Freehub body problem
Again I have to change freehub body, because my cassette made little dents in it. Bike is equipped with Ultegra components but I believe that freehub body is some low end s***...
Please advise me what to buy to be durable and compatible with Shimano cassette.
Please advise me what to buy to be durable and compatible with Shimano cassette.
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What wheel is this for?0
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why do you need to change the freehub body? Even expensive hubs (Chris King, powertap) have aluminium freehub bodies which cut up. Just file off the burrs with a file or some emery cloth and carry on using it. If you have problems getting the cassette off, put a wide flat bladed screwdriver sideways between the cogs and twist, the stuck cog will flick off easily enough then.0
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I have Shimano RS10 wheels and the freehub body appears to be steel so it's still unmarked after 6 years use.
Your freehub may be cheap sh1t or expensive sh1t, but if it's an alloy body there's a chance the steel sprockets are going to cut notches in the splines.0 -
Wheels are Oval 932 - http://tinyurl.com/jwz8vyr.
The problem is that cassette makes really annoying sound. It was ok till I didn’t remove cassette to fix broken spoke. Now cassette doesn’t fit to those cuts and it makes crackling sound.0 -
i don't think the cassette 'fitting into the cuts' is the problem. If it's 'crackling' now, it must have been 'crackling' before as the cassette only fits on in one position and it is always in that position. When you refitted the cassette, did you make sure the spacer was there and is the lock ring a) threaded properly and b) tight (40Nm)?0
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Yes spacers are there and it's tight properly.
The same thing was last time when I've changed freehub body.
It makes sounds because now cassette sprockets are in line and I assume that they are trying to move into cuts.
Back to main topic. What to buy - steel or alloy freehub, Shimano or any other compatibile...any preferences?0 -
Pinging or cracking noises are spokes, rims or bearings, 9 times out of 10. If the cassette locknut is tight then the cassette is only going to move once into the notches; it won't experience any significant movement after your first ride following reassembly.
I have a couple of hubs that display the notching you describe and it is completely normal for aluminium freehub bodies.
Check around your rim eyelets for cracks and carry out a quick stressing cycle of the spokes (work your way round the wheel and squeeze adjacent spokes on the same side together hard; you may want to use gardening gloves for this).- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
As above poster - the majority of freehubs are alloy - and after time most develop notches but I think you diagnosis may be wrong
Novotec do hubs which you can use - that have a steel spline in them - but they are iirc £45 ish. have a search in the forum to find the importer.0