ROAD BIKE PROJECT: BSA Frame - Is it worth it?
Afternoon ladies and gents,
I've come into possession of an old BSA Road Bike frame, that used to be my dads, and have had a thought of perhaps working on it to get it up to riding standards again. I just want to know if you guys think it would be worth it?
I'm new to actually carrying out mechanical work on bikes so it could be an interesting project for me, and at least I'll learn a long the way. It might even work out to be a pretty decent winter training bike too if I can get it to a decent condition. If it is worth the work, then if anyone can recommend places to purchase parts from, I could perhaps turn this thread into an ongoing 'show how' project, which could prove useful if anyone else is thinking of doing the same? (I've not had a proper look on the forum yet if there's something like this already, so apologies).
I've attached images below of how it looks right now. As you can see there's a lot that needs to be done to it, but just thought I'd find out from people who may have done this before, before I run in head first without much of an idea.
Cheers!
(PS, excuse the state our garden is in. We're moving soon and it's entered a bit of neglect)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rxpvn078fgo8l ... 7%2045.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ax3uxs4sl3844 ... 7%2059.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0870atkas218x ... 8%2005.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yhroucsrktwgz ... 8%2014.jpg
I've come into possession of an old BSA Road Bike frame, that used to be my dads, and have had a thought of perhaps working on it to get it up to riding standards again. I just want to know if you guys think it would be worth it?
I'm new to actually carrying out mechanical work on bikes so it could be an interesting project for me, and at least I'll learn a long the way. It might even work out to be a pretty decent winter training bike too if I can get it to a decent condition. If it is worth the work, then if anyone can recommend places to purchase parts from, I could perhaps turn this thread into an ongoing 'show how' project, which could prove useful if anyone else is thinking of doing the same? (I've not had a proper look on the forum yet if there's something like this already, so apologies).
I've attached images below of how it looks right now. As you can see there's a lot that needs to be done to it, but just thought I'd find out from people who may have done this before, before I run in head first without much of an idea.
Cheers!
(PS, excuse the state our garden is in. We're moving soon and it's entered a bit of neglect)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rxpvn078fgo8l ... 7%2045.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ax3uxs4sl3844 ... 7%2059.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0870atkas218x ... 8%2005.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yhroucsrktwgz ... 8%2014.jpg
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Comments
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Not anything of any value beyond transport but it looks in potentially nice condition - you shouldn't necessarily need much in the way of parts. Strip, thorough clean and regrease mainly. A great way to learn about bike maintenance. New chain, brake blocks and tyres - wheels from Ebay if the originals are dead but it looks better than a bike that I renovated that needed no parts at all.Faster than a tent.......0
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Thanks for the reply Rolf. Yeah I just thought of having it as a bike to take out during the colder months, it's heavier than my Specialized. I'm also not familiar with the gearing setup on there, so would changing it to a standard gearing setup (or at least what is being used on road bikes today) be worth the hassle too?
How much did your project set you back out of interest?0 -
I recently did an old Raleigh in worse nick than yours for my Godson. It needed new wheels, new brake blocks, new cables, new outers, new tyres and new bar tape. 100 quid the lot of which about 75 quid was the wheels with a new freewheel/cassette. (I admittedly had bar tape, brake blocks and tyres already so didn't include those in the costings).
Once you start buying components you can quickly rack up a lot of money so keep an eye on it.
Owen0 -
Palmer291 wrote:Thanks for the reply Rolf. Yeah I just thought of having it as a bike to take out during the colder months, it's heavier than my Specialized. I'm also not familiar with the gearing setup on there, so would changing it to a standard gearing setup (or at least what is being used on road bikes today) be worth the hassle too?
How much did your project set you back out of interest?
No point IMO trying to modernise an old bike. If you can handle the gear ratios for where you live then a modern setup will just cost money to buy and maintain and not offer much practical benefit.
I renovated a few bikes - my old touring bike, a mates Peugeot from 1990 and another mates Carlton from 1980 (this was the bike I was referring to). The Carlton was dirty as hell but the only purchases were brake pads (though the originals were still soft), tyres (again, the ones it had were OK and not so old but the owner got sold some horrible modern overweight Schwalbes Marathons unfortunately) cables and bar tape. In the case of the Peugeot, the tyres and chain (irrc) needed replacing plus the headset as the fork race was cracked (I suspect it may have been cracked from new!). So probably less than £50 a time - and most of that normal consumables.
For a winter bike I'd also budget another £25 for a set of SKS full mudguards - the frame has the mounting eyes for them and they will make life much nicer in the rain!
As Owenlars says, the only significant cost is likely to be the wheels but £25 each plus £25 for the cassette is a fairly realistic target. Nice, cheapish wheels that would work with that bike are readily available on Ebay.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Rolf F wrote:No point IMO trying to modernise an old bike. If you can handle the gear ratios for where you live then a modern setup will just cost money to buy and maintain and not offer much practical benefit.
I renovated a few bikes - my old touring bike, a mates Peugeot from 1990 and another mates Carlton from 1980 (this was the bike I was referring to). The Carlton was dirty as hell but the only purchases were brake pads (though the originals were still soft), tyres (again, the ones it had were OK and not so old but the owner got sold some horrible modern overweight Schwalbes Marathons unfortunately) cables and bar tape. In the case of the Peugeot, the tyres and chain (irrc) needed replacing plus the headset as the fork race was cracked (I suspect it may have been cracked from new!). So probably less than £50 a time - and most of that normal consumables.
For a winter bike I'd also budget another £25 for a set of SKS full mudguards - the frame has the mounting eyes for them and they will make life much nicer in the rain!
As Owenlars says, the only significant cost is likely to be the wheels but £25 each plus £25 for the cassette is a fairly realistic target. Nice, cheapish wheels that would work with that bike are readily available on Ebay.
So you don't think upgrading it to a modern gear set would be ideal? With shifters on the handle bars rather than the down tube? I'm not used to shifting from the down tube so I could see myself falling off trying to concerntrate on shifting up or down via that menthod haha!0 -
Palmer291 wrote:So you don't think upgrading it to a modern gear set would be ideal? With shifters on the handle bars rather than the down tube? I'm not used to shifting from the down tube so I could see myself falling off trying to concerntrate on shifting up or down via that menthod haha!
Not worth it. It will cost more to do that than you'd pay by selling the BSA and buying a new (second hand) bike with all that stuff on it already. You'd probably need to have the rear dropouts widened to fit an 8 speed up cassette that would be compatible with the shifters. I think you'd need new mechs, chainset and possibly brakes as well. It can be worth doing if you find a new old stock high quality frame but on your BSA it just doesn't make sense. As for the DT shifters - they are mechanically simple and if you stick to friction shift (rather than indexed) then the only adjustment you need to get right is the limit screws. DT shifters are really nice to use once you get the hang of them and I don't recall people falling off because of them when I was growing up with them! DT shifters don't seem to have been a problem to your dad either so I'm sure you'll manage!Faster than a tent.......0 -
Rolf F wrote:Not worth it. It will cost more to do that than you'd pay by selling the BSA and buying a new (second hand) bike with all that stuff on it already. You'd probably need to have the rear dropouts widened to fit an 8 speed up cassette that would be compatible with the shifters. I think you'd need new mechs, chainset and possibly brakes as well. It can be worth doing if you find a new old stock high quality frame but on your BSA it just doesn't make sense. As for the DT shifters - they are mechanically simple and if you stick to friction shift (rather than indexed) then the only adjustment you need to get right is the limit screws. DT shifters are really nice to use once you get the hang of them and I don't recall people falling off because of them when I was growing up with them! DT shifters don't seem to have been a problem to your dad either so I'm sure you'll manage!
Okay, mind made up then. I'm sticking with DT shifters (although I'll naturally upgrade them I think as these are a little rusty in places and of course the cables need to be changed).
Off the top of my head looking at the work it needs, I'd guess it'll be:-
- New front & rear derailleurs
- New rear cassette
- New brakes
- New brake levers
- Chain/chain ring/crank arm/pedals
I think... And of course wheels/tyres0 -
Nope - leave it all as it is, really, really good clean with Jizer/A.N.Other and then car war wash, good polish, brake pads, cables, tyres, job jobbed.
Be done in one full day.
No need for new brakes/levers etc as these will just push the cost up. If derailleurs work then leave be - its amazing what a really good degrease and clean/lube does to them.
New pedals if you want but leave everything else - its not classic enough to be worth spending the money the on but cool enough to put a bit of effort in.0 -
Palmer291 wrote:Off the top of my head looking at the work it needs, I'd guess it'll be:
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- New front & rear derailleurs -
-New rear cassette - Nope
-New brakes - Nope
-New brake levers - Nope
-Chain/chain ring/crank arm/pedals - Nope
I think... And of course wheels/tyres
Of course, it's your bike and your call but unless something doesn't work, replacing those parts is just wasting money; and that bike doesn't look used enough for anything to be actually worn out. And it's probably wasting money even if they don't work as all that stuff is that simple that, as Yossie says, usually a clean is all that's needed to get things back up and running. And new parts won't make the bike any quicker - all they'll do is make it look crapper!
Aside from the wheels (assuming they aren't photographed because they are gone or properly dead) the only thing I can see that definitely needs buying are a pair of brake hoods (non aero type) - which can be had for a few quid off Ebay. Even the bar tape might be OK at a push (the old stuff is tougher than modern tape). I wouldn't even replace the chain - those things last forever. Chances are it just needs a bit of oil, any stiff links waggled free and then to be used. The Carlton I renovated had I think exactly the same chainset - nothing wrong with it at all. If the BB bearings sound rough, just sling some gearbox oil down the seat tube and don't park it on a white carpet for a few months.
Rusty stuff can be dealt with by metal polish and a rust remedy paint that blackens and coats any rust you haven't removed.
If you want to buy lots of components your best bet is to find a stripped frame off Ebay rather than stripping something that is perfectly fine as it is.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Plus if it has one of those plasticky coatings on the frame like my Raleigh had then a bit of wire wool with some WD40 and a gentle rub down brings it up loverly!
I agree with everything said above; a really good clean a dollop of grease and some gentle persuasion works wonders with things like derailleurs.0 -
Haha brilliant, just had a good laugh reading through that section you quoted...
"Nope, nope, nope, nope".
My thinking was because it's been outside for a while that it's been subject to the weather and just won't be working correctly. Glad I didn't jump straight in. The chain links are broken in places and it's very rusty so that's something I definitely will change, but judging by what you've all said, it's only that that I'll be changing.
I still have the wheels, and I'll post a couple photos of them on here in a second. From what you guys are saying though, if I get her cleaned up and rebuilt, give her a test ride, I should then see how things are running. Heck I could have all this done by tomorrow to be honest!
UPDATE
Right okay, here's what I'm working with wheel wise. They don't look too bad to me. Rear cassette is heavily rusted, so could do with some gunk on that. There's a few sections where the bike has spots of rust but should easily be able to eradicate that. One of the clasps for the quick release on the front tyre has sheared too!
WHEELS - https://www.dropbox.com/s/6bjoyiokume0l ... 2%2039.jpg
REAR CASSETTE - https://www.dropbox.com/s/mm8scd654p5q1 ... 2%2049.jpg
QUICK RELEASE - https://www.dropbox.com/s/j7v7f8qhnxi05 ... 4%2004.jpg
The joint on the headset seems very rusted too - https://www.dropbox.com/s/ngvbupw60l6in ... 6%2037.jpg
And here is how things are looking with the components. This is just as they were on the bike, I've just taken them off for cleaning.
REAR DERAILLEUR - https://www.dropbox.com/s/3585azkz0lub4 ... 4%2007.jpg
FRONT DERAILLEUR - https://www.dropbox.com/s/wpperzsgssy9m ... 4%2016.jpg
SHIFTERS - https://www.dropbox.com/s/4snugsysaq7b3 ... 5%2002.jpg
BRAKES/MUD GUARDS - https://www.dropbox.com/s/k7r14y9d7iuj6 ... 5%2014.jpg
Looking at the brake pads, they also don't seem to be in too bad of a state on closer inspection! - https://www.dropbox.com/s/ig41g4m2x24pb ... 5%2038.jpg
I've also taken the bar tape off. Going to need to purchase some more but if what you're saying is true (which I've no reason to doubt it), then after a good clean up I'd only need:-
- Bar tape
- Chain
- Inners/tyres
- Cable
- Possibly brake pads
What do you think?0 -
Yes, it's worth it, because it's fun and it teaches you a lot about the bike. I once cleaned and fixed an 80s Peugeot, which I still use for commuting.Palmer291 wrote:I've also taken the bar tape off. Going to need to purchase some more but if what you're saying is true (which I've no reason to doubt it), then after a good clean up I'd only need:
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- Bar tape
- Chain
- Inners/tyres
- Cable
- Possibly brake pads
What do you think?
This seems more feasible and sensible than your previous list. If it's been unlooked after for a while, you might want to get a crank removal tool and a can of bearing grease. I remember mine being filled with mud.0 -
Yep - much better list.
Make sure you get a chunky 5-7 speed chain for it. Should be as tough as the original. This should do (a fraction of the price of a 10 speed chain) - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/clar ... tAodSA0AsQ
It isn't a cassette you have - it's a freewheel. You can still buy them but yours looks fine. The rust will go when you ride it (it has rusted where the chain has worn off the top finish) - I wouldn't spend any time on it.
I think your wheel is held on with wingnuts rather than anything quick release. You should be able to source a replacement on Ebay if you are patient or ask on the Retrobike forum.
Generally, just go over the metalwork with a bit of T-cut and a polishing cloth.
The headset nut is cheap chrome plated but without the chrome. But if you attack it with wet and dry you'll probably get a surface that will look OK - depending on what it is made for you could put a rust remedy on it and or a quick coat of black paint.
Don't try to touch the frame up - just treat any rust spots with rust remedy. The front mech will respond very well to a scrub over with a fingernail dipped in T cut. The rust stains will disappear to tiny little dots.
The pads could well be fine. Sometimes they go hard with age - sometimes not. But there are better compounds available for wet weather so if you are going to ride it a lot in winter it might be worth getting Swissstop pads designed for wet weather use. Not essential though.
When it is all back together again, polish it all with car polish and don't keep it in damp conditions (try to dry it off after wet rides rather than leaving it) or all your hard work will disappear.
Lots of elbow grease is all that needs - you'll be amazed how good it will end up looking.
Here is the Carlton I did
Before (note how corroded the metal on the headset and lamp bracket is - all rust gone in the after shot)
After
Faster than a tent.......0 -
Have you thought about making a single speed / fixie out of it? I did up a Raleigh I found at a rubbish dump as an OKish 14 speed commuter but it wasn't til I converted it that I started using it more, after all if you already got a road bike then having a ss makes something different to ride on for a change.
It wont be cheap - you'll want a new back wheel at least (but having just discovered the joys of chrome rims I think you'll be glad not to be riding them when wet). Probably a new chainset too.
Nice job Rolf!0 -
Rolf F wrote:Yep - much better list.
Make sure you get a chunky 5-7 speed chain for it. Should be as tough as the original. This should do (a fraction of the price of a 10 speed chain) - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/clar ... tAodSA0AsQ
RIght, gotta ask, why a 5-7 speed if it's a 10 speed bike? Not being funny, I generally don't know! Had a mope around Halfrauds today just looking at prices of things. £24.99 for a chain! They must be joking.Rolf F wrote:I think your wheel is held on with wingnuts rather than anything quick release. You should be able to source a replacement on Ebay if you are patient or ask on the Retrobike forum.
Sorry yeah, I meant it was wingnut but just assumed it was a quick release method rather than actually it having quick release bars.
I've also bought a crank remover tool as I want to really get in and clean it up.. cannot for the life of me get the thing of though. Also, your Carlton looks great! Top work!0 -
Speed refers to the number of cogs at the back, 5 speed is 5 cogs, 10 speed is 10 cogs. 5 speed chains are solid, 10 speed chains are made of crumbly cheese in comparison.0
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Gozzy wrote:Speed refers to the number of cogs at the back, 5 speed is 5 cogs, 10 speed is 10 cogs. 5 speed chains are solid, 10 speed chains are made of crumbly cheese in comparison.
Though, to be fair, when it was new it was a 10 speed racer. That of course was because at the time a racer might have only one chain ring so referring only to the freewheel didn't tell the whole story.
Palmer291 - maybe bung some release agent at the cranks. I presume the tool you have is as per this -
It really should come loose as long as you are using it correctly - though it might be a little tough; the cranks will no doubt have been on for 30 years so they have a right to be awkward - but don't force it too hard.
Sheldon will tell you what to do.....
http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html
And thanks re the Carlton though it isn't actually mine. Did it up for a friend - he was happy enough with it!!Faster than a tent.......0 -
Gozzy wrote:Speed refers to the number of cogs at the back, 5 speed is 5 cogs, 10 speed is 10 cogs. 5 speed chains are solid, 10 speed chains are made of crumbly cheese in comparison.
Yeah I understand the speed/cog explanation, just not sure why you'd use a 5 speed chain if it is technically a 10 speed bike?Rolf F wrote:Palmer291 - maybe bung some release agent at the cranks. I presume the tool you have is as per this - That's the one yeah!
It really should come loose as long as you are using it correctly - though it might be a little tough; the cranks will no doubt have been on for 30 years so they have a right to be awkward - but don't force it too hard.
Sheldon will tell you what to do.....
http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html
And thanks re the Carlton though it isn't actually mine. Did it up for a friend - he was happy enough with it!!
That's the tool yeah. Had a little play earlier and it had just seized up by the looks of it, refit and removed a few times and it's fine now. SO, just added a few things to my basket on chain reaction cycles.
Tyre wise, I'm just going to throw on these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mich ... -prod20463
Inner tubes are a little iffy, will these fit!? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mich ... -prod58741
Also added that chain, PLUS, some handle bar tape, and also thinking of adding hoods to the brake levers and removing the 'second brake lever' that sits just below the handle bars, leaving just the levers on the tops? What do you think?0 -
A 10 speed chain is narrower for modern, narrowly spaced 10 cog cassettes. Which when used with a 2 ring chainring at the front and gives you 20 gears or speeds, so is actually for a 20 speed bike. But as you could also use it with 3 rings up front it could also be a 30 speed bike.
To simplify things the number of speeds is described in terms of how many cogs are at the back as a 10 speed chain will work with 20 or 30 overall gears/speeds.
A 5 speed chain is wider and fits the spacing for a 5 speed freewheel (old, screw fit, version of cassette) . Which when used with a single chainring at the front gives 5speed, or with 2 ring chainring at the front gives 10 gears or speeds. So a 5 speed chain is for a set up with 5 cogs at the rear. And will work on a 5 speed or 10 speed bike. A 10 speed chain is for 10 cogs at the rear and will give 20 or 30 speeds depending.
An 8 speed chain will work with 8 cogs at the back and is somewhere in between in thicknesses and will produce 16 or 24 gears (speeds)
So a 10 speed chain won't fit on 5 speed set up and a 5 speed chain won't work on a 10 speed set up as the widths are totally different.
Basically, it's "chain speed" which equals the number of cogs at the rear, you need to worry about when deciding which chain to use. The overall number of gears (or speeds) is totally irrelevant when deciding what speed chain to buy.
I hope that all makes sense.
Also you'll find a 5 speed chain is a fraction of the price of a 10 speed chain, where 25 quid is nearer the cheap end of modern chains.0 -
Gozzy wrote:A 10 speed chain is narrower for modern, narrowly spaced 10 cog cassettes. Which when used with a 2 ring chainring at the front and gives you 20 gears or speeds, so is actually for a 20 speed bike. But as you could also use it with 3 rings up front it could also be a 30 speed bike.
To simplify things the number of speeds is described in terms of how many cogs are at the back as a 10 speed chain will work with 20 or 30 overall gears/speeds.
A 5 speed chain is wider and fits the spacing for a 5 speed freewheel (old, screw fit, version of cassette) . Which when used with a single chainring at the front gives 5speed, or with 2 ring chainring at the front gives 10 gears or speeds. So a 5 speed chain is for a set up with 5 cogs at the rear. And will work on a 5 speed or 10 speed bike. A 10 speed chain is for 10 cogs at the rear and will give 20 or 30 speeds depending.
An 8 speed chain will work with 8 cogs at the back and is somewhere in between in thicknesses and will produce 16 or 24 gears (speeds)
Basically, it's "chain speed" which equals the number of cogs at the rear, you need to worry about when deciding which chain to use. The overall number of gears or speeds is totally irrelevant.
I hope that all makes sense.
Also you'll find a 5 speed chain is a fraction of the price of a 10 speed chain, where 25 quid is nearer the cheap end of modern chains.
After that explanation it does! Haha, thanks for that, appreciate you putting the time in to educate me. Feel a bit of a novice I will admit but it all comes with the learning I guess. Thanks again Gozzy0 -
You can't remove the lower (front) levers from the lever body, you can remove the upper levers though, they should separate from the main body of the levers. TBH, the upper ones will be totally useless, as they don't give sufficient leverage to work the brakes properly. Suicide levers they used to be called.0
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Gozzy wrote:You can't remove the lower (front) levers from the lever body, you can remove the upper levers though, they should separate from the main body of the levers. TBH, the upper ones will be totally useless, as they don't give sufficient leverage to work the brakes properly. Suicide levers they used to be called.
Oh yeah the front ones are staying, the upper ones are the ones I want to remove as they look a bit weird and I've coped without them since I learnt to ride a bike! Only issue is there's the bolt that extrudes from the side now that used to hold it in place... Can this be swapped out or should I just cover it?0 -
Palmer291 wrote:Gozzy wrote:You can't remove the lower (front) levers from the lever body, you can remove the upper levers though, they should separate from the main body of the levers. TBH, the upper ones will be totally useless, as they don't give sufficient leverage to work the brakes properly. Suicide levers they used to be called.
Oh yeah the front ones are staying, the upper ones are the ones I want to remove as they look a bit weird and I've coped without them since I learnt to ride a bike! Only issue is there's the bolt that extrudes from the side now that used to hold it in place... Can this be swapped out or should I just cover it?
If you are taking the suicide levers off anyway, you could just get some replacement levers from ebay without them. Should be doable for under a tenner (or less if you grovel on Retrobike) - they'll look neater. You can then either get non-aero type with the (very cool!) cables coming out of the top or the slightly duller, more inconvenient but slightly better aero type that routes the cable under the bar tape.
The Michelin tyres are a very traditional tyre that has been made for decades and they are perfectly OK - same tyre as on that Carlton I posted. What they aren't is very good in terms of puncture resistance so if you are using it in winter, I'd go for something else. For the traditional tan walled look you can get Panaracer Paselas for £20 which are light but well protected but, if you are riding on wet roads (in which case you want alloy wheels) I'd avoid tan walls altogether as they are hard to keep clean looking. If you go for black tyres, the choice of cheap (£10ish), puncture resistant tyres increases a lot.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Rolf F wrote:If you are taking the suicide levers off anyway, you could just get some replacement levers from ebay without them. Should be doable for under a tenner (or less if you grovel on Retrobike) - they'll look neater. You can then either get non-aero type with the (very cool!) cables coming out of the top or the slightly duller, more inconvenient but slightly better aero type that routes the cable under the bar tape.
The Michelin tyres are a very traditional tyre that has been made for decades and they are perfectly OK - same tyre as on that Carlton I posted. What they aren't is very good in terms of puncture resistance so if you are using it in winter, I'd go for something else. For the traditional tan walled look you can get Panaracer Paselas for £20 which are light but well protected but, if you are riding on wet roads (in which case you want alloy wheels) I'd avoid tan walls altogether as they are hard to keep clean looking. If you go for black tyres, the choice of cheap (£10ish), puncture resistant tyres increases a lot.
I'll check out the aero ones because I like the idea of hiding the cables under the bar tape. Those tyres don't come as a pair anyway as they're out of stock so I'm going to head to my local bike shop today and see what they have to offer. Might be able to pick up a set of brake levers there too on the cheap.
That just leaves me to get:-
- 2x Tyres
- 2x Tubes
- 1x 5 speed chain
- Handle bar tape
Here is how she's looking at the moment...
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Right. Rear derailleur. Can't seem to figure out how it goes back on!? So all that's left to do is attach the chain, rear D, gear cables. Brakes need to be fine tuned as they pull to one side when squeezed and the front wheel is rattling left to right a little. Other than that, I think we're done...
Also just realised the front guard is on incorrectly haha0 -
Palmer291 wrote:Right. Rear derailleur. Can't seem to figure out how it goes back on!? So all that's left to do is attach the chain, rear D, gear cables. Brakes need to be fine tuned as they pull to one side when squeezed and the front wheel is rattling left to right a little. Other than that, I think we're done...
Also just realised the front guard is on incorrectly haha
Looking smart at next to no cost! You've been busy!
As for the rear mech - look at the first pic you posted. Bolts into the dropout and the rear wheel slots into it. Rule number one - always photograph everything before you undo it!
Brakes can be tricky - a lot depends on how you bolt them in. It's a bit trial and errorish.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Thanks Rolf! I wasn't looking at the derailleur correctly but we're back in action now. This evening I fitted everything back onto the bike and was able to get on the saddle and take her for a quick spin. She rode much better than I first expected, but there's still a lot of creaks/rattles/knocks. Gears need fine tuning as I couldn't get 1st as I was going along, and the brake pads definitely need changing, as well as the cables adjusting, as it was really taking some to try and stop, so I didn't want to push to quickly on this first ride.
Overall though, very nice to ride. Bike fit needs adjusting too AND I nearly came off trying to change on those downtube shifters! Haha, they'll take some getting used to. But guys, thanks very much for your help along the way, especially Rolf for sticking with me from the first post! Really appreciate it0
