best allround wheels

justin_c2000
justin_c2000 Posts: 32
edited October 2013 in Road buying advice
I'm looking for the best allround wheelset for under 1500. I'm 5'7" and 118lbs and will be doing crit races, time trials and some long hilly races too. Clincher or tubular. Any suggestions?
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Comments

  • napoleond
    napoleond Posts: 5,992
    Nooooooooooooooooooo! Please save us!

    Not much help I know but.. Well...
    Insta: ATEnduranceCoaching
    ABCC Cycling Coach
  • Which category racing?
    left the forum March 2023
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    NapoleonD wrote:
    Nooooooooooooooooooo! Please save us!

    Not much help I know but.. Well...

    Look. It's our own fault. People come on here and ask, 'What's the best upgrade I can make?' and we always answer, 'Wheels and tyres'. So what do you expect?
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • Best all rounds means different things to different people. Are you racing hilly courses or flat ones. Do you mind being blown around a bit in side winds? TT wheels are different to race wheels I think rims in the 30-50mm range are good idea for racing but less than optimal for TT's.

    Your priorities will detmine the "best all round" and if you do not know what they are then those will need to worked out first.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • GGBiker
    GGBiker Posts: 450
    It doesn't matter which wheels you use, they are all the same and make no difference unless you are a pro. Buy the cheapest you can find and spend the rest on a gastric bypass to lose weight, that will make you faster up hill.
  • How do you know the OP is not a 65kg slim rider? wheels are not all the same. In a race situation aero wheels do make some difference. For training it not important. Weight also make some difference after all even for non pro's you want to do as best as you can.

    There is a thread where a poster did the maths I found a few errors but the overall result was unchanged, the difference was bigger than I thought it would be and slower riders also showed good benefits. Not what I expected but maths does not not lie. The model was a simple one though one day I will have to the sums on a more complete model but for that I will need to programme a spreadsheet to solve graphically. It takes time but I do not expect the overall result to change much.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • GGBiker wrote:
    It doesn't matter which wheels you use, they are all the same and make no difference unless you are a pro. Buy the cheapest you can find and spend the rest on a gastric bypass to lose weight, that will make you faster up hill.


    He's 118 pounds.
  • GGBiker
    GGBiker Posts: 450
    Ok, maybe an upper limb amputation, take the ears off?
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    For £1500 - get a few sets.
    Deep rims for time trialling.
    Cheaper lighter wheels for hilly stuff and crit racing. It sounds like you're new to racing - there will be crashes.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    GGBiker wrote:
    It doesn't matter which wheels you use, they are all the same.

    Not true. Some wheels will last a long, long time and will always be economically and easily repaired.

    Other wheels will not last very long at all and often can not be repaired economically or even have spare parts avaialble.

    The fact that they go round and you need to fit tyres is about the only thing that is the same.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    I prefer round wheels ... they roll more easily ;)
  • 700c
    700c Posts: 59
    To try to get this back on topic for the OP (!) - my two penneth: I picked up a discounted set of Reynolds 46 tubular earlier this year - for the price I paid you could also buy their crash warranty as well and still be under budget.
    I really like mine and do find a straight line speed advantage..

    Otherwise you could look at more aerodynamically up to date options from Reynolds themselves or perhaps mavic but they're likely to come over budget..

    Also, the two sets idea is a good one, as you don't always want to be riding carbon in the wet or on during winter with grit etc
  • dwanes
    dwanes Posts: 954
    Mavic Ksyrium Elite. And then save the rest of the money.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    dwanes wrote:
    Mavic Ksyrium Elite. And then save the rest of the money.

    As you will need it to replace said wheels in a short space of time.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • tonye_n
    tonye_n Posts: 832
    GGBiker wrote:
    It doesn't matter which wheels you use, they are all the same and make no difference unless you are a pro. Buy the cheapest you can find and spend the rest on a gastric bypass to lose weight, that will make you faster up hill.
    Lol... huge belly laugh! :D
  • dwanes
    dwanes Posts: 954
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    Mavic Ksyrium Elite. And then save the rest of the money.

    As you will need it to replace said wheels in a short space of time.

    Why?
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    dwanes wrote:
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    Mavic Ksyrium Elite. And then save the rest of the money.

    As you will need it to replace said wheels in a short space of time.

    Why?

    IME the rim wear rate can be high and the low spoke counts tend to mean short spoke life for heavy or powerful riders.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • napoleond
    napoleond Posts: 5,992
    IME though Ksyrium Elites are ace! Still prefer the custom handbuilts route though.
    Insta: ATEnduranceCoaching
    ABCC Cycling Coach
  • DesWeller wrote:
    Look. It's our own fault. People come on here and ask, 'What's the best upgrade I can make?' and we always answer, 'Wheels and tyres'. So what do you expect?

    This^^^ :¬)
    Music, beer, sport, repeat...
  • dwanes
    dwanes Posts: 954
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    Mavic Ksyrium Elite. And then save the rest of the money.

    As you will need it to replace said wheels in a short space of time.

    Why?

    IME the rim wear rate can be high and the low spoke counts tend to mean short spoke life for heavy or powerful riders.

    He has told us his Height and weight. Hardly a heavy rider.
  • chris_bass
    chris_bass Posts: 4,913
    tonye_n wrote:
    GGBiker wrote:
    It doesn't matter which wheels you use, they are all the same and make no difference unless you are a pro. Buy the cheapest you can find and spend the rest on a gastric bypass to lose weight, that will make you faster up hill.
    Lol... huge belly laugh! :D

    a gastric bypass could turn that into a smaller belly laugh!
    www.conjunctivitis.com - a site for sore eyes
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    dwanes wrote:
    He has told us his Height and weight. Hardly a heavy rider.

    Agreed, so I refer you to the first part of my statement that you conveniently chose to ignor. :wink:
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    If going carbon (and tubular), something in the region of 40-50mm to give enough aero benefit, but given the OP is a light rider, one that doesn't get pushed all over the road. Corima Aeros would be a good place to start. Cheaper? look at some Gigantex rims on generic hubs e.g. Wheelsmith / FFWD.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • dwanes
    dwanes Posts: 954
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    He has told us his Height and weight. Hardly a heavy rider.

    Agreed, so I refer you to the first part of my statement that you conveniently chose to ignor. :wink:

    I ignored it because it's a load of rubbish. :lol:
  • tonye_n
    tonye_n Posts: 832
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    smidsy wrote:
    dwanes wrote:
    Mavic Ksyrium Elite. And then save the rest of the money.

    As you will need it to replace said wheels in a short space of time.

    Why?

    IME the rim wear rate can be high and the low spoke counts tend to mean short spoke life for heavy or powerful riders.
    Tosh
    As far as everyday factory wheels go, ksyrium elites are the best bang for your bucks.
  • robbo2011
    robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    +1. I think the rim wear thing must be due to poor pad selection. I've now done over 2500km in the mountains on my Ksyrium SLS wheels using SwissStop black pads (i.e. heavy brake use) and there is no discernable wear to the rims at all. The serrated milled finish looks exactly the same as it did when they were new. At this rate the rims will be good for 25,000km at least.

    As for spoke life, time will tell but the reputation for SLs is that they last a long time.
  • Big fan of Elites. I live in up and down land and I find them marvellous for both.
    tick - tick - tick
  • Been on about these wheel before but now someone agrees with me!!

    http://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/spada-stiletto-wheelset-review.html

    Really worth a look- very underrated
  • mfin
    mfin Posts: 6,729
    Think the OP might have started this just to watch and laugh.
  • bianchiboy wrote:
    Been on about these wheel before but now someone agrees with me!!

    http://roadcyclinguk.com/gear/spada-stiletto-wheelset-review.html

    Really worth a look- very underrated

    Bianchiboy, I had a look at your posts, not many , but 2/3rds of them link to the Spada Stiletto. I appreciate your enthusiasm and I am not explicitly saying anything, but maybe next time add a photo of yours instead of some on the web, so we can all admire them... :wink:
    left the forum March 2023