Building my own bike

bwfc4eva868
bwfc4eva868 Posts: 717
edited August 2013 in MTB buying advice
First and foremost I've never ever done this before but thinking instead of buying a new bike I should do my own.
Frame I'm not sure yet but Hardtail thinking of either one one 456 EVO or a Inbred whichever suits 120mm forks best.
Now i think I could use the brakes from my current Carrera Vulcan and the wheels or at least one.
And I'd need Handlebars and stem
Grupset probably SLX or Deore
And a headset and gear cables.
Anything I've missed?
Also how do I know what's compatible with the frame?

Also tools, what do I need and what should I get a lbs to do?

Comments

  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    get a bike shop to do the headset and bottom bracket(crank) and fit the yourself. most tools are basic allen (set of 2-10) keys and torx (25 usually). the description of the frame should tell you the headset size, BB type, Fmech type and seat tube size.
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    Take note if the headtube is tapered as that effects the headset and forks

    Take note of the dropouts of the fork (usual 15mm or 20mm) and the rear dropout (usually 135mm 12mm or 142mm 12mm) if the dropouts are different you may have to convert your old wheels

    A good set of wheels will cost you about £300, you can get Hope pro 2 evos and stans for that but you may have to convert the axel to fit your bike and a conversion kit is about £10 and you LBS could do it for you. Or use Superstar custom wheel builder

    Otherwise keep your current ones

    As for brakes, you may want to upgrade. You can buy a nice set of shimano brakes or Elixir 7/9 for £100-150 and I be they'll be more powerful and lighter than your current ones. Try German websites like bike-components.de and bike24.de. That goes for a groupset to, I saw an SLX set for £200 on a German site and you can get it with the brakes for about £300

    Handle bar and stem, if you ride trails you'll find a Thompson x4 stem the best. It's light and super strong and you can get it in 50 or 70mm which is ideal for trails

    Handlebar you can get a good 720 - 740mm for about £50 which again is good for trails

    You'll also need grips
  • mcnultycop
    mcnultycop Posts: 2,143
    It's rewarding. I built my Scandal with limited knowledge, I did everything other than headset, BB and cutting the steerer myself. I didn't know a lot about where to start but know I can do most things myself pretty confidently.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Take note of the dropouts of the fork (usual 15mm or 20mm) and the rear dropout (usually 135mm 12mm or 142mm 12mm) if the dropouts are different you may have to convert your old wheels

    Or standard QR...
    you'll find a Thompson x4 stem the best

    No it's not. It's an option, but not 'the best', there is no single best one.

    As POAH said, the headset and BB are the only bits that require any unsual tools, the rest can be done with allen keys frankly (and cable cutters). Worth doing, you'll know how it all works (or doesn't!) then.
  • Silly question but just to save costs for a bit. Be able to use my existing gearset (SRAM X4) basically, I have my Carrera Vulcan, but want a new frame.

    So hoping to use my existing wheels, hopefully gears and then add new forks, handlebars and stem. And when money allows a SLX Groupset, fancy wheels.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Yes and no. The chain may well be the wrong length, which will mean a new chain, and thus probably a new cassette, and probably new chainrings, and your BB may not fit, so new cranks, and your front mech may be the wrong fitting etc.

    But shifters and rear mech will certainly fit, and you may get lucky with everything else.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I wouldn't necesarily consider either frame an upgrade from a Vulcan frame, why do you want a new frame and for what sort of usage?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    The Rookie wrote:
    why do you want a new frame and for what sort of usage?

    +1

    The two frames you mention are very different. Answering the about questions might help us to steer you in the right direction.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Don't know why you are so determined to get rid of the Vulcan frame, is a good frame! Replacing it with a lump of steel that weighs 2lbs more is not going to do your less weight objective of other threads any good.

    Vulcan - longer forks like a Reba 120mm. New tyres. Foam grips. Lighter tubes. Job done for now.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Well indeed, mine weighs in at 1735g (16" 2006).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Dunno i just want something a bit more interesting on the downs. I still think its too big. I'm gonna try it with a 70mm stem to put some bend in my arms, I've moved the seat as far forward as it will go. I'm 5ft 11 and frame is 20 inch.

    I do like the bike, and maybe new forks will transform it.
  • ej2320
    ej2320 Posts: 1,543
    njee20 wrote:
    Take note of the dropouts of the fork (usual 15mm or 20mm) and the rear dropout (usually 135mm 12mm or 142mm 12mm) if the dropouts are different you may have to convert your old wheels

    Or standard QR...
    you'll find a Thompson x4 stem the best

    No it's not. It's an option, but not 'the best', there is no single best one.

    As POAH said, the headset and BB are the only bits that require any unsual tools, the rest can be done with allen keys frankly (and cable cutters). Worth doing, you'll know how it all works (or doesn't!) then.

    Sorry, forgot about QR

    Got a bit carried away with the x4 thing, but it's a nice piece of metal and the Hope stem is also great and comes with a rise option
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Prefer the fully forged ones stems, are lighter, stronger and cheaper.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    don't need to spend £300 to get a good set of wheels

    a Thomson X4 is not the best stem

    width of bars is dependant on the person - 720mm would be far far too big for me and I currently ride my local trails with a 90mm stem.

    Think you read too many magazines :lol:
    ej2320 wrote:
    Take note if the headtube is tapered as that effects the headset and forks

    Take note of the dropouts of the fork (usual 15mm or 20mm) and the rear dropout (usually 135mm 12mm or 142mm 12mm) if the dropouts are different you may have to convert your old wheels

    A good set of wheels will cost you about £300, you can get Hope pro 2 evos and stans for that but you may have to convert the axel to fit your bike and a conversion kit is about £10 and you LBS could do it for you. Or use Superstar custom wheel builder

    Otherwise keep your current ones

    As for brakes, you may want to upgrade. You can buy a nice set of shimano brakes or Elixir 7/9 for £100-150 and I be they'll be more powerful and lighter than your current ones. Try German websites like bike-components.de and bike24.de. That goes for a groupset to, I saw an SLX set for £200 on a German site and you can get it with the brakes for about £300

    Handle bar and stem, if you ride trails you'll find a Thompson x4 stem the best. It's light and super strong and you can get it in 50 or 70mm which is ideal for trails

    Handlebar you can get a good 720 - 740mm for about £50 which again is good for trails

    You'll also need grips
  • Is set of Mavic xc17 on xt hubs any good? Am I best with the Vulcan frame and new Reba Rl's as opposed to a new frame? Want a good set up for trail centres and twisty woodland trails.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    I've got a Front hope XC with a mavic X517 rim (yes that old) and a rear XT XM119 both laced with DT DB spokes. could have saved another 80g with an XC717 rim but choose to save £25 instead. The rear is just over 1000g

    only reasons to change the frame would be to have it lighter or because you want a longer travel fork.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    For the downs you just need a deecent XC frame, a reasonable one will set you back circa £35-80 off ebay, maybe just an 18" Carrera.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    For the downs you just need a deecent XC frame, a reasonable one will set you back circa £35-80 off ebay, maybe just an 18" Carrera.....

    I don't know because I tried a 18inch Fury and banged my knees on the bars. I think it's the reach that's the problem. I only get nervous when it gets really steep. Even when positioned for downs I feel like I'm holding on by my finger tips.
  • Have you considered getting a carbon whippet frame from On-One? You can pick them up brand new for £250, they're incredibly light and they can take up to a 120mm fork. :) There are lots of carbon 456's knocking around for around £150-£200 too on these forums.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Then add at least £50 if not more for all the bits that won't fit.....

    Sounds like a technique issue to meknees should be nowhere near the bars and te Carrera's descend just fine for an XC bike.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Im sure it must be technique and slightly too long stem. My mate has the Kraken version of mine like Rookie with a 60mm stem and 700mm bars and a 130mm Tora and he batters down stuff.