Avid bb5 brakes

Toe knee
Toe knee Posts: 525
edited September 2013 in MTB beginners
Hi all,

Totally new to disc brakes, so be gentle on me, anyway I bought a kona dew fs 2009 not long ago, went out yesterday on it for a second ride, and when I pulled the rear brake, it wouldn't stop me, and just kept going, any ideas on a fix for this please, as I say I am new to this type of brakes.

Thanks very much

Tony.

Comments

  • Barteos
    Barteos Posts: 657
    The best thing you can do is to sell them and to get BB7s instead. They have larger pads and much better adjustment. Seriously.
  • ant.rocket
    ant.rocket Posts: 25
    Nothing wrong with bb5s, had them on my bike for years. Go to the sram website for the technical documents. That will tell you all you need to know.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Have you sprayed WD 40 or something near the back wheel?
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  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    Barteos wrote:
    The best thing you can do is to sell them and to get BB7s instead. They have larger pads and much better adjustment. Seriously.


    not really any better TBH

    did they used to stop you?
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  • Toe knee
    Toe knee Posts: 525
    Hi,

    No wd. 40 near them no, and yes they worked when I first got the bike ( not great ), could it be as simple as changing the pads ?

    Thanks
    Tony.
  • Barteos
    Barteos Posts: 657
    POAH wrote:
    Barteos wrote:
    The best thing you can do is to sell them and to get BB7s instead. They have larger pads and much better adjustment. Seriously.


    not really any better TBH

    did they used to stop you?

    Yes, they are better. As I said before BB7s use larger pads (the same as Avid Juicy series) and having two adjustment knobs instead one makes all the difference when it comes to adjustment and pad wear compensation - click or two on each side instead of repositioning the entire caliper.

    Properly adjusted BB7s with full length Ripcord or similar compressionless casing should offer powerful and controlled one finger braking. At least that's how they work on my bike.
  • Ouija
    Ouija Posts: 1,386
    First thing i would do is to simply check to see if you've got the spoke side pad as close to the rotor as possible. As they wear down, the rotor has to be flexed more to make contact with the pad and some of the pressure being applied at the lever gets lost in simply bending the rotor in the first place so less actually ends up as actual braking force. Use the big red knob on the spoke side to get the pad as close to the rotor as possible (maybe even rub against it slightly) and see if that makes a difference. If not, then it'll be down to something like contamination, worn pads or rotor etc.
  • Toe knee
    Toe knee Posts: 525
    Thanks ouija,

    Been trying to move that red knob all day , and it won't budge, thanks for the advice, will have another go tommorow.


    Thanks

    Tony.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Use a T25 bit to turn it, easier than getting your hand in there.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • ant.rocket
    ant.rocket Posts: 25
    I removed the red knob on mine recently with a T25 and cleaned it all up inside and put smear of grease on the threads and it screws in and out nice now. Just a smear mind, don't want grease anywhere near the pads!
  • Giraffoto
    Giraffoto Posts: 2,078
    Not much wrong with the BB5 if it's working properly - it's the constant adjusting between rides that got to me eventually. Anyway, before you get a set of Shimano M615s . . .

    Check that the cable is tight at the caliper end - that is, that it's clamped tightly in place and there's no slack in it.
    Check that your brake cable is intact between the lever and caliper.
    Check that something moves at the caliper when you pull the brake lever.
    Check that the movement at the caliper also translates into the outboard pad moving inwards.
    Check that both pads are there and have plenty of friction material on them.
    Check that the caliper is centred on the disk (see the owners' manual for this)
    Check that the inboard pad skims the disk when you wind it in by two clicks (see the owners' manual for this)
    Check that the outboard pad does the same.

    If all of the above are fine and the braking is still deficient, thoroughly clean the pads and disks and try again. If that fails, Merlin have some excellent deals on brake sets
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  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Toe knee wrote:
    yesterday on it for a second ride
    Ouija wrote:
    As they wear down...
    Probably not pad wear after one ride.

    I'd guess the cable has slipped through the bolt on the calliper. Does the pad make proper contact with the disc when the lever is pulled? How does it compare with the front brake?
    Probably worth mentioning that it's worth getting used to using the front brake, it's the one that will slow you down when you really need it.
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