Yet another wheelbuild issue!
OK, so in the winter I decided to build myself a Kaffenback-based, disc-braked "wet/winter" bike. By the time it was built up properly, I was back out on my good bike and the Kaffenback reduced to mainly turbo-trainer work (I'm nervous about my carbon frame on turbo trainer).
As part of the project, I decided to have a go at building my own wheelset. Downloaded the wheelpro book. Read through a few times, bought the parts (36 spoke Mavic T223 rims on Deore M252 hubs with DT Comp 2mm-1.8mm-2mm spokes) and generally took my time (built my own stand etc etc). I managed to build two round things, which felt strong and true and I thought I'd done an OK job.
One of the few occasions where I took the bike into work, I realised that the rear wheel wasn't dished enough - it appeared to be off-centre toward the non-drive side. After a while, I also realised that the wheel was out of true. So I did what I always do when there is a job needing done that I don't want to do, and don't need to do urgently...I forgot about it...
...until this weekend, I finally decided to have a look again. I trued up the wheel and am happy with that but right enough, the dish is out by about 3-4mm. Also, out of curiosity more than anything, I borrowed a colleagues spoke tension meter (Park Took TM-1). I'm fairly happy with the relative tension of the spokes. However, when I look at the conversion table, the driveside spokes all come in around the 25-26 mark and for 1.8mm spokes that is off the scale. I couldn't find a recommended tension for these rims and I am concerned that I have well over-tightened them.
So, to cut to the chase, I have these main questions...
- Can the wheel dish be "fixed" without a complete rebuild. (i.e. by loosening off the spokes, more on the non-drive side - can't tighten as it is already too tight)
- Tension - how reliable is the TM-1? With double-butted spokes, should I take the smaller (1.8mm) or larger (2mm) value? My impression from the Park Tool website is the smaller. The non-drive side is currently fairly loose, I'm concerned that loosening further would leave it a bit too loose.
- Does anyone know the recommended tension for the Mavic T223 rim? The author of the wheelpro book mentions that he tensions all wheels to about 130kgf (except the Notubes ZTR rims which he does to 95kgf)
As part of the project, I decided to have a go at building my own wheelset. Downloaded the wheelpro book. Read through a few times, bought the parts (36 spoke Mavic T223 rims on Deore M252 hubs with DT Comp 2mm-1.8mm-2mm spokes) and generally took my time (built my own stand etc etc). I managed to build two round things, which felt strong and true and I thought I'd done an OK job.
One of the few occasions where I took the bike into work, I realised that the rear wheel wasn't dished enough - it appeared to be off-centre toward the non-drive side. After a while, I also realised that the wheel was out of true. So I did what I always do when there is a job needing done that I don't want to do, and don't need to do urgently...I forgot about it...
...until this weekend, I finally decided to have a look again. I trued up the wheel and am happy with that but right enough, the dish is out by about 3-4mm. Also, out of curiosity more than anything, I borrowed a colleagues spoke tension meter (Park Took TM-1). I'm fairly happy with the relative tension of the spokes. However, when I look at the conversion table, the driveside spokes all come in around the 25-26 mark and for 1.8mm spokes that is off the scale. I couldn't find a recommended tension for these rims and I am concerned that I have well over-tightened them.
So, to cut to the chase, I have these main questions...
- Can the wheel dish be "fixed" without a complete rebuild. (i.e. by loosening off the spokes, more on the non-drive side - can't tighten as it is already too tight)
- Tension - how reliable is the TM-1? With double-butted spokes, should I take the smaller (1.8mm) or larger (2mm) value? My impression from the Park Tool website is the smaller. The non-drive side is currently fairly loose, I'm concerned that loosening further would leave it a bit too loose.
- Does anyone know the recommended tension for the Mavic T223 rim? The author of the wheelpro book mentions that he tensions all wheels to about 130kgf (except the Notubes ZTR rims which he does to 95kgf)
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