Advice on rebuilding an 06 Specialized Hardrock Disc

cmachine

Hi all. New to the forum and I'm about to embark upon a labour of love. I have an old silver 06 Spesh Hardrock Disc that I still use for the commute and some trails and have decided to give it some love and completely strip it down, powder coat the frame and then rebuild from scratch. I just would like some advice on components and compatibility for anyone that knows this bike. Also, I've heard all the "just junk it and get a new bike" and "the frame is too heavy" naysayers etc. etc. This was my first mountain bike and I want to give it some love back. I've previously replaced the stock brakes with Avid Juicy 3.5s, chainrings with middleburn ones and rear cassettes etc. but this new build will be a complete overhaul. I will just be keeping the Avid brakes, the SDG Freeride saddle (very comfy), seat post, DMR peddles (maybe replace with NS bikes blue ones) and Smart Sam tires. Pretty much everything else will go.
The original idea of the rebuild was to build a lighter bike for decent single track, bit of technical, more aggressive trails but something pretty striking appearance wise. I like the frame geometry and the bike instills confidence when rolling over anything. I have a BeOne XC bike which is light and super fast but kind of scary over anything challenging. Originally I had planned to mimic the colour scheme of the old blue & chrome Viceroy BMX from my youth (showing my age here!) but this has now changed to a garish/shocking orange (RAL 2009) powder coat with blue highlights (bits and bobs). Firstly I will be stripping the bike and then getting the powder coat...after that start buying the components. Budget is in and around the £650 mark. I'm spending the guts of that on forks and wheels. Those old RSTs have to go! My real dilemma is over BB and crankset. I toyed with Shimano cos it is what I am used to but now looking at a SRAM X5 setup but very confused over my options on BBs for SRAM. I will post below the ORIGINAL bike spec shortly and then I would welcome sensible suggestions of what I can install. I also have a wishlist on CRC of the kit I want to put on it and interested on viewpoints on that. Thanks all. (will post photos as project gets under way....or even if it falls at the first hurdle....the powder coat!)

cmachine

original spec (I've replaced some of this)

FRAME A1 Premium Aluminum, disc only, double butted ORE DT, externally relieved head tube,
reinforced disc mount, forged dropouts w/ replaceable 98954020 hanger
REAR SHOCK N/A
FORK RST Gilla Plus T7, 100mm, Cro-Mo steerer, 30mm stanchions, coil MCU w/ preload
adjust
HEADSET 1 1/8" threadless
STEM Specialized 3D forged alloy, two bolt, 25.4mm, 10 degree rise
HANDLEBARS Alloy 25.4mm, 38mm rise, 620mm wide, 8 degree back, 6 degree up sweep, 3.2mm thick
TAPE / GRIPS Specialized Enduro, dual density Kraton
FRONT BRAKE Hayes Sole hydraulic w/ 6" v-cut rotors
REAR BRAKE Hayes Sole hydraulic w/ 6" v-cut rotors
BRAKE LEVERS Hayes Sole hydraulic w/ BFL Lever
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Acera M-330
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Acera
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Alivio M-410 SL Rapid Fire
CASSETTE / FREEWHEEL Shimano MFHG-40, 8-speed, 11-32t
CHAIN Shimano HG-50, 1/2" x 3/32"
CRANKSET Truvativ ISO Flow 3.0 for Power Spline, replaceable rings
CHAINRINGS 42S/32S/22S
BOTTOM BRACKET Truvativ Power Spline, cartridge bearing, 68 x 113mm for 47.5mm chainline
PEDALS Steel cage, plastic body, 9/16"
RIMS Specialized/Alex HRD 26, double wall disc
FRONT HUB Specialized Hi Lo disc, 36h, CNC flange and disc mount, QR
REAR HUB Shimano M-475 Disc, cassette, 36h
SPOKES 2.0mm (14g) stainless
FRONT TYRE Specialized Resolution, 26x2.1", 30TPI, wire bead
REAR TYRE Specialized Resolution, 26x2.1", 30TPI, wire bead
TUBES Specialized schraeder valve
SADDLE Specialized Body Geometry, ATB
SEAT POST Alloy micro adjust
SEAT BINDER Alloy collar w/ QR
NOTES Chain stay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owners manual

cmachine

...and current wishlist from CRC....BB/crankset still undecided (SRAM 600 in cos I don't know what I can really fit and it is cheap!)


Rock Shox Recon Silver TK Solo Air Forks 2013

Black9mm QR100mm1.1/8"26"
sku329917
From:£199.99
RRP£279.99 Save 29.0%

Da Bomb Bomb QR Clamp 2013

Royal Blue34.9mm
sku266582
From:£14.49
RRP£15.99 Save 9.0%

Fulcrum Red Power XL Centre-Lock MTB Wheelset 2013

Black15mm Front & 135mm x QR Rear26"
sku305208
From:£233.99
RRP£259.99 Save 10.0%


NS Bikes Aerial Loose Ball Flat Pedals 2013

Blue
sku339379
From:£29.99
RRP£29.99

Octane One Warp 1 Sealed Headset 2013

Blue1.1/8"
sku178404
From:£29.99
RRP£29.99


Octane One Chemical Pro Stem 2013

Blue25.4mm40mm1.1/8"
sku341590
From:£29.99
RRP£29.99

Ragley Half Waffle Logo Lock On Grip

Blue
sku145675
From:£10.99
RRP£14.99 Save 27.0%


SRAM X5 9 Speed Rear Mech

SilverMedium Cage
sku290702
From:£31.99
RRP£49.99 Save 36.0%


SRAM X5 3x9sp High Clamp Front Mech

SilverConventional31.8mm/34.9mm
sku329167
From:£19.99
RRP£29.99 Save 33.0%

SRAM PG950 9 Speed MTB Cassette

Silver11-32t
sku18199
From:£14.99
RRP£44.99 Save 67.0%

SRAM PC971 9 Speed Chain

Silver114 Links
sku31139
From:£13.99
RRP£21.99 Save 36.0%

SRAM X5 9 Speed Trigger Shifter

BlackPair
sku309016
From:£44.99
RRP£49.99 Save 10.0%

Truvativ Hussefelt Comp Riser Bars

Blast Black31.8mm40mm700mm
sku258031
From:£22.99
RRP£27.99 Save 18.0%


NC-17 Bottle Cage Bolts 7075 Alloy 2013

Blue2 Pack
sku59099
From:£4.49
RRP£4.49


Truvativ Powerspline BB

Black68 x 113mm
sku66342
From:£23.99
RRP£29.99 Save 20.0%


SRAM S600 Triple Chainset - Power Spline

104mmBlack175mm42.32.22t
sku215249
From:£33.99
RRP£39.99 Save 15.0%

nicklouse

so what are you asking?

The Rookie

Nothing wrong with an 06 frame and it's not that heavy, my MTB is an 06 Carrera frame (so about the same weight and made in the same factory) - see link in sig.

Personally I'd rebalance the buying list to target better forks and cut back elsewhere, the silvers are heavier and clunkier than the rest of the bike deserves, you could always save a bunch where you can re-use or judicioulsy buy a good 'pre-loved' part.

Another option is getting a good discounted/value for money bike and using it as a part donor, a Rockrider 8.1 for example would give you almost all you need for £550.

cmachine

basically advice on crankset options. Can I fit a Shimano HT II in this frame? or is Powerspline ok...what crankset would u recommend etc. etc. currently got a square taper in there. And any other component advice. A friend tells me SRAM is a bit more reliable when it gets mucky.

cmachine

The Rookie wrote:

Nothing wrong with an 06 frame and it's not that heavy, my MTB is an 06 Carrera frame (so about the same weight and made in the same factory) - see link in sig.

Personally I'd rebalance the buying list to target better forks and cut back elsewhere, the silvers are heavier and clunkier than the rest of the bike deserves, you could always save a bunch where you can re-use or judicioulsy buy a good 'pre-loved' part.

Another option is getting a good discounted/value for money bike and using it as a part donor, a Rockrider 8.1 for example would give you almost all you need for £550.

Ah cheers, that is good to know. I wasn't sure about the frame until I really remove anything. I think the weight in the bike is really in the wheels and RST Gilas. A fried says I can reuse the front derailleur so no need to buy another there. What forks would you recommend around the £200-250 range?

jimothy78

Here's my 2007 Pro Disc (bought as an empty frame last year) and built up using a load of mostly secondhand parts:


Won't go into the nitty-gritty, but important specs are:

Forks - Rockshox Revelation dual position air
Wheels - Mavic XC 717 disc on Shimano SLX M665 hubs
Brakes - Clarks S2 with 180mm XT rotors
Cranks - SLX M660 (being run as a 36/22 double with steel Deore chainring on middle position)
BB - XTR BB91 (£25 from rose)
Front Mech - SLX M665 (36/22T double specific)
Rear mech - XT 9 speed long cage
Shifter - LX (old but work well)

All the above (with the exception of the brakes and BB) was bought secondhand. The rest of the kit (post, bars, saddle, grips etc) is basically as cheap as I could source posibly, and the bike has still cost me almost exactly £500, and weighs 13.5kg ish with pedals. Amazing how all the little bits add up (in both respects)

jimothy78

Oh, and I should have said - the best thing I've done is drop down to 2x9 - the low bottom bracket meant i was getting lots of rockstrikes on technical climbs when i was running a big ring. the SLX double-specific front mech followed soon after, and has really cut down on the frequent chain drops I suffered from after ditching the big rig.

cmachine

interesting ! To begin with I was torn between 9 and 10 speed. The original bike is an 8 speed triple and I kind of like it that way but so hard to find that stuff now. Did think about a 10 speed double but not sure how I would cope without the extra ring. Weight is definitely a concern as the current bike sometimes feels like pedaling in treacle compared to my BeOne Karma...but it does have a certain charm.

jimothy78

cmachine wrote:

interesting ! To begin with I was torn between 9 and 10 speed.... Did think about a 10 speed double but not sure how I would cope without the extra ring.

I found that I never used my 44T offroad, so losing it wasn't that much of a hardship. Upping the middle ring from 32T to 36T makes up some of the difference anyway, and running a 11-34 cassette I can honestly say I have all the gears i need.

At the moment you can still find plenty of 9 speed bits and bobs floating around both new and secondhand, and they tend to be cheap as so many people are moving towards 10 speed. I might eventually make the move to 1x10 as and when a) I get fitter, and b) 10 speed bits start coming down in price. If i do, I've already got the 32T 10speed middle chainring I've removed waiting in the garage.

The Rookie

The BB shell is a standard 68mm English so you can fit almost anything you like, Shimano HT2 would be my preferance (get the frame faced), either Deore or SLX.

Forks, anything Rockshox with alloy stanchions and air spring (right travel and 1 1/8" steerer) if you can get it in budget, so Recon Gold, Reba or Revelations.

Gila's weigh a ton!

cmachine

jimothy78 wrote:

cmachine wrote:

interesting ! To begin with I was torn between 9 and 10 speed.... Did think about a 10 speed double but not sure how I would cope without the extra ring.

I found that I never used my 44T offroad, so losing it wasn't that much of a hardship. Upping the middle ring from 32T to 36T makes up some of the difference anyway, and running a 11-34 cassette I can honestly say I have all the gears i need.

At the moment you can still find plenty of 9 speed bits and bobs floating around both new and secondhand, and they tend to be cheap as so many people are moving towards 10 speed. I might eventually make the move to 1x10 as and when a) I get fitter, and b) 10 speed bits start coming down in price. If i do, I've already got the 32T 10speed middle chainring I've removed waiting in the garage.

I think I will still use the bike for getting to and from trails and some urban/commute so want to stick with the 3 rings, but have read quite a bit on forums where guys have turned these into single speed jump bikes (I'm not that rad!) or doubles, but thanks for the info.

cmachine

The Rookie wrote:

The BB shell is a standard 68mm English so you can fit almost anything you like, Shimano HT2 would be my preferance (get the frame faced), either Deore or SLX.

Forks, anything Rockshox with alloy stanchions and air spring (right travel and 1 1/8" steerer) if you can get it in budget, so Recon Gold, Reba or Revelations.

Gila's weigh a ton!

Great info thanks! Don't know much about frame facing but I have a mate who regularly builds/repairs all his own DH bikes so hopefully he can help. I found an obscure forum post on how to strip the Gilas and re-grease them? Apparently they are not meant to be taken apart as the plastic tops will testify to as I ripped them to bits. It was a learning experience. I cleaned and re-greased them and for about a month they actually seemed to move more than 10mm...then they went back to their default state ie. totally bloody rigid..haha. Useless forks.

cmachine

jimothy78 wrote:

Here's my 2007 Pro Disc (bought as an empty frame last year) and built up using a load of mostly secondhand parts:


Won't go into the nitty-gritty, but important specs are:

Forks - Rockshox Revelation dual position air
Wheels - Mavic XC 717 disc on Shimano SLX M665 hubs
Brakes - Clarks S2 with 180mm XT rotors
Cranks - SLX M660 (being run as a 36/22 double with steel Deore chainring on middle position)
BB - XTR BB91 (£25 from rose)
Front Mech - SLX M665 (36/22T double specific)
Rear mech - XT 9 speed long cage
Shifter - LX (old but work well)

All the above (with the exception of the brakes and BB) was bought secondhand. The rest of the kit (post, bars, saddle, grips etc) is basically as cheap as I could source posibly, and the bike has still cost me almost exactly £500, and weighs 13.5kg ish with pedals. Amazing how all the little bits add up (in both respects)

Nice build this! I love the chunky look to the older HardRock frames. New ones look a bit too streamlined for me. Here's my old tank as it stands now. Like the LizardSkins grips and the silver DMRs and that SDG saddle is so comfy :-)

The Rookie

cmachine wrote:

Apparently they are not meant to be taken apart as the plastic tops will testify to as I ripped them to bits.

No need to take them off for most jobs, easy to service, the key is getting them clean and then using the right grease.

cmachine

is it fine to mix say a Shimano Hollowtech II crankset with SRAM cassette and rear mech and shifters or is it best to keep it all Shimano or SRAM/Truativ?

cooldad

Makes no difference as long as the rear mech and shifter match.

cmachine

another n00b question here....do new cranksets normally come with the BB included? I'm coming round to the double idea and now looking at a Shimano Deore M615 10 speed double. If BB included this shaves a bit of cost of the bike.

The Rookie

A complete HT2 crankset comes with a BB yes.

cmachine

Hoped as much ! Main spec is looking pretty much like this now:

Fulcrum Red Power XL Centre-Lock MTB Wheelset 2013
Shimano Deore M610 10 Speed Triple Chainset
SRAM chain, X5 shifters,mechs and rear cassette
Octane One stem and headset
Husslefelt bars

Forks: based on advice in forum looking at pricier RockShox 30 Golds but also found a real bargain on Manitou Marvel Pro 2012 Forks just over £200. Don't want to creep too far over £200 for forks, although most of the better ones seem to be £270-300 (unless I go second hand).

cmachine

After much back and forth and listening to my friends saying "you might as well buy a new bike for the money you are going to spend on that"....I did and bought a brand new Giant Anthem X4 2012 with a few extra bits and bobs, and here it is. However, the Spesh is not dead and is going to be converted into a cheap as chips rock solid commuter bike. Original idea with the Spesh was to go for an old Viceroy BMX chrome/silver & blue which I think I pretty much nailed with the Anthem. Thanks for all the advice.

cmachine

damn they don't make it easy uploading pics on this site!

cmachine

for anyone that's still interested actually went back to this after years and rebuilt the bike. Very happy with the result.

https://flic.kr/p/o8ZLQz
https://flic.kr/p/nZxcL9
https://flic.kr/p/nK636g
https://flic.kr/p/o2zzYZ
https://flic.kr/p/nK6ZQv

jimothy78

That's coming up as "adult content - you must have a Flickr account to view this" - can you alter your settings?

cmachine

Ah damn! Will find another way to post them, on pink bike here, near the bottom: http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomme ... pagenum=36

Londonscottish

cmachine wrote:

Ah damn! Will find another way to post them, on pink bike here, near the bottom: http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomme ... pagenum=36

Is yours the orange one? Looks great like that. I'll rattle can my 2005 Hardrock pub bike at some point. I do like simple paint jobs and minimal decals. Really shows a bike off well.

cmachine

yeah that's it. I loosely based the colour scheme look on on of the Ragley bikes. Powder coat came out well and I kept the decals minimal. Only 2 X S's and hardrock decals. The frames look great with a clean coat of paint on them. Gets quite a few stares too as no-one can figure out what it is. cheers!

jimothy78

Hmm, yeah - might have to repaint mine after seeing some of those.

How hard was it to strip back to the metal (I see elsewhere that some manufacturers are easier than others)?

Londonscottish

cmachine wrote:

yeah that's it. I loosely based the colour scheme look on on of the Ragley bikes. Powder coat came out well and I kept the decals minimal. Only 2 X S's and hardrock decals. The frames look great with a clean coat of paint on them. Gets quite a few stares too as no-one can figure out what it is. cheers!

Yours looks the nuts. Mine looks like a dog's dinner at the moment what with horrendously scratched black paint, old silver wheels, crumbling slicks and blue RST's.....

Still, the drivetrain and brakes are sorted and I've got some s/h black Mavics and new tyres on the way.

Then I'll rattle can it gloss black or matt black and do something similar decal-wise.

The only trouble is that it will looks better/more nickable. Part of me says sort the oily bits but keep it looking like a dog....

As as for a disk brake conversion I saw how cheap a set of Avid Elixir 1's were last night ....noooooooo!!!!! It's a cheap runabout!!!!

Modding is addictive and makes no financial sense. Other than sneaking a decent bike into my possession by stealth of course.

(and, of course, modding frees up parts to build something else - I'll shortly have a spare wheelset, groupset and bars that would pefectly fit a 90's steel MTB....)

Londonscottish

jimothy78 wrote:

Hmm, yeah - might have to repaint mine after seeing some of those.

How hard was it to strip back to the metal (I see elsewhere that some manufacturers are easier than others)?

I'm assuming it's just a case of stripping off most of the components, masking what's left, spending an hour or so with some wet and dry to cut it back. Not forgetting some degreaser. And finding a way of hanging the frame - maybe through the headstock.

Then a few coats of primer.

Then a few of top coat.

Maybe lacquer if you can get that in can form.

It won't look as good as a professional powder coat. Unless you stand across the street squinting a bit at night. In the rain. After a couple of pints.

But for the sake of £20 and an afternoon or two fiddling about it'll do me for what is supposed to be a very cheap bike and one I don't mind leaving out/chipping/scratching,

Powder coating is £70+ plus the time you spend stripping it or the additional ££'s the powder coated would charge for that time.