Front Derailleur Pulling away from Carbon Frame !

stussy_daz

I have a Ribble R872 which is my pride and joy

Thought as im not much cop with services would take bike to the highest quality bike shop in and around plymouth (http://rockets-rascals.myshopify.com ) they serviced bike but when they did they told me that the main reason I was having trouble changing from big cog to small was the front mech had popped one of its pot / pop rivets, so they re revited it and told me be ok two gear changes it popped again so they then used another new rivet and araldite glue under the mech which I thought had done the job but after 3rd ride this morning on way to work I noticed that when changing down under pressure it is begin to pull away again.

Is this something you have seen before ? can you advise what can be done ?

I emailed ribble this morning asking there advice but thought would ask in here if anybody has any ideas ?



I have added pic to show where about’s it pulls away

many thanks for any replies / advice

Daz

sungod

if the frame was under warranty, the first step should've been contact ribble, having someone else touch it, no matter how reputable, will probably invalidate any warranty

sounds like the cf around the rivet has failed, so a new rivet has nothing to hold

assuming ribble say "nope", get the shop to remove the mount and fit a band-on one, or contact a cf repair specialist

keef66

I'm not sure I'd want a band-on clamped round a CF tube which hasn't been designed for it...

On the other hand, it might be your only option if they can't effect a repair with rivets and epoxy.

Monty Dog

If the rivet is undersize, it will simply pull through. There are better grades of epoxy too - Araldite is very brittle. Drilling the rivets/remove the bracket and fitting a clamp on is OK, provided the frame tube is round / right diameter for a clamp.

CRAIGO5000

This has just happened to my Ribble Stealth too (same frame, different name).
Mine is built with Sram Force and is about 4 years old but with only 5000 miles on it as I have other bikes.

What did Ribble do in the end? I've a feeling they will do nothing with mine and my only option will be to drill out the existing rivets, remove the braze on and retrofit a clamp on derailliuer and try not to crush the frame which is probably not designed to withstand the clamping force of that type of derailliuer.

Thanks

paulbnix

I have a Planet X Pro Carbon frame that is designed for a clamp on FD.
The recommended torque is 3.5 Nm ie. not much.
At that torque the FD does not move.

derbygrimpeur

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19699811#p19699811]CRAIGO5000[/url] wrote:

This has just happened to my Ribble Stealth too (same frame, different name).
Mine is built with Sram Force and is about 4 years old but with only 5000 miles on it as I have other bikes.

What did Ribble do in the end? I've a feeling they will do nothing with mine and my only option will be to drill out the existing rivets, remove the braze on and retrofit a clamp on derailliuer and try not to crush the frame which is probably not designed to withstand the clamping force of that type of derailliuer.

Thanks

same thing has just happened to my Stealth. Bought in April 2012 and done about 4,500 miles (winter/commute bike takes the most mileage). Have you contacted Ribble? I just gave them a call and he said that it could be re-riveted and that they've done this before. I'm not local but he said that I could take the bike to my LBS and they could call Ribble who could confirm best approach for sorting it.

CRAIGO5000

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19707604#p19707604]derbygrimpeur[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19699811#p19699811]CRAIGO5000[/url] wrote:

This has just happened to my Ribble Stealth too (same frame, different name).
Mine is built with Sram Force and is about 4 years old but with only 5000 miles on it as I have other bikes.

What did Ribble do in the end? I've a feeling they will do nothing with mine and my only option will be to drill out the existing rivets, remove the braze on and retrofit a clamp on derailliuer and try not to crush the frame which is probably not designed to withstand the clamping force of that type of derailliuer.

Thanks

same thing has just happened to my Stealth. Bought in April 2012 and done about 4,500 miles (winter/commute bike takes the most mileage). Have you contacted Ribble? I just gave them a call and he said that it could be re-riveted and that they've done this before. I'm not local but he said that I could take the bike to my LBS and they could call Ribble who could confirm best approach for sorting it.

I can talk you exactly through this and you can fix it in a much better way than was probably installed by them in the first place!

You'll need a rivet gun, some rivets (I can let you know the exact size required), some degreasing wipes, sandpaper and araldite resin epoxy.

Let me know if you are DIYing and I'll talk you through it with pics. I fixed mine in around 30 mins.

I'm offering my help as Ribble weren't bothered and the best they could offer me was to send it in for an evaluation to see how much it would cost me to have them fix it. Fair enough in the eyes of some, but it's not the "above and beyond" approach that I expect from retailers nowadays and thus I won't be buying my next bike from them.

derbygrimpeur

cheers for that & your offer. Shame about your experience as Ribble were pretty helpful when I spoke to them.

I'm probably going to let me LBS do it as I have another job I want them to do before the Stealth hibernates for winter

fudgey

If the manufacturer or lbs wont sort it, whip the BB out, and either shape some alloy plate to the curve of the seat tube and drill holes that are the required size/distance apart fro the mech, then slide it up the tube and rived though the mech/tupe/plate

or just use some washers on the inside of the seat tube to rivet through.

mattyboy199

that's a terrible design, rivets are aluminum or alloy. This is worse than using aluminum bolt to bolt the braze on. You'd be better off taping any washers, plates or even us a nut to get round this. Easiest option is the clamp, you could use a copper pipe or similar to maintain the structural integrity of the carbon tube to avoid over tightening it (of the right diameter).

bus_ter

So my Ribble has also had a Rivet fail (the gear cable stop on the chainstay). I've emailed Ribble and waiting for a reply. What happened with the original poster? Did you get it fixed?