bottom bracket threads have worn is it fixable

crrazzzyy
crrazzzyy Posts: 38
edited August 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hey guys i have a classic orange sub 5 frame im doing up but the bottom bracket threads on the bike have worn so the bb hollowtech wont screw in it just pushes in :\.
Is this fixable by tap and dye ing the thread or will this make it too weak ...any other options ??

Thanks in advance

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    if you have stripped the threads then there is nothing to cut into.

    be aware that there were some undersize HT cups out there.

    three options. cut and shut the BB and re machine, bore out and fit an insert. fit a BB that screws onto its self. these tend to be square taper fitting only.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • edhornby
    edhornby Posts: 1,780
    press fit cups for a square taper BB, you loctite them in and they never come out so it extends the useability of the frame but once the BB within it dies, the frame goes in the bin or cut the entire bb shell out and weld a new one in

    I would go for the 'bore out the threads, fit pressfit bearings' option - have you spoken to BETD/Goldtec ? they would be the guys I'd go to with something like this...
    "I get paid to make other people suffer on my wheel, how good is that"
    --Jens Voight
  • Some usefull info /options there thanks guys
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Dont know whether its possible but you might be able to get the bottom bracket threaded for Italian threads they are slightly bigger than the standard BSA threads and Shimano do road HT11 BBs with Italian thread. Best people to talk to is Orange.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Argaubly, as long as the shell is square an HT2 style BB needs no threads, it can't go anywhere, so I'd be inclined to just use some threadlock on them and install the cranks and preload before it goes off (threadlock to stop them spinning in the frame).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    The threads have just died on my SS bike, the bike shop tried and failed to cut a new thread. They didn't have a tool for an Italian BB thread.

    So I've just installed a threadless bottom bracket

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YST-Threadless-Bottom-Bracket-FOR-damaged-threads-68mm-x-116-119-or-112-5mm-axle-/190716907198?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item2c679d0ebe

    The guy in the shop told me I'd have to ream out the thread in my BB shell (false) and have the shell faced (maybe true). Certainly after 40 miles it had come loose, the suggestion over on yacf is that you need a bevel on the shell to stop up and down movement; I've had a go at mine with a grinding drill bit to give it a bit of an edge. It's worked so far (this morning's commute!).

    I'd ignored the possibility of having a framebuilder look at as being too expensive - having spent £30 on bits to get this far it wouldn't be too much more cash for someone reputable to braze in a sleeve and cut a thread into that, though it will leave your bike with damaged paintwork.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    BB won't work with a hollowtech crankset, and you can't braze into an Orange Sub 5 (ally frame).

    No need for any faffing you describe with that BB.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.