Xt brake pad choice resin or sintered

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Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Sintered do decelerate you faster, Rookie, they really do. They bite harder, they shed speed at a greater rate, and therefore produce more heat.
    You agreed organic could lock the wheel, organic can hold you on the point of lockup, as you agreed you can't brake any harder than the point of lockup, then I will really have to call Bo!!ocks on your statement they bite harder or shed speed faster or decelerate you faster, therfore they build heat no faster.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    If you did a blindfold test on 3 bikes each with a different compound I doubt you could tell one from the other. I use sintered all year round now and a set lasts about 12 months.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    The Rookie wrote:
    Sintered do decelerate you faster, Rookie, they really do. They bite harder, they shed speed at a greater rate, and therefore produce more heat.
    You agreed organic could lock the wheel, organic can hold you on the point of lockup, as you agreed you can't brake any harder than the point of lockup, then I will really have to call Bo!!ocks on your statement they bite harder or shed speed faster or decelerate you faster, therfore they build heat no faster.
    Ok, sorry. You're right. Shimano Saint brakes, are no more powerful than the cantilevers we had in the late 80s, and we were wrong all along about first V brakes, then discs :roll:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Hey, you agreed it way back up the thread, the benefit of Zee/Saint is that they require less finger effort to get to the point of lockup.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    edited August 2013
    And why do you think that is?

    For the last time, locking up a brake, is not a viable metric of it's performance. It is a viable metric of tyre adhesion.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I never said it was did I so stop trying to dig yourself out of your own hole. It is the point of lockup so stop acting like a retard.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    The Rookie wrote:
    I never said it was did I so stop trying to dig yourself out of your own hole. It is the point of lockup so stop acting like a retard.
    The point of lockup, is NOT a good measure for brake power, since it is massively dependant on tyres.
    Less of the insults, too.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    The Rookie wrote:
    I've never had a brake pad (working properly) that couldn't lock a wheel, so not sure how sintered stop you quicker than organic anyway, so again I don't think sintered heat up quicker anyway.
    ^^There. Locking up a wheel, is NOT a viable method for measuring brake performance.

    I explained it for you right here...
    if you were to take a tyre with plenty of grip, say, some kind of road slick, on a clean tarmac road, then you can actually start to see the limits of brakes, since the lesser braking systems will invariably give up before the tyre grip.
    What you'll find then, is that sintered pads will decelerate the bike in less time, since they convert kinetic energy into thermal energy far quicker.

    Make sense?
    So, by your comment on "less lever effort", let's put things in that context:
    Sintered will produce more heat, and decelerate you more effectively, for less user input.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    READ the whole thread and then come back when you stop acting the retard,

    I've already pointed out that if the brake can lock a wheel it can hold it at the point of lockup (which is why I said they could lock a wheel - point of lockup is a common expression for maximum braking with a rolling wheel which is exactly what you are on about by maxium braking) so instead of screwing with semantics lets drop that utterly pointless smokescreen you are hiding behond and now you can start trying to answer the real question which is how magically sintered produce more heat at that point than organic when the ruels of physics say they don't - Alchemy I guess?

    Less lever effort due to the mechanical advantages and efficient in the system (on Zee/Saint) doesn't change the amount of heat produced under the same braking (-ve G) condition.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Given the same brake, less effort is required at the lever for sintered pads, than resin.

    I'm just about to give up on this, I'm trying really hard to explain it to you. I know I'm not the most eloquent or articulate of people, but there's no need to start throwing insults around.
  • Most brakes can lock a lightly weighted wheel, but when its properly weighted for braking (like the front should be on a trail) that's where you can properly judge stopping power. A properly weighted wheel shouldn't lock and then, you can judge whether sintered or resin stop you faster.

    From a physics point of view, if you're travelling along at a speed of X and with maximum braking effort (no locking) you stop in a distance of Y, then if compound A stops you in a shorter distance than compound B it must have generated more heat in a shorter time to do so.

    Now if you were controlling your braking, so that you stop in the same distance from the same speed with both compounds, then the kinetic energy loss would be identical and both compounds would generate the same heat in the same time.

    I don't know whether resin or sintered stops you in a quicker distance but they won't be identical. I find sintered to be more powerful than resin, especially after a few weeks of wear. If you're not constantly at the braking limits, then it probably doesn't matter which compound you use from a performance point of view. Then it becomes about the other factors, like longevity and wet / muddy braking performance. Sintered are better at both I believe.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Given the same brake, less effort is required at the lever for sintered pads, than resin.

    I'm just about to give up on this, I'm trying really hard to explain it to you. I know I'm not the most eloquent or articulate of people, but there's no need to start throwing insults around.
    The first may or may not be the case but doesn't affect heat build.

    I'd give up, you are wrong and have probably figured out now you are wrong, giving up a pointless and incorrect argument would be the sensible thing to do.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    It's not a pointless or incorrect argument, despite your resorting to name-calling. Have a read of danlightbulb's post above, he puts it across in a different, quite possibly better way.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    forget about resin or sintered - get uberbike's racematrix compound :lol:
  • 97th choice
    97th choice Posts: 2,222
    . If you're not constantly at the braking limits, then it probably doesn't matter which compound you use from a performance point of view. Then it becomes about the other factors, like longevity and wet / muddy braking .

    Amen.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Now if you were controlling your braking, so that you stop in the same distance from the same speed with both compounds, then the kinetic energy loss would be identical and both compounds would generate the same heat in the same time.
    This bit you mean, the bit that agrees with what I said all along?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Nobody disagreed with that.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Sintered offer better performance and longevity, but they generate much more heat, much quicker, so on long descents or under constant heavy braking they can lead to problems.
    Whatever
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Whatever indeed.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    resin pads also produce a lot of brake dust compared to sintered
  • capoz77
    capoz77 Posts: 503
    another thread turns into a traincrash pedantic argument, usual suspect taking this forum down the gutter :roll:
  • cyd190468 wrote:
    To the OP if you're still listening, I generally use sintered pads but have found the one weakness with the latest shimanos is that the sintered pads can get very hot as they don't fade much, at which point the pads glaze and start howling like crazy until they cool down. From my experience this only happens with genuine pads, not after market stuff. This may not be relevant in the UK as your riding conditions may not get them hot enough for this to occur.

    Thanks mate. Just been reading through all of the info, didn't realise you need a degree in science to ride a bike :wink:
    I just wanna have some fun on the bike and get a bit of VFM on the brakes :D thanks though guys
  • I like the superstar kevlar pads, good at stopping and they are red so they must be good ;) lol
    GT Force Carbon Expert
    Carrera Fury
  • I live in a wet place and ride along trails made of hard northern grit.

    I use sintered pads all year round. I stop in time so that I dont hit gates. I have fun on my bike.

    You should use sintered pads because I do.
    Advocate of disc brakes.
  • lbalony
    lbalony Posts: 301
    capoz77 wrote:
    another thread turns into a traincrash pedantic argument, usual suspect taking this forum down the gutter :roll:


    Deja Vu