Tubeless

delete_my_account

I'm sure this has been asked a million times before but I keep reading conflicting information and it's confusing.

Please correct me if I get anything wrong.

1) UST is universal standard tubeless and for it to work, it needs a UST rim, UST tyre and a tubeless valve? nothing else?

2) Some UST tyres work with normal rims and some UST rims work with normal tyres with tubes or Stan's tubeless but not all combinations work properly?

3) Stan's No Tubes valve, yellow tape and sealant allow you to go tubeless without having fancy UST stuff. The whole point of the kit is that you can run any non-UST rim and tyre combination without a tube? Even really thin walled tyres which let air through... Advantages being lower pressures without pinch flats, lighter weight and punctures that fix themselves while you ride?

Thanks in advance

nicklouse

1 yes
2 ust tyres will work with all rims ust rims will work with all tyres
3 yes

delete_my_account

Thanks, I understand it better than I thought.

Are these http://www.notubes.com/Rim-Strips-C13.aspx an alternative to yellow tape and a valve?

If so, then how do you choose between the two?

coulddobetter

Haven't done it yet but considering it . From the Stans site you linked to just search for the rim you are using , online calculator then tells you what tape you need .
http://www.notubes.com/help_center_rim_strips.aspx

delete_my_account

But what's the difference between having yellow tape and a valve

or

that weird rim strip with a valve already in it?

jerryfudd

MichaelMLFC92 wrote:

But what's the difference between having yellow tape and a valve

or

that weird rim strip with a valve already in it?

Hi,

I got the ZTR flows and what confused me is that when you get thr rim's you have to remove all the existing cloth tape and re-do with the stans yellow tape which seals spoke holes - give the area a light sand to make a better adhesive surface, clean clean clean and then lay the yellow tape down REALLY REALLY tight and then fit the stans valve through the yellow tape (easiest way is to push a small circular file through so the slight abrasion round the hole makes a nice clean cut).

the 'weird rim strip' i think your talking about is a rim strip which is kind of a more retail version of ghetto tubeless converting other non-tubeless/non-stans rims to tubeless.... so not needed if you are using stans rims and tape which in my opinion is far better.

Dan

delete_my_account

I installed my yellow tape and the valve and put the tyre on. I couldn't get it to stay up without pumping such that I worked up a sweat, as air was leaking from the valve hole. On closer inspection, I could see the cut I made in the tape when the valve was in so air was probably leaking through that.

I've put another 8ish inch strip of yellow tape on top of what I put on before, over the valve hole and cut the hole really small so I had to actually push the valve through and tear it a bit more to get it in. I can't see any cuts when the valve is in any more. I put the tyre on (2-ish year-old Nobby Nic) and inflated. It goes up but is going down. Probably rideable for about a minute maybe.

I put it in a sink full of water and the vast majority of air is coming from the wall of the tyre in one inch-long area. I assume the Stan's sealant will fix this? It's not a tubeless tyre so I expected it.
Some air is coming from around the bead most of the way along. Will the goopy stuff fix this too?
Also there's a fair bit of air coming from the valve hole. Will the Stan's stuff be able to fix this? Could it be that the tape isn't airtight at some point and the air is going inside the rim and out of the valve hole? Although, none of the spokes holes appeared to be leaking.

Thanks again in advance.

jerryfudd

Hi,

You'll absolutely need the sealant.... I used just over a bottle in each tyre.

easiest way to do it I food is to lever the tyre apart from at the bottom on one side and hang the rim on a hook then poor fluid in then use levers again to lever it on at the bottom and get it to sit as close to the rims edge as possible which should get it quite tight then with the valve at the tip and still hanging up pump like mad with a floor pump and as soon as it starts registering pressure (may or may not make a pop sound) and you'll probably start hearing the hiss of air escaping swirl that fluid around by turning and shaking the rim and you'll hear the hiss stop then bring it to desired pressure.

it gets easier the more you do it and when topping up you can use the removable valve core.

Dan

delete_my_account

Cheers for the reply. I've ordered sealant but it's taking ages to come. I read on the Stan's website that you are meant to inflate without sealant to start with for some reason.

I just thought I would to see what happened. It registered pressure and went bang a few times (I assume that's the bead seating properly on the rim)?

Will the sealant stop the air coming from the valve hole? On the front the vast majority of leak is at the valve hole.

jerryfudd

yes that's the seating.

I would have thought you'd be fine around the valve, just make sure the rubber at the stem has a good tight clean fit against the strip.

as for filling after I can only imaging they want you to make the tyre seat properly in the rim completely deflate (which usually makes mine pop out the edge unless the fluid has been in awhile) and then full via the core.

site says 1 bottle per 2.0 tyre but for a first fill and on my 2.2 I added a bit more so after it's had a good slosh around the tyre I can still hear excess fluid.

Dan
Dan

delete_my_account

The valve is definitely seated in the rim all the way around. I can see the cuts in the tape when the valve is installed though. Does this mean I need another layer of tape over the top again? It's appears really difficult to not tear the tape further than is necessary.

delete_my_account

I know it's not meant to stay up without sealant but it's annoying me that it's leaking from the valve.

There are now a fair few bubbles under the yellow tape which weren't there when I applied it. I can't see how I've done that wrong. I pulled it so tight it was painful. The inside of the rim isn't flat which means the tape is stuck to the edges but isn't stuck in the groove down the middle. Don't see how I could have got it to be stuck in the middle as well though.

Have I done something wrong?

jerryfudd

just my opinion but I would although I guess the yellow strip is only for spoke holes and the sealant bonds fine to metal of the rim and the tyre I don't see why it wouldn't work there also so guess it's up to you really.

as for laying the tape and getting a clean cut I followed instructions on site and laid it as tight as possible to the point I thought I'd stretch the tape when I laid it over the lightly sanded and cleaned centre line over lapping by an inch or so from memory then use a very small circular file to pierce the tape and as the tape went through the valve hole the file just lightly cut it to exactly the right size as I ran the file round the edge and then mounted the tyre WITH inner tube at max pressure for 30 mins or so to aid the yellow tape sticking.

Dan

jerryfudd

MichaelMLFC92 wrote:

I know it's not meant to stay up without sealant but it's annoying me that it's leaking from the valve.

There are now a fair few bubbles under the yellow tape which weren't there when I applied it. I can't see how I've done that wrong. I pulled it so tight it was painful. The inside of the rim isn't flat which means the tape is stuck to the edges but isn't stuck in the groove down the middle. Don't see how I could have got it to be stuck in the middle as well though.

Have I done something wrong?

in that case I'd relay it...... as you lay it push it into a the grooves and edges with your finger tips maybe with a rag over them and then definitely mount the tyre with the inner tube as that will push it down and help it take shape.

Dan

delete_my_account

Still leaking from exactly the same place. I've put a 2 inch strip of electrician's tape over the yellow tape at the hole and it's still the same. Is the rubber on the valve meant to be in contact with the metal of the rim or bits of tape poking through the hole? Removing the pokey bits of tape will surely make it even less air tight.

I've put grease on the rubber of the valve as well because someone suggested that but to no avail. This is getting really annoying now. It's supposed to be easy.

jerryfudd

MichaelMLFC92 wrote:

Still leaking from exactly the same place. I've put a 2 inch strip of electrician's tape over the yellow tape at the hole and it's still the same. Is the rubber on the valve meant to be in contact with the metal of the rim or bits of tape poking through the hole? Removing the pokey bits of tape will surely make it even less air tight.

I've put grease on the rubber of the valve as well because someone suggested that but to no avail. This is getting really annoying now. It's supposed to be easy.

honestly i never had that much trouble - the rubber of the valve stem should be tight against the yellow tape, any inperfections in that joint is sure to cause problems.... the in my opinion you shouldnt see any steel with on the surface with or without the valve installed.

Dan

pilch

Put a tube in...

coulddobetter

Some rims need the rubber rim strip not just yellow tape . As I said before check this on the no tubes site . Yellow tape is for tubeless ready rims if yours aren't then it won't work .

Just done mavic 319 with bontrager tyres . Held 40 psi with no sealant at all overnight . That was using the rubber strip over my original rim tape.

cooldad

pilch wrote:

Put a tube in...

Potato