cassette removal tool: with or without centre pin?

dubcat

Cassette removal tools seem to come in two flavours, centrelock and pin types. What do I use when? I have no idea which one to buy for my Bianchi Infinito with Shimano gearing.

nicklouse

Any of your bikes got solid axels?

dubcat

Erm how would I know? I only own the two bikes in my signature.

rolf_f

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to look at the axles of your bicycles and see if you can work it out!

With the pin is much better if you have hollow axles - it stops the tool dropping out when you are fumbling around with the chainwhip etc!

dubcat

Lol ok thanks It has a qr skewer so I guess it's hollow. But can't I just use the qr skewer to hold the pinless version on?

arlowood

Dubcat wrote:

Lol ok thanks It has a qr skewer so I guess it's hollow. But can't I just use the qr skewer to hold the pinless version on?

Might be a bit awkward but in theory it could work - don't forget - with the wheel off the bike you won't have the dropouts to tighten the QR against so you would have to mackle something together with washers or the like.

My objection would be that you are then relying on using an open-ended spanner on the tool to apply the loosening force. Some lockrings can take a fair degree of persuasion to remove and with an open ender there is always the danger of the spanner slipping.

My advice would be to go for the centre pin version - like this:-

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ice ... e-ec006783

The advantage is that pin provides a locating function to steady the tool in operation. Also the one shown above has the additional benefit that, as well as the external flats for the use of a spanner, it has an internal squared profile that will accept the head of a 1/4" socket drive bar. IMO opinion the use of a socket bar is much safer and also allows you to exert more force when dealing with a recalcitrant lockring.

I have used this type on many occasions with a socket bar and never had any problems.

dubcat

Awesome info!!! Thanks

slowbike

I've got the pinless tool - I just use a socket on it ... as has been said - open ended spanners can drop off ...
With the socket I can put a long handle on it and use the lever to apply gentle/even force.

paultheparaglider

arlowood wrote:

My advice would be to go for the centre pin version - like this:-

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ice ... e-ec006783

The advantage is that pin provides a locating function to steady the tool in operation. Also the one shown above has the additional benefit that, as well as the external flats for the use of a spanner, it has an internal squared profile that will accept the head of a 1/4" socket drive bar. IMO opinion the use of a socket bar is much safer and also allows you to exert more force when dealing with a recalcitrant lockring.

+1. I have the same one and it works well. Mine is 3/8 drive though.

t4tomo

I have pinless but it is very easy to secure with the QR skewer so stop any spanner slippage - the QR doesn't need or want to be mega tight . That said that pinned one looks a good idea.

I just use a big adjustable spanner, but if you have something that is really tight - I had an old freewheel I needed to get off an old MTB, then clamping the tool (held by QR) in the vice and turning the wheel by gripping the tyre is the way to go.