Disc Brake Fade
billyripper
Posts: 8
I've been searching for this topic because I am in need of advice, couldn't find it, therefore I'll just start it. I would like to gather knowledge about fading disc brakes.
What is the technical reason for brakes to fade? Is it just heat, generated by friction?
Is a larger rotor a solution? (because of the larger surface exposed to riding wind)
Is there a difference in fade if one uses organic pads rather than sintered?
Is there a difference in fade between mechanical and hydraulic systems?
Thanks!
What is the technical reason for brakes to fade? Is it just heat, generated by friction?
Is a larger rotor a solution? (because of the larger surface exposed to riding wind)
Is there a difference in fade if one uses organic pads rather than sintered?
Is there a difference in fade between mechanical and hydraulic systems?
Thanks!
0
Comments
-
True fade is loss of braking effect due to the pad/disc interface getting hot, the pad material friction charactersistics change with temperature, get it too hot and the coefficint of friction reduces.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
1 yes and no, partly.
2 yes.
3 yes and no.
learn how to ask questions.
more advise dont drag your brakes."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
-
Thanks cobba, that's useful.
Nick: I wanted to start a knowledge-thread, editing the first post in the end, but maybe that isn't really my role here. And english is not my own language, so how I ask questions is probably different from how you would ask questions. I should have probably asked "what is the difference" instead of "is there a difference".
Oh, and I don't drag my brakes. I brake hard before turns and then let go of them. Information on fading disc brakes seemed to be so scattered when I used the search function, I wanted to gather the "universal truths" on it.0 -
In the respect of fade, bike brakes are very like car (auto) brakes, plenty of information on that on the WWW.
Are you getting fade or is this a hypothetical enquiry?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Hypothetical, but I am a bit afraid I will be getting fade in a few weeks. I will be travelling through Alps, the Dolomites and the Balkan Alps, on a fully loaded cargobike. Trying to prepare and I thought to open a topic simply on fade so other people, might profit as well.
Thanks for the car advice! I will look into that. Never crossed my mind as I am not a car driver. Don't even have my licence
0 -
This is worth a read: http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/ ... akes-work/0
-
Not really he's on cable brakes!
DO NOT use sintered pads, either organic or better Kevlar, sintered have a very very steep tail off in performance as they overheat, the others are more progressive and will give you more warning.
The bigger and heavier the disc, the better, Shimano do their icetech with an alloy core for better heat transfer.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Im not trying to thread steal here, more of just joining in the conversation because i would like to discuss disc brakes since i have been using my first disc brake bike for only about 2 weeks, and it has raised some question marks for me. I know almost nothing!
Does the material of the disc determine the type of pad you should use? Im using a stainless steel rotor with organic pads. Is this correct?0 -
Disc material isn't relevant, all discs are low grade stainless (so you'll get some surface rust) bar a few whacky ones.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
In that case I think i may have got confused when i read on a page while looking at disc brakes "use resin pads ONLY". Thats what made me think that different discs need different pads.
One more question on brakes. lol. Does drilling pattern affect the braking? My disc has many large holes and i think that may be the reason for the noise and vibration.0 -
Some Shimano rotors say organic pads only, but IMO any pads work with any rotors, they're all pretty much the same. In theory sintered might wear the rotors quicker, but they still last ages.
Organic pads are fine with anything though.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
The drillings can create noise (more usually large slots rather than dillings), saw teeth are more likely to, also a warped disc can do it.....Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
I can't see that anywhere.The Rookie wrote:Not really he's on cable brakes!
And the link answers the questions in the OP!0 -
You need to see his other thread, he's on BB5's.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
Ah right.....well I'm not trawling threads to do background checks on posters and their bikes!The Rookie wrote:You need to see his other thread, he's on BB5's.
In any case, the thread was a general "give me some info" thing, and that's what the link does. The pad and rotor sections are equally relevant to mech and hydro brakes.0 -
The Rookie wrote:The drillings can create noise (more usually large slots rather than dillings), saw teeth are more likely to, also a warped disc can do it.....
Maybe i should invest in a more "solid" rotor? One with less holes and gaps, mine is quite poor! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARADINE-Cycl ... 35c61fe79b0 -
What do you have now?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
The rotor in the ebay link, 180mm on the rear.0
-
Sorry, thought that was what you were proposing to get, that shouldn't create an issue, make sure the caliper is aligned properly though.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
No worries. The brake is almost perfect now anyway, just a bit of vibration and squeal at the end.0
