Components for my Canyon build

ali4390
ali4390 Posts: 106
edited August 2013 in MTB buying advice
I'm after some advice regarding components for my Canyon Nerve build.

This will be my first full sus bike and first build from scratch so I plan to learn as I go along, I want it to be a nice all round MTB. But I am pretty clueless when it comes to certain components so am looking for help!

Below is a spec list I have drawn up but I'm not sure on compatibility etc so would appreciate advice.

Frame: 2011 Canyon Nerve AM - Medium - Purchased
Forks: 2010 Rockshox Revs - 140mm - Purchased
Bars: Easton Havoc – Carbon
Stem: Easton Haven - 70mm
Headset: ??
Grips: Superstar Supagripa- Purchased
Brakes: Shimano Deore M596 w 180/160mm rotors- Purchased
Seat: Charge Spoon
Seat Post: Reverb – 125mm
Seat Post Clamp: Hope
Shifter: ??
Rear Mech: Shimano SLX M675 Shadow+
Cranks: Shimano SLX M675 HollowTech II Double Chainset 175mm
Chainring: ??
Chain: ??
Cassette: ??
Pedals: Shimano XT Trail
Bottom Bracket: The one that came with the frame (cannot remember what it is right now)
Wheels: StanCrest on Switch Evo hubs- Purchased
Front Tyre: Maxxis High Roller - Purchased
Rear Tyre: Maxxis High Roller- Purchased

As you can see there are a few areas I'm not sure about - any suggestions or feedback would be great!

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    For an all round MTB I'd go a little less 'DH' on the bars and stem.

    Seatpost clamp (bolted with a reverb) there are lighter and cheaper (and do just as good a job) than Hope.

    Shifter I'd go XT

    What gearing? 1x or 2x10? I assume 1x10 due to the MRP?

    Then Chainring, get a thickthin, raceface are getting a good rep.

    Chain KMC

    Cassette, SLX or XT (11-36 obviously)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    The Rookie wrote:
    For an all round MTB I'd go a little less 'DH' on the bars and stem.

    Seatpost clamp (bolted with a reverb) there are lighter and cheaper (and do just as good a job) than Hope.

    Shifter I'd go XT

    What gearing? 1x or 2x10? I assume 1x10 due to the MRP?

    Then Chainring, get a thickthin, raceface are getting a good rep.

    Chain KMC

    Cassette, SLX or XT (11-36 obviously)
    I had copied the list from someone else to get a format and forgot to change a couple of bits.

    Gearing would be 2x10 - the MRP was one thing I forgot to change and I'm not even sure what that is...

    Do you have any recommendations for the less DH bars and stem?
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Headset - Hope
    Shifter - XT
    Chainring - Wolf Components/Works/RF narrow/wide XX1 style (or just buy an XX1 chainset), then ditch the guide
    Chain - KMC X10
    Cassette - XT 11-36
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    M615 have replaced the M596s as brakes.

    what are you currently ridding?
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    ali4390 wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    For an all round MTB I'd go a little less 'DH' on the bars and stem.

    Seatpost clamp (bolted with a reverb) there are lighter and cheaper (and do just as good a job) than Hope.

    Shifter I'd go XT

    What gearing? 1x or 2x10? I assume 1x10 due to the MRP?

    Then Chainring, get a thickthin, raceface are getting a good rep.

    Chain KMC

    Cassette, SLX or XT (11-36 obviously)
    I had copied the list from someone else to get a format and forgot to change a couple of bits.

    Gearing would be 2x10 - the MRP was one thing I forgot to change and I'm not even sure what that is...

    Do you have any recommendations for the less DH bars and stem?

    MRP is a chain guide, you'd see a lot of DH focused bikes with them. But it means you run a single chain ring

    Personally I'd say that stems fine but it really depends what you using it for, will climbing be a big part of your riding? If so perhaps a 90mm stem would be better suited
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    I got a good deal on the M596 so happy with them for the moment.

    Currently ride a Carerra Kraken.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    ali4390 wrote:
    I got a good deal on the M596 so happy with them for the moment.

    Currently ride a Carerra Kraken.

    ah thought this was a list you were going to buy.

    how does the reach and width of the bars compare to the Kraken - the Easton Haven stem is a work of art, I fitted one to my bike yesterday. 55mm with Easton monkeybars

    9511890172_85284362d7_c.jpg
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    You may also want to consider using Stans Arch EX rims. They're stonger and not much heavier and I think will be more 'All rounders'
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    ej2320 wrote:
    MRP is a chain guide, you'd see a lot of DH focused bikes with them. But it means you run a single chain ring

    Personally I'd say that stems fine but it really depends what you using it for, will climbing be a big part of your riding? If so perhaps a 90mm stem would be better suited
    I tend to ride in the peaks quite a lot so have a fair bit of climbing.

    It really is a minefield out there, there are so many variations of parts I'm so confused. Looking at chainset at the moment and there's 38/24, 38/26 and 40/28 - I have no idea which would suit me better.
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    I can't remember what size stem and bars I have on the Kraken to be honest, I upgraded them ages ago.

    I've upgraded the original list to show the bits I've already bought (or am swapping over from the current bike).
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    ali4390 wrote:
    ej2320 wrote:
    MRP is a chain guide, you'd see a lot of DH focused bikes with them. But it means you run a single chain ring

    Personally I'd say that stems fine but it really depends what you using it for, will climbing be a big part of your riding? If so perhaps a 90mm stem would be better suited
    I tend to ride in the peaks quite a lot so have a fair bit of climbing.

    It really is a minefield out there, there are so many variations of parts I'm so confused. Looking at chainset at the moment and there's 38/24, 38/26 and 40/28 - I have no idea which would suit me better.

    A short stem will but much more responsive on downhill and tight turns and probably stronger (and a tiny bit lighter)
    A long stem will give you better balance on the bike on climbs and stop the front wheel coming up - I use 90mm and have no issues on climbs. I want to change it to 60/70mm stem to speed up handling on black runs. You can use a short stem on climbs no problem but you have to make more of an effort to move your weight over the front which in turn gives the rear less traction

    Bars are similar. I run 685mm bars and find them too narrow, I want 720mm

    The wider the bar the easier the steering as you have more leverage but also it's easier to hold a line and stop the wheel getting stuck in a rut (It also supposedly helps with breathing as it open up your chest a bit but I can't comment on that)

    You could run a long stem and wide bar combo, you get the better stem on climbs and the more responsive handling on the downs but this will weigh more if you're worried about that sort of thing

    As for gear ratios, the rear cassette I would always run 11-36 as it just gives you that easy gear for when you're struggling

    I run 39/26 and can manage even the ridiculous slopes in lowest gear

    The larger the outer ring the faster you can go by pedalling, but with 39 front 11 rear even hitting 30mph on a road I can still put power through the pedals and my legs aren't just spinning. Personally I'd say you don't need the 40 chainring unless you plan in using it on roads

    Either the 38/24 or 38/26 will be great. The 24 will mean you have an even lower gear so unless you are going to do climbs when you use the lowest gear and crawl up it cause it's so steep you probably won't need it
    38/26 is generally an all rounder setup

    It is up to you however and I've just given a description (and a bit of personal opionion)
    If you buy a bar that's to narrow/wide it is an easy part to change to dont feel like you've stuck with a bar if you don't like it. That also applies to the stem
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    I would also recommend shimano for the cassette
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You'll need a front mech if your 2x10, Anything Shimano (lighter than SRAM generally), Deore works just as well as more expensive stuff.

    Stem - superstar forged
    Bars depends on width/rise etc you want, if you aren't sure then get some cheap 'slave' ones first then get the one you really want when you know what shape you want!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    Thanks for the reply, that's very helpful.

    I just got a well timed, random text message from a mate who's Dad has a twin ring bash guard set up, with shifters, rear derailleur, bottom bracket, rear mech, chain and casette for sale. All SLX and he says I can have it for £70 as it's just been lying around. Chain and cassette are 5 rides old, bottom bracket is 3 rides old, crank is a year old but chain rings were replaced 6 months ago.

    Think that's that one sorted then!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    That's a ruddy good price, and yes sorted!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    ali4390 wrote:
    Thanks for the reply, that's very helpful.

    I just got a well timed, random text message from a mate who's Dad has a twin ring bash guard set up, with shifters, rear derailleur, bottom bracket, rear mech, chain and casette for sale. All SLX and he says I can have it for £70 as it's just been lying around. Chain and cassette are 5 rides old, bottom bracket is 3 rides old, crank is a year old but chain rings were replaced 6 months ago.

    Think that's that one sorted then!

    Best price you'll get

    I'd recommend Hope for the headset
  • ali4390
    ali4390 Posts: 106
    Thinking about it, I've got a feeling the frame came with a headset (delivered to another address so I've only actually seen it once and that was a few weeks ago).

    I do love the look of Hope headsets though I probably wouldn't upgrade until I needed to.
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    ali4390 wrote:
    Thinking about it, I've got a feeling the frame came with a headset (delivered to another address so I've only actually seen it once and that was a few weeks ago).

    I do love the look of Hope headsets though I probably wouldn't upgrade until I needed to.

    If it has one that's fine then, if not get the Hope. It's one of the few parts that you fit, 5 years later its still perfect