Crank Removal

iamcami
iamcami Posts: 93
edited September 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Follow up from viewtopic.php?f=20005&t=12933945&p=18461401#p18461401

I'm struggling to remove the crank on my GT Avanlache 1.0 2011.

Can anyone confirm whether these tools should be compatible with the octalink on my GT?

2013-07-31%2020.49.56.jpg

If not, any suggestions on the tools I need?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    nope. wrong puller.

    which cranks do you actually have?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • mattv
    mattv Posts: 992
    If it's octalink you will need a cap over the end of that puller. Sometimes a washer works too.
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    I'm not sure. Octalink?

    2013-07-31%2021.09.24.jpg
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    so you need a octalink extractor plug or an octalink/isis puller.

    have a read on crank removal on Parktools.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    I did read there. I was trying to work out if mine is a self extracting one key one but I doubt it.
    mattv wrote:
    If it's octalink you will need a cap over the end of that puller. Sometimes a washer works too.

    I read something about using a 5p piece with it. Not sure if I should try it though as im not very good at this stuff. Maybe should just get the proper parts.

    Can anyone link me to the tools I need?
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    iamcami wrote:
    no that is the same as you have.

    you need an octalink/isis version like http://www.evanscycles.com/products/top ... r-ec049323
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    LOL, ok Thanks. Ordered. Is that all I need? Just the one part? Will that work with the other part I have above in the OP?
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    So it arrived today.... Can't do anything with it. Think i stripped the thread of my crank using the wrong tool before I realised it was the wrong tool :( Gonna have to figure out how I can get it off now... return the chainset I'd bought and get a octalink crank/chainset

    Now you see why I usually go to halfords :oops:
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    What's the point of buying another Octolink chainset if you can't get the old one off?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    Originally the plan was, to take my octalink off, swap the rings with a square taper I'd bought. But now it seems iv ruined the Octalink. So was just saying I'll need to return the square taper chainset and get an Octalink chainset.

    I googled it and read just cycling it might get it off?

    Any suggestion?

    EDIT: Reading that my BB could be in trouble getting this crank/chainset off? The BB is brand new. That would suck!

    I'm thinking i'll take it to Halfords and get them to remove it for me as labour is part of the care plan i have. Just need to figure out what replacement i need. Halfords don't seem to have any replacements for my bike on their website.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The original tool can't have stripped the threads in the crank as it had nothing to apply any load with (being small enough to go up the axle).

    What is ACTUALLY happening? You back the centre right in, screw the barrel ALL the way into the crank arm and then wiond the centre portion in to pop it off, Octalink don't need much force at all (compared to square taper).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    I "screw the barrel" all the way in, I use a spanner to get it as tight as I can. The I wind the centre portion with the Tool in the OP and instead of the crank popping off, the "barrel" I just tightened with the spanner pops off.

    I think I wrecked the threads with the barrel on my square taper tool in the OP. I'd done my road bike with that tool a few months ago when the chain was stuck and it worked. Obivously my road bike must be square taper... So because I had success I was convinced it should work, so tightened it like fuck before I realised it was the wrong tool.
  • pete_s
    pete_s Posts: 213
    Are you using the correct tip supplied with the tool? Before screwing anything in get each tip and see how it fits in to the cranks. It needs to push against the BB axel.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    Sounds like stripped threads to me... before i had a crank puller i used a flathead and a hammer to get my old crank off the BB. Wouldnt really recommend that though, only as a last resort. The crank puller tool can sometimes be a bastad to get in, and the threads on some cranks can be very easily damaged. So perhaps you may have screwed it in a bit wonky with the original tool and damaged the threads. But then again if it is screwing all the way in with the new tool then i dont see why the "barrell" is coming off. I say take it down to the LBS or Halfords and let them have a look and possibly remove it. Not much point trying anything else if its already damaged, you will end up doing more damage and wasting time.
  • I7 Extreme
    I7 Extreme Posts: 228
    I've got the same problem with the same shimano octalink crank, I used the 5p method to get the crank off, worked fine with the drive side but striped some of the thread. so i bought a new octalink crank extractor and the thread is completely F*cked. How should I take it off? Hammer? put the other side back on and ride? or buy a tap and try recut the thread?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Hammer and wooden drift.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    hmmmm so after Halfords having it for about 2 weeks i rang them up, they said they'd lost my number... they also said the threads are fine but they couldn't get them off either due to it being an American model or some rubbish like that... i got it off wiggle. so basically they've done nothing.
  • I7 Extreme
    I7 Extreme Posts: 228
    The hammer method worked fine for me
  • iamcami
    iamcami Posts: 93
    Finally... so after speaking to the sole bike mechanic, it seems the threads were indeed stripped, I think he had to get inventive to get them off. I've ended up with a Shimano Alivio M410 for £30. They claimed it was half price due to the communication trouble and time they took. It's available for £35 from CRC, so don't believe them but happy enough that I can get back out on it. :)
  • Undo the bolt, go for a half decent ride round for half an hour not to far from home. As soon as it wiggles loose, which it will, stop riding and remove it
    2011 carrera fury
    2012 20" onza genesis trials bike
    2014 carrera virtuoso road bike
  • Thanks but a wee bit late. :P Like I said, the guy in Halfords did it. Think he used a car tool and a hammer.Also think he was a little destructive but glad it's done and I'm back in business.