Small amount of freehub play normal?
http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/ducks ... 1.mp4.html
Had a bit of a graunching noise from what seemed like the rear of the bike (instead of BB, no movement in cranks anyway), only when going up steeper sections of roads when mainly in the small chainring.
The freehub seems to have a small amount of play, the video might not show it very well but you can just here the noise as it "waggles" slightly side to side, you can see it move slighty in the flesh though.
Wheels are Dura Ace 9000 C24's.
I've compared them to the old stock wheels from my wifes Allez and that has no movement at all.
Opinions welcome on whether this is normal or not!
Had a bit of a graunching noise from what seemed like the rear of the bike (instead of BB, no movement in cranks anyway), only when going up steeper sections of roads when mainly in the small chainring.
The freehub seems to have a small amount of play, the video might not show it very well but you can just here the noise as it "waggles" slightly side to side, you can see it move slighty in the flesh though.
Wheels are Dura Ace 9000 C24's.
I've compared them to the old stock wheels from my wifes Allez and that has no movement at all.
Opinions welcome on whether this is normal or not!
Cheers, Stu
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all my Mavics have a tiny amount of play...seems to be normal and doesn't effect the ride.
If it starts slipping its worth changing but if not just ride till it dies...
the noise could be the cassette moving slightly on the freehub, or the front ring, or rear mech...load of things really !0 -
I described it as a graunch but thinking about it its more a creak/groan, more so on the pedal down stroke when i guess there is most power/torque going through the drivetrain.Cheers, Stu0
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These things can be adjusted...left the forum March 20230
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I've tried tightening it with an allen key but it seems as tight as it should be ie it wouldnt tighten any more.
Unless i'm doing something wrong that is!Cheers, Stu0 -
duckson wrote:I've tried tightening it with an allen key but it seems as tight as it should be ie it wouldnt tighten any more.
Unless i'm doing something wrong that is!
That's the hub caps, the dura ace also has a way to tighten the cones, which act on the bearings, normally left hand side, probably covered by some kind of sealleft the forum March 20230 -
The Shimano document only seems to show that its tightened via the allen key (5mm) (cone via the cone holding spacer, it doesnt mention anything about tightening this separately?).
No mention of any tool required to tighten the cone etc.
:?Cheers, Stu0 -
I am basing my assumptions on standard DA hubs, not sure about those that come with the DA wheels, but I would assume the hubs can be adjusted for play, as they should be cone/balls. On the Da hubs on the left hand side there is a screw type mechanism that you can do by hand before tightening the capduckson wrote:The Shimano document only seems to show that its tightened via the allen key (5mm) (cone via the cone holding spacer, it doesnt mention anything about tightening this separately?).
No mention of any tool required to tighten the cone etc.
:?left the forum March 20230 -
As ugo said, the hub caps don't tighten the bearings. Don't just tighten it, if the play has been brought about by wear, investigate the bearings/cone surfaces/freehub pawls.
Dismantle the whole thing and re-assemble in the most cleanest of conditions. Wait till the missus is away one day and use the kitchen.
New bearings/cones are not expensive. I am not sure about Shimano but I have only recently replaced the cones which slide off the axle and bearings on my Euruses pretty inexpensively:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000
BTW - my Dura Ace Carbon 1380's (predecessor to the CL42's) do not have that amount of play in them and I have never had to dismantle them.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0 -
Thanks all.
Think i'll just take them back to Merlin rather than start fiddling, only got them in April and done ~1000 miles.Cheers, Stu0 -
duckson wrote:Thanks all.
Think i'll just take them back to Merlin rather than start fiddling, only got them in April and done ~1000 miles.
If it is convenient... adjusting the cones is routine, it's not that the bearings are gone or anythingleft the forum March 20230 -
So all i need is a 5mm allen key, no cone spanner needed?
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... 02-ENG.pdf
This doesnt mention anything about a cone spanner you see!Cheers, Stu0 -
duckson wrote:So all i need is a 5mm allen key, no cone spanner needed?
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... 02-ENG.pdf
This doesnt mention anything about a cone spanner you see!
If you look carefully, the cone is ratcheted... that's the screw type I was talking about, sorry I was not very clear. The cone can be adjusted with that outer ratchet manually. You have to remove the hub cap and the protective cone holding spacer. The mechanism is the same as for normal DA hubs.left the forum March 20230 -
Thanks very much, sounds simple, will have a try myself i think.Cheers, Stu0
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Well got it apart and tightened the cone as much as i could (not that i could move it much) but it seems to have made zero difference.Cheers, Stu0
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duckson wrote:Well got it apart and tightened the cone as much as i could (not that i could move it much) but it seems to have made zero difference.
Then the problem must be in the free hub... take it out
Are you sure it's not the cassette?left the forum March 20230 -
Well the freehub movement is there with the cassette removed.Cheers, Stu0
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duckson wrote:Well the freehub movement is there with the cassette removed.
As you are there, you might as well take the all freehub apart... it might be the freehub bearings gone. Once is out, stick a finger inside and see how they turnleft the forum March 20230
