Powerlink or Similar?

Lewiy
Lewiy Posts: 8
edited October 2013 in Workshop
Hi everyone

I've just purchased a 105 groupset and will be upgrading my bike this weekend but I have a question about the chain. Obviously I will be installing the 105 chain which comes with the group and this means that it doesn't have a reusable link, but rather the Shimano standard connector pin.

I've seen it mentioned that there is no issue with using a powerlink (or similar) chain connector with a 10 speed 105 chain. So the first question is, is that correct? Secondly, assuming I can use such a connector, should I use one from the start, or just carry one in case of breakages? My main concern being that I would need to be trimming the chain down an extra link to fit a connector so there's no going back once I do that (presumably).

Comments

  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    edited October 2013
    No issues using a re-usable link as long as it's for 10 speed. The only removable link I've ever had fail was around 18 years ago when the first reusables were sold and not the same design made by any of the top chain makers today. There should be no issues using one from the start and is a no-brainer if you want to remove your chain for cleaning.
  • The Real Radioactiveman
    The Real Radioactiveman Posts: 128
    sram 10 speed are locks not links

    KMC 10speed is removable
    Focus Cayo Pro
    Cotic Soul custom
    Merida Cross 4
    Planet X Dirty Disco custom cyclocross
    Tern D8 clown bike
  • jordan_217
    jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
    You can get BBB ones from Wiggle for £2.95:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bch-smartli ... connector/

    Worth buying 2-3 so you can carry one on the road, as a spare.

    I personally wouldn't use a Shimano chain as I've experienced 3 failures, 1 on a 105 and two on an Ultegra. Both resulted in rear mech, hanger, chain and spoke damage. Expensive. I use SRAM PC1051 chains, which can be bought for around £15, and come with a power link. IIRC powerlinks aren't supposed to be re-used but can be if disconnected with care. There's a tool you can buy for around £5 to do this, but long nose pliers can be used too. The BBB smart link above is designed to be split after initial fitting. I've done this several times with no issues.

    For sizing the chain this is my preferred method:

    1. Wrap the chain around the largest sprocked on the rear cassette and the largest chainring on the chainset (do not thread the chain through the rear mech).
    2. Ensure you have tension on the chain and pull the chain till it meets, make a note of where this is. ADD 2 links on to this point and that is where you should split the chain.
    3. It is worth repeating step 2 a few times as a sanity check.
    4. Split the chain using a chain tool. Keep the excess. May come in handy, in future.
    5. Fit the power/smart link as per the instructions.


    Hope this helps. I'm not trying to scare you ref the chain choice. It's a personal choice but from experience it is expensive if you experience a failure. That could happen with any chain but I've experienced it too many times to be an isolated problem.
    “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”
  • Lewiy
    Lewiy Posts: 8
    Thanks for all the advice!! I'm going to stick with the 105 chain for now, partly because I already have it, partly because its allegedly shaped to work well with the 105 chain rings and spockets and partly because I've not yet experienced any issues with Shimano chains :)

    But if I were do go ahead and use the connector pin to start with, in the event that I need to remove and refit the chain in the future for whatever reason, will this be as straight forward as popping the chain open, removing a link and replacing it with a connector to refit?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    You're going to have to cut the chain to the correct length anyway, so you might as well just join it with a KMC missing link from the start. I've been using them with Shimano chains for 6 years and they run just fine. Although you can undo them at the roadside with your fingers, I did buy a pair of the missing link pliers to make removal at home much simpler and cleaner.

    One KMC link did fall apart when I was cleaning the chain once, but I worked out I'd used it on 3 consecutive chains, so it was likely worn out anyway.

    Next chain purchases will be KMC ones, that way I get a new joining link with each. Cheaper than buying Shimano chain plus KMC link.
  • mitchgixer6
    mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    If anyone's near a Decathlon store, their own brand 10s chain connectors are actually KMC's. £4 for 2, ,much cheaper than anywhere else.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    jordan_217 wrote:

    I personally wouldn't use a Shimano chain as I've experienced 3 failures, 1 on a 105 and two on an Ultegra.

    3 failures on Shimano chains sounds to me to be very much installer errors. Pins not put in correctly.
  • jordan_217
    jordan_217 Posts: 2,580
    dennisn wrote:
    jordan_217 wrote:

    I personally wouldn't use a Shimano chain as I've experienced 3 failures, 1 on a 105 and two on an Ultegra.

    3 failures on Shimano chains sounds to me to be very much installer errors. Pins not put in correctly.

    This is exactly what it was (or so me and a mechanic thought). Note that the chains had all been supplied with the bikes. On the last occurrence, I got the shop I bought my bike from to specifically check the chain had been installed correctly and I periodically checked it too. It eventually blew up though.
    “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”

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