Hub rebuild Q

spearmint_wino
spearmint_wino Posts: 109
edited September 2013 in Workshop
Bought a cheap rear wheel from Ebay to use on the turbo. No pic in the listing, it's arrived stripped back to the hub body and freewheel i.e. no axle(?) bearings or cones.

To top it off there are no identifying marks of any kind on the hub body - it is just plain black (rim is a mavic cxp22). How likely is it I'll be able to get the right parts to make it usable without knowing these details?

Comments

  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 52,330
    A. Was it listed without the axle ?
    B. Have you asked the seller if he/she knows what hub it is?
    C. Have you got a picture?
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    If it's standard cup and cone, then most use standard size bearings, spindles and cones
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 52,330
    Monty Dog wrote:
    If it's standard cup and cone, then most use standard size bearings, spindles and cones

    IF... If we had bread, we would have bread and butter if we had butter.

    Come on Monty Dog, this could be a really exciting 'Guess the hub thread' and you gone and piddled on it.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • spearmint_wino
    spearmint_wino Posts: 109
    Some answers:

    A) no, the listing info was very sparse. No pic, not much beyond 'mavic wheel, good condition'. I took a punt on what could have been a 'bargain'...

    B) I have, but from their profile and items for sale they didn't seem very 'bike' at all and I doubt they'd have a clue. We'll see.

    C) Yes, here:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/wws4239x5ah8xnm/hub1.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ju8y2w4c454kz4/hub2.jpg
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    Looks like a lower end Shimano or Shimano clone because the rear hub bearing is outboard - located in the freehub rather than the hub itself. I reckon standard Shimano axle, cones and balls would fit.
  • me-109
    me-109 Posts: 1,915
    If you bought some more 'broken' wheels you could then build a 'decent' one. Then come back on here and tell us all what a good deal/experience it was. ;-)
  • spearmint_wino
    spearmint_wino Posts: 109
    I didn't say it was 'broken', just incomplete for my needs. Don't remember saying it was a 'bad' experience either, you sure you've replied to the right thread? :lol:
  • rfretwell
    rfretwell Posts: 30
    Mercia Man wrote:
    Looks like a lower end Shimano or Shimano clone because the rear hub bearing is outboard - located in the freehub rather than the hub itself. I reckon standard Shimano axle, cones and balls would fit.

    Further enlightenment needed here; my limited reading tells me that having the r.h. bearing in the freehub as opposed to in the hub WAS A GOOD THING i.e. all the rotating bits are between the two bearings so no lever-moment between bearing and sprocket.

    Does your saying 'lower end Shimano' imply that it's NOT THE BEST THING?
  • pinno
    pinno Posts: 52,330
    rfretwell wrote:
    Mercia Man wrote:
    Looks like a lower end Shimano or Shimano clone because the rear hub bearing is outboard - located in the freehub rather than the hub itself. I reckon standard Shimano axle, cones and balls would fit.

    Further enlightenment needed here; my limited reading tells me that having the r.h. bearing in the freehub as opposed to in the hub WAS A GOOD THING i.e. all the rotating bits are between the two bearings so no lever-moment between bearing and sprocket.

    Does your saying 'lower end Shimano' imply that it's NOT THE BEST THING?

    Easy tiger - there's BB for that sort of CAPITAL LETTER STUFF.
    seanoconn - gruagach craic!
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    rfretwell wrote:
    Mercia Man wrote:
    Looks like a lower end Shimano or Shimano clone because the rear hub bearing is outboard - located in the freehub rather than the hub itself. I reckon standard Shimano axle, cones and balls would fit.

    Further enlightenment needed here; my limited reading tells me that having the r.h. bearing in the freehub as opposed to in the hub WAS A GOOD THING i.e. all the rotating bits are between the two bearings so no lever-moment between bearing and sprocket.

    Does your saying 'lower end Shimano' imply that it's NOT THE BEST THING?

    I'm not implying anything, just saying it looks like 105 or below in the Shimano hierarchy. It's not a Dura Ace top end hub but it does look like possibly a black painted 105 hub with steel freehub - lower end but still good. As it doesn't actually say Shimano on it, it could well be a clone. Having the right hand bearing in the freehub is a good thing because you don't have a long bit of unsupported axle sticking out. Shimano's introduction of this design more than 20 years ago largely eradicated the problem of broken axles. And it also makes it easier to access the bearing. If you are willing and able to service a traditional cup and cone hub like this (still produced by Shimano and Campag) you will probably get a longer life out of it than a cartridge bearing hub with its smaller and fewer ball bearings. Your rear wheel cup, however, does look a bit worn but is still perfectly usable.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    If the listing was for a wheel in good condition open a ebay case. The buyer may refuse a refund so escalate it. Ebay will side with you if the wheel was sold as good condition. I know how ebay work I sell alot on there and that kind of listing should be removed.

    Use the funds returned to by a wheel that is complete as your bargin after a axle, cones, bearing and freehub is less of a bargin now.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.

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