out of goodwill."

Seems fair enough to me!

How is organised is it just a case of email them and they give you a discount code or something similar. My Trizoid freehub has got a bit sticky and been retired awaiting repair.

felix.london

I guess an email just to confirm but I was told to buy £30 worth of their 'Magic Coins'

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=40

And then copy and paste the email they sent me into the comments box when placing the order.

The Rookie

I'll see what they say, meantime anyone ever done this? I can't see a circlip and the rubbery part you can see where the lockring screws in doesn't seem to want to come out.

nicklouse

looks like there is a C clip on the outer side but as there is so much crud still there it is hard to see.

bikaholic

Circlips can be made out of metal or of plastic (like a big flat washer).

Looking at picture 3 more closely, it appears that there are two notches on the inside wall where you can insert a pointed braddle-type tool in order to prize and bend out the circlip.

The Rookie

There is some funny shape marke on the plastic/rubber, but no circlip is visable, there is certainly no metal 'above' it and it doesn't seem to want to come out to see what is behind it!

nicklouse

then it all just knocks out through there then.

The Rookie

Well that's what I tried and it doesn't seem to want to move, don't want to destroy the inner bearing as there will be no way to remove the outer race as you can't get behind it.......

nicklouse

then you will be keeping it as it is. f there is nothing on the out side retaining it then it is a press fit.

bikaholic

For the benefit of anyone else following this thread, many of the "pull off by hand" freehubs are constructed like this.

Removing the bearings is just a matter of removing the circlip(s) and wacking out the bearings (similar to removing a headset cup).

nicklouse

hope exploded view

http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/ ... loded1.pdf

one C clip.

The Rookie

Confirmed by Superstar there should be one circlip and then shove the lot out, just need to understand why the plastic/rubber shield won't/doesn't want to come out!

The Rookie

Just had confirmation from SS that the Circlip is in the bit of plastic thinky, I suspect the holes are filled with gunge, so just need to clean it out, easy when you know how!

The Rookie

Well circlip and plastic shield removed uncovering a nasty metal shielded (not rubber sealed) bearings (no wonder they failed), light tap knocked the inner of the inboard bearing clean out as it was fubar, now have to find somewhere that can remove the outer race as it's inaccesable from 'behind' so will need a puller.

nicklouse

just hit the race. there will be the gropve the balls ran in, mod the spacer befor re fitting so you can get to the outer race easier next time.

The Rookie

Well not enough groove on the outer race to get any purchase on, so it looks like I'll have to try and cut it with Mr Dremel without damaging the ally too much!

stubs

Make a groove on 2 sides with a dremel but dont go all the way through the steel then whack it with a punch and hammer. With a bit of luck you will crack the steel and it will drop out, if you try and go right through you risk damage to the alu.

The Rookie

Yeah, thats what I intended, but thanks....