Shifting Issues

pesky_jones
pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
edited August 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
I've recently set up a 1 x 10 build.

I've got;
Zee m640 shifter
Zee m640 Rear derailleur FR version - 32-36T
Shimano Deore HG62 10 speed cassette 11-36
KMC X10-93 10 speed chain

I know how to set limit screws and the b tension as well as the finer adjustments at the barrel adjuster - basically indexing. The mech is also in the correct position in the hanger.

Now, the issue is that I can't shift into the largest ring on the cassette. The reason I can not shift into ten is when I try to do so, the top jockey wheel fouls the bottom of the cassette ring. I have set the B-tension right - as for the rest of the gears (1-9) there is roughly 10-20mm clearance. However when I try to shift to ten this gap suddenly closes and the jockey wheel fouls.

Now, to make sure that this didnt happen "accidently" when cycling, I've set the low limit screw to only allow the mech to shift to gear 9. With this - the rest of the shifting is off as the limits arent right.

I hope Ive been clear - my question is can anyone see a reason why I shouldnt be able to shift into gear 10?

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The largest ring is 1st.....you are using 2-10!

    You set the B-tension on the largest ring, no other.

    Is the chain the right length, doesn't matter how much B-tension is set a too short chain will drag the top jockey into the cassette, I suspect this is your problem.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    The Rookie wrote:
    The largest ring is 1st.....you are using 2-10!

    You set the B-tension on the largest ring, no other.

    Is the chain the right length, doesn't matter how much B-tension is set a too short chain will drag the top jockey into the cassette, I suspect this is your problem.
    Firstly I'm glad to hear its not a wrong component type of problem.

    I think I set the B-tension to the 10-20mm clearance on the 10th gear (now that I know the correct numbering) and checked it that it maintained the clearance on lower gears, so that's my first mistake.

    I'm pretty sure I got the right length - I'm also running a chain tensioner, or chain device, basically a bottom roller (superstar plasma chain device) so I dont know whether this effects it.

    Before I put the chain device and mech on, I put the chain on gear 1 on the cassette, and obviously on the single ring. I then sized up what I thought was the tight and correct length, plus two links (one + powerlink).

    Thanks, and what do you think my step should be.
  • mcnultycop
    mcnultycop Posts: 2,143
    When you are sizing the chain it should go through the chain device but not the mech. As above the chain is likely too short as you've missed the device out.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Cool - do you know if its possible to put a couple of links back in? Still got the links and pins.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    But don't use the pin you knocked out - the chain will snap. Use another missing link.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Thanks, but what do you mean by "another missing link"?

    I'm probably being lazy and stupid but here's what I've got left from when I broke the chain
    image_zps0189cf08.jpg

    Can it be done with this, safely? I've seen a chain snap on the run up to a jump and it didn't end well at all
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    How have you joined it now? I'd use 2 KMC 'powerlinks' so you can split it in the future!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Yup I'm using a powerlink, which I presume is actually powerlinks

    Just wondering how to put some extra links in.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Use an second missing/powerlink to graft in whetever extra length you need.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Thanks, will it be as strong as a chain with one powerlink? Does it have to be KMC?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    No. 2 is fine and I'd recommend it. Make sure it is a 10 spd link, powerLOCK if SRAM,
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Thanks, will it be as strong as a chain with one powerlink? Does it have to be KMC?
    I ran one with three in and had no problems - lasted about a year before I replaced it but only because it was old.
    As long as it's 10 speed any will work, but might as well get a KMC (or two - spares are good)
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Get the KMC reusable one, not the SRAM once only. The removeable link is just as sytrong as a normal one, you could make a whole chain with all the outer links like that is you wanted.

    Make sure you size the chain properly this time - -measure twice - cut once!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Somehow I don't see myself sizing it wrong again. Yeah will order a KMC one - halfords and lbs didnt have any 10 speed