Replacement disc brake pads

Initialised
Initialised Posts: 3,047
edited March 2014 in Commuting general
OK so my brake pads lasted three months or 2500 miles, a now they need replacing. Reading the user review threads suggests this is good but most of my riding is on the road rather than dusty trails. I was expecting great more like 5000 miles before replacement pads. I tend to top 40 mph almost daily and like late, hard braking

I'm running Avid BB5 road calipers so my options appear to be:

Clarke £4.99
Avid Organic £11.50
Nukeproof Trail £10
Nukeproof Enduro £13

So does anyone have any comparative data, like a stopping distance or hysteresis curve for the different pads?

Also how regularly do other road riders with discs replace pads maybe with different calipers but longer replacement intervals an upgrade could pay for itself?
I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.

Comments

  • Barteos
    Barteos Posts: 657
    I'd get some sintered metal pads. They last longer.
    Even better, upgrade to BB7s for much better adjustment and larger pads.

    http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Baradine-Avid-B ... tAodVH0ABQ

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ds&_sop=15
  • raymondo60
    raymondo60 Posts: 735
    edited July 2013
    Wow - you got 2500 miles from your pads? Just replaced my Avid BB7 pads after approx 1400 miles - they were not quite down to the metal but very close. They were also the orignal pads so can't verify the quality etc. Replaced wth the Avid Organic so will be interesting to see how long they last. Fitted to a CX bike, which covers a lot of towpath/trails, which I guess could increase the wear rate. I think you've done jolly well to get the mileage you say you have......
    Raymondo

    "Let's just all be really careful out there folks!"
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    Superstar organic pads last for ages in my Shimano mech discs and provide more than enough stopping power in all conditions.
    http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Just checked, definitely 2500 miles. AVID BB5 Road - Stock pads

    Ordered some Baradine Sintered pads (£7 a pair) will see how I get on with them.

    Would be good to use this thread as a database for discs on the road/commute, I'm sure there's plenty of data for mud pluggers but they are still fairly rare on road bikes.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Disc brakes on mine, bought used, bike has completed 3000 miles and I'd had to replace the front pads only
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    The Rookie wrote:
    Disc brakes on mine, bought used, bike has completed 3000 miles and I'd had to replace the front pads only
    Which calipers and which pads?
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • essex-commuter
    essex-commuter Posts: 2,188
    Superstars are really good, not expensive either.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Initialised wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    Disc brakes on mine, bought used, bike has completed 3000 miles and I'd had to replace the front pads only
    Which calipers and which pads?
    Clarkes CMD-8 (lightweight!) and stock organic pads.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • steviecfb
    steviecfb Posts: 31
    Is it rude to hijack threads? If so, sorry (Don't blame it on the sunshine/Don't blame it on the moonlight/Don't blame it on the good times/Blame it on the newbie).

    But - I'd like to (learn how to) replace the pads in my disc brakes, pending the arrival of the new bike :)

    I have Shimano BR-M375-L brakes on a Scott Sportster 55 and, looking at the online information, I can't see any indication of what size/shape/sort of pads (http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 745423.pdf)

    Looking at the links posted above, I can't see anything to suggest different sorts of pads for different sorts of brakes, yet I'd have thought that would be the case. So ...

    Does this mean there's only one size of pad, and the difference is the material it's made of?
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Another thread jack.

    Which pads for shimano BR - 505 mechanical road disc brakes?

    And also Shimano BR 515?
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    I found a guide through the SRAM/Avid website.

    Finding replacement pads is just a case of Googleing the caliper model and pads.

    I found the Baradine pads OK, a little noisy at first but modulation is great. I seem to have developed a slight warp in the front rotor so I'm having to run it a little looser than I like but still managed to lock the front wheel on dirt last night.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    BB-7s still going strong at 2600 miles on original pads
    Winter Hack
    Everyday Commuter
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Holy thread resurrection!

    I've been running the Baradine Sintered pads since September, (another ~2500 miles) I have some organics waiting but they are still going strong.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    changed original pads after 3200 miles but will keep them as spare, as there is still a mm (according to BB-7 info) of wear left on them
    Winter Hack
    Everyday Commuter
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    It looks like I wont get to use my next set of pads as I have a Parabox R2 hydraulic conversion kit on order. I thought I'd last more than a year before upgrading to hydraulics but after spending some quality time one wet'n'orrible trails over the last couple of weeks on my MTB I realise how much better even cheap hydros are.

    It looks like we're some way toward a consensus on this.

    Start checking your pads after 2000 miles but you may get 3000 miles or more.

    Use this link to check what pads you need: http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/images/e ... ifiier.jpg
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    How come you chose the parabox rather than the Hy-Rd calipers?
    Neeermad
    Carbon 456
    456 lefty
    Pompino
    White Inbred
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Flexibility.

    When hydraulic levers come to market at sensible prices all I'll need is the levers (I'll leave enough tubing to fit). On the other hand, I can change the callipers to something different or better without too much hassle. As I understand it they are based on TRP Dash so not the best but reliable so long as you bed them in properly and use the same pads as my MTB's Auriga Comp meaning I already have spares (this applies it HYRDs too).
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    don't see any need to change to hydro; the BB7 has more than enough stopping power on skinny tyres but have swapped to organic pads this time round.

    They already appear to have bedded in and sound so much quieter than the OEM pads, time will tell in terms of longevity.
    Winter Hack
    Everyday Commuter
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    So this morning I punctured, big 5mm diameter screw with a drill type bit on the end, a self tapper that makes it's own pilot hole I think. I doubt it a car tyre would withstand it. When I got the wheel back on I couldn't eliminate squeal, I stopped a few times and made it better but it's still rubbing a bit. With Hydros they self align so there's less faffing about getting the QR pressure just so.

    My Parabox can't be here soon enough.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • jonnyboy77
    jonnyboy77 Posts: 547
    Just got some Nukeproof Trail pads to replace a set of quickly worn out pads I picked up from a LBS less than 6 months ago!

    I haven't made a note of how many miles the last set did, but I will with these. They're paired with a Shimano BR-M486 Hydraulic Disc setup from my old MTB after the Juicy 3's died (seized piston).

    I seem to be heavy on my brakes though, especially now my commute goes through central london, lots of stopping & starting - I could probably smooth it out a little

    - jon
    Commuting between Twickenham <---> Barbican on my trusty Ridgeback Hybrid - url=http://strava.com/athletes/125938/badge]strava[/url
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    gbsahne wrote:
    don't see any need to change to hydro; the BB7 has more than enough stopping power on skinny tyres but have swapped to organic pads this time round.

    The organics don't seem to have as much stopping power as the OEM pads, I thought they were meant to be better at stopping but will wear quicker
    Winter Hack
    Everyday Commuter

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