TCR advanced cable routing.he'll
leonlikestrees
Posts: 528
Hi all,
I've just bought a tcr advanced frame (2013), and am building up. I have two.questions for people with tcr advanced experience :
1. I've got a lot of excess liner for gears. Should I trim and let it just fit into the bb guide? Or should it be joined like a gore set somehow?
2. Of the liners, the right hand cable guide isn't a good fit into the headtube socket, it won't push in snug. Would you expect to clean the frame out (how?), or should I Just sand a bit off the cable guide?
Thanks,
Leon
I've just bought a tcr advanced frame (2013), and am building up. I have two.questions for people with tcr advanced experience :
1. I've got a lot of excess liner for gears. Should I trim and let it just fit into the bb guide? Or should it be joined like a gore set somehow?
2. Of the liners, the right hand cable guide isn't a good fit into the headtube socket, it won't push in snug. Would you expect to clean the frame out (how?), or should I Just sand a bit off the cable guide?
Thanks,
Leon
0
Comments
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I had major issues with recabling a 2012 TCR Advanced SL frame. I took out the stock cables and liners and replaced with Gore, only to find that I crossed them in the downtube. It took me a week of scratching my head and trying to work out why the Rear Derailleur went out of alignment when swapping between the big chainring and the small chainring. So, whatever you do, make sure the liners are not crossed in the downtube. I used metal hangers straightened out through each head tube port, and then taped the liners to them to categorically ensure they weren't crossed.
As for your questions:
1. I used liners full length in the frame, allowing them to sit in the BB guide. I cut the rear liner about 2cm short of the port opening on the rear chainstay by feeding it through, marking the exit, and then cutting it back. This leaves a tiny bit of cable witout a liner but that's obviously fine. For the front Derailleur I ran the liner through the BB guide and stopped it about 3cm from the mech. I used Gore rubber boots to seal the ends. As above, ensure liners don't get crossed.
2. If the alloy housing stop/lug doesnt fit in the frame I'd very lightly (and carefully) sand the inside of the hole in the frame - could just be a bit of extra resin that's been left there. It;'s probably unlikely that its the housing stop/lug, but you should check one side against the other, and sand if absolutely neccessary. Also check the liner end - If it's the liner end inside the housing stop you could just trim the housing end slightly. If you're suggesting there is an issue inside the frame then that's another story altogether.
By the way, when set up properly, full internal lining works fine - I've done 3000km on mine and shifting is very precise.0 -
Thanks Ginger beer.
I made my first mistake already last night - I pressed in the BB before fitting the cable liners, so it's really tricky to get access. It was such a PITA to get the liners down that I'm a bit reluctant to pull them out again.
I suppose if I leave one in, and hold it under tension, then I should be able to get the other down without crossing over.
For the metal hangers, you just mean coat hangers straightened out?
Finally, on the issue with the stop, it just doesn't push in flush at the moment. THe problem is definitely on the frame, not the guide, but the guide is the cheaper part to replace if it all goes wrong..0 -
Uurrggg I just recabled my sl today, nightmare. Not a patch on trying to get a used cable through a sram red front shifter though. :-(Cervelo R3
Giant TCR SL
Ibis Tranny0 -
1: The liner for the front gears will usually stick out from the BB shell and will (most of the time), stop just short of the front derailleur. The rear gear liners will usually overlap when you get to the rear chainstay. I usually just trim the one that enters from the rear derailleur hole as it's easier to remove/trim multiple times.
2: For the plug that fits into the headtube, if you connect the cable up to the corresponding derailleur, and then hold the mech in place with your hand while shifting up, the tension on the cable should pull the plug into the stop of the frame. - That or stick a 5/6mm allen key into the plug and tap with a rubber mallet.
I have re-cabled many of these bikes and the tricky bit is getting the liners fed through, if you've already done that, your over the mountain and on to the home stretch.0 -
Leon
Did you get it all sorted in the end?
Andy0 -
Sort of... I was waiting for it to stop raining to ride the bike before reporting back.
I've got the cable liners through ok. The liner cap has gone in ok in the end, although still a mm or so to go before it's snug, but now I'm not so happy with the way the gear outer interferes with the front brake cable. It feels like it cou,d affect the handling even, but i'll see when I ride it. Not very happy with where I positioned the inline cable adjusters either, but a bit late now...
I'm using a jagwire racer cable set, and the cables seem very stiff, so not tolerant of less than perfect routing.
Also, rear brake is s little mushy. Not terrrible, but worse than the same cable on my old frame. worried I may have pinched the liner, but I really dont want to rethread that inner as it took ages last time, so I will live with it.0