MTB project

richa
richa Posts: 1,632
edited August 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
I have a couple of old MTBs that I am looking to revive into a hack bike for local bridleways, leaving at the station, riding with my son, etc.

Pictures are here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v6aekjuyy1ztnpv/I8MN-mjbtR

The first 6 pictures are of a blue Scott Peak, the next 5 pictures are of a black Scott Appache (front end damage).

I had the Appache, insurance paid out after a frontal crash so I purchased the Peak. All 10-15 years ago!

Looking to do this on the cheap and have a few queries:
- Is it work swopping Altus for Acera - derailers, chainset, shifters?
- Which brakes are better Direct Pull or Centre Pull? If centre pull can I get something to attach tyhe rear pull from?
- Any other thoughts / advice.

Many thanks.
Rich

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    altus acera are basically the same. use what is in best condition.

    linear pull (V brakes) are the better.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Centre pull are otherwise known as cantilever, not cantilever brakes though for a reason - they are rubbish, stick with V's!

    As Nick says the parts are all much of a muchness, use whatever is in best condition.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    Ive been running Vs on every one of my bikes if had, and have previously had cantilever on some of them, and i can strongly recommend going with V brakes over the cantilevers.

    Ive used both Acera and Altus. I had an Acera rear mech and switched out to an old model (but mint) Deore XT mech and Deore LX shifters and amazingly i prefered having the Acera. Shifting was for whatever reason alot better. Acera is a great bit of kit in my experience. I dont really know if it is worth switching Altus out for Acera as nick said. If you have a surplus of parts then it might be a good idea to leave whats on there now until its all worn and change everything over all at once as it will work better.
  • richa
    richa Posts: 1,632
    Many thanks for the advice. Think I will stick with it as it is. The Altus is in better nick but probably not worth the hassle to do the swap (and I read that cantilever levers are not compatible with V levers).

    Going to clean it all up. Give it a new chain. And get out there and ride it!
    Rich
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Correct the pull ratio is different for canti - levers and V - levers, the 2 don't work well mixed up, theough can be made to work with canti - levers and V's (not other way round where you get even less braking than you didn't get before) just long lever travel.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    I used canti lever brake levers with v brakes for a long while and it worked fine.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    I used canti lever brake levers with v brakes for a long while and it worked fine.
    You must have no appreciation for decent brakes. Lots of people don't, which is why I don't trust anyone's opinions on whether a braking system is any good.

    They do work, as said above, just not exactly optimal.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Cantis are pretty sh1t even with the right levers.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Er, he's using canti brake levers and V brakes (at the wheel end)......

    You get a long lever travel (even worse if the rim is anything but 100% true) and a wooden lever, but they do work.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I was making a general comment on the world in general, generally.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    The Rookie wrote:
    Er, he's using canti brake levers and V brakes (at the wheel end)......

    You get a long lever travel (even worse if the rim is anything but 100% true) and a wooden lever, but they do work.
    yeah, they feel wonky. I wouldn't call it wooden though, more spongy as hell, from very distant memory.
  • richa
    richa Posts: 1,632
    Cant get the pedals off the existing cranks! so looking to swap chainsets. What tool will I need to remove the chainset?

    Photo%2006-08-2013%2021%2017%2051.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5dp0silzuh55u ... 7%2051.jpg
    Rich
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    14mm socket and a crank puller for square taper (but may as well get an ISIS/Octalink/Powerspline compatable one in case you change in the future).

    Pedals are left and right threaded, and they self tighten so you often need a long pedal spanner.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Take the pedals off before you take the cranks off - much easier.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

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