Removing ikkle handlebar brakes from Cyclocross bike

dazautomatic

I've got a Giant TCX2 Cyclocross which I use for commuting sometimes, or wheel out when the conditions aren't that great for road bike use.

Anyhoo, I never use the little handlebar brakes that it came fitted with, I'm more more comfortable on the drops.

Would you guys recommend removing them? I don't plan to sell the bike ever really so I'm not worried about the resale value.

Would it just be a case of detaching the brake cables leading to the handlebar brakes, taking care to not bugger up the front brakes?

Any thoughts on this would be most appreciated 8)

ugo.santalucia

Yes, but you need new outer cables, as yours will be too short.

imposter2.0

You don't need new outers - you just need to fit a couple of double-ended end caps to join the two seperate lengths of outer together...

ugo.santalucia

Imposter wrote:

You don't need new outers - you just need to fit a couple of double-ended end caps to join the two seperate lengths of outer together...

You can do that, but half of the point of removing the chicken levers is reducing mushiness, if you stick the ferrules, then you reintroduce mushiness.
You can get cable outer for a few quid from the likes of Transfil and I think it's well worth replacing it

royalcbr

I would be interested to find out how easy this is to do as I am thinking of doing exactly the same on my Boardman CX.

I take it, the removal would mean replacing the entire cable because of the join at the chicken levers?

ex-pat scot

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19652313#p19652313]royalcbr[/url] wrote:

I take it, the removal would mean replacing the entire cable because of the join at the chicken levers?

Replace the outers - £1 per metre. The inner cables should be reusable.
I ditched the chicken levers on my CX. Most people do/ should.

That said - I noticed at least one set on the TdF cobbled stage the other day.

penguin_of_death

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19652313#p19652313]royalcbr[/url] wrote:

I would be interested to find out how easy this is to do as I am thinking of doing exactly the same on my Boardman CX.

I take it, the removal would mean replacing the entire cable because of the join at the chicken levers?

I have the Gunmetal 2011 model and unthreaded the cables, removed the levers and put in inline adjusters (until I can be bothered to recable and retape), if you have the 2014 models they already have inline adjusters with a couple of inches of outer between the lever anbd the adjuster, you can pull out the short piece and levers for a quick and easy fix.

Just the lever removal has made the main levers far more positive and responsive

davem399

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19653120#p19653120]Penguin of Death[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19652313#p19652313]royalcbr[/url] wrote:

I would be interested to find out how easy this is to do as I am thinking of doing exactly the same on my Boardman CX.

I take it, the removal would mean replacing the entire cable because of the join at the chicken levers?

I have the Gunmetal 2011 model and unthreaded the cables, removed the levers and put in inline adjusters (until I can be bothered to recable and retape)........

Just the lever removal has made the main levers far more positive and responsive

Ditto regarding fitting inline adjusters in place of the levers. I will do away with the adjusters when the time comes to replace the inner and outer cable.

royalcbr

Thanks guys, I will have a go - fingers crossed