Struggling to centre rear disc...
desmorrow
Posts: 115
Hi,
Boardman team FS. Rear disc rubbing pads so tried to re-centre it. However, the disc is too close to the caliper on the far side. Even when I loosen the bolts on the caliper and push it as far away from the disc as possible, it only gives about 1 mm space on one side but heaps on the other side. And that's with well worn pads. If I put new pads in, i don't think it would be possible to get the pad in on the far side. The piston on the far side is fine, it goes right back but as I say, when you insert the disc, it's far to close to that side.
Is there any other way of adjusting the clearance apart from the caliper bolts?
Boardman team FS. Rear disc rubbing pads so tried to re-centre it. However, the disc is too close to the caliper on the far side. Even when I loosen the bolts on the caliper and push it as far away from the disc as possible, it only gives about 1 mm space on one side but heaps on the other side. And that's with well worn pads. If I put new pads in, i don't think it would be possible to get the pad in on the far side. The piston on the far side is fine, it goes right back but as I say, when you insert the disc, it's far to close to that side.
Is there any other way of adjusting the clearance apart from the caliper bolts?
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Comments
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Photo would help, if you are using an IS adaptor you can space it in towards the wheel, but 'far side' isn't a recogniseable bike description for me so no idea if it helps or not.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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sorry, when I say 'far side' I mean wheel side. So there a kind of adapter on the caliper that is held by the 2 bolts. It allows you to adjust by a few mm I guess. But no matter where the 'adapter' sits the disc sits too close to the caliper on the wheel side.0
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Pictures would probably help here....0
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and make of brakes."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
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If the pads are well worn, it must have been ok at some point, so what else have you done?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
elixer 3.
- cooldad - yes, they were fine and it seems to have gradually happened as the pads have worn. All I've ever really done is repair flats and change tyres on the rear. I recently had to adjust the cones but the pad problem was there before that.
As I say, at the minute it's annoying rubbing so the bike is functional but just not 100%. The pack the rotor out option - would that work with elixer 3s?0 -
Undo caliper bolts. Grab rear brake and whilst doing this retighten caliper bolts . That is avid procedure .0
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I think you missed the initial post.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cobba wrote:
Had a look at the disc again and I this this would work. It's basically a space that sits behind the rotor? It should push the rotor out a couple of mm, the hopefully centre it.
However, it definitely was this bad 6 months ago so wonder why it's changed so much....0 -
If the pads are well worn they may need replacing. In my elixir 3's when the pads get too low the pistons don't work evenly and then attempting to realign the caliper causes the caliper to be miscentred.0
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You centre the calliper body over the disc not the pads. if the pads are unevenly worn you may have a sticky piston, so fix that first.
That photo?
The adapter that will usuaully be between the caliper and frame can be spaced inwards towards the wheel using spacer washers.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
