Road 1x10?

GiantMike
GiantMike Posts: 3,139
edited August 2013 in Workshop
I don't know if it's been discussed before, but has anybody considered a 1x10 set up on a road bike.

50/34 with 11-25 gives a range of 4.54-1.36 (total tooth difference 30)

50 with 11-36 gives a range of 4.54-1.39 (total tooth difference 25)

Anybody done it? Anybody think of a reason why it wouldn't work?

Comments

  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    Can't think of any reason why it won't work and if someone can chuck me a frame (57cm) and forks of any description I'll do it and report back.

    I can get most other parts foc around here.

    Whole bike then goes on Fleabay, all proceeds to Help for Heroes.
  • Barteos
    Barteos Posts: 657
    edited August 2013
    GiantMike wrote:
    ... 50 with 11-36 gives a range of 4.54-1.39 (total tooth difference 25)

    Mind the gap(s)!
  • djm501
    djm501 Posts: 378
    Terrible chainline at the lower and upper ends of the cassette? Still if that doesn't bother you...
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Given that SRAM XX1 is 1x11 and uses a 32 chainring with a 10-42 cassette, there's no reason why it shouldn't work. Quite a few CX riders running 1x10 and a chain guide.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    If manufacturers sold us what we actually needed rather than what we thought we needed, then single mech bikes would be a mainstream product. Of course, you'd be choosing to run a single mech because you live in flatter areas where you don't need such a wide range of gears so the huge cassette shouldn't ideally be needed. For use in London, no bike needs 20 gears. For use in Yorkshire, they probably do.

    Chainline would be marginal at the edges but, in theory, it should be better than crossed chain on a double (and, tbh, I don't think that is as bad as the thought police try to make out anyway) - assuming you can get the single front positioned midway between where the double rings would have been aligned - presume that comes out by default on single cranks?

    One prob is that nobody (afaik) makes a nice matched set of combined brake/shifter for the rear and brake only for the front - though you could source one with a broken shifter mech and strip that part out though that would work better if Campag rather than Shimano.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • pinarellokid
    pinarellokid Posts: 1,208
    the latest MTB's are running this set up, may even be 1 x 11 now though
    Specialized S Works SL2 . Campagnolo Record 11spd. rolling on Campag Zonda wheels

    http://app.strava.com/athletes/881211
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Monty Dog wrote:
    Given that SRAM XX1 is 1x11 and uses a 32 chainring with a 10-42 cassette, there's no reason why it shouldn't work. Quite a few CX riders running 1x10 and a chain guide.

    I guess no one reads previous posts then?

    I'm looking at XX1 for an MTB build - mainly because of chain rub issues with very wide tyres, the other reason is that the front mech is not as reliable offroad for keeping the chain in place and again the reason why CX riders use single rings as you often don't need such a big range and for lower gears, you simply get off and run!
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Isn't the advantage of 1x10 that you can create a completely different geometry when there is no need to have a front mech?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    back in 1973 my first drop barred bike had one chainring and five whole sprockets at the back. Seemed to work pretty well as I recall.
  • greasedscotsman
    greasedscotsman Posts: 6,962
    You could just get one of these...

    http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/cro ... -alfine-11

    (Yes, yes, I know it's not very light. But actually, I think the future isn't derailleur gears, but some sort of belt driven hub gear...)
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Hub gears - adds a kilo to the back wheel and noticeably affects handling. Belt drives? I looked at this seriously for a custom singlespeed build - too much aggro, belts aren't cheap and if they slip, you're knackered - lower drivetrain efficiency too.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • greasedscotsman
    greasedscotsman Posts: 6,962
    Sure, wouldn't buy that setup now, but I don't think any of the problems you have listed are insurmountable. Do quite like the look of that Genesis as a winter bike though.
  • jomoj
    jomoj Posts: 777
    I had a 1x9 on my roadie/cx/ commuter bike for over a year with A 36T up front and 11-28 at the back. It was a bit undergeared on downhills, starting to spin out at about 25mph but was great for my stop-start on/off road commute which includes a few short sharp hills.

    yes , chainline is a bit of a problem on the bigger sprockets but you can choose where to put the ring (inner or outer position) depending on what gears you use most. I also did the C2C ride on this bike and put the 11-34 cassette and mech from my MTB on and had a good spread for hauling up Hartside and Crawleyside hills (which are steep).

    It's definitely worth a punt and you can tune the gearing to suit the kind of riding and terrain you do, just be aware that you are sacrificing smaller jumps in gear and some range for simplicity.

    You'll also need some chain retention on the front because sooner or later the chain will drop. I had a TA chainguard on the outer position and a dogfang on the inside. Never lost the chain once with that combo.

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