Potential Ultegra Upgrade - Help
triggmiester
Posts: 197
Hi All
I have a Canyon Roadlite with full Ultegra - 50/34 and 12/25
I want to upgrade the front chainrings to a double rather than the compact, should I be going for a 52/39 or a 53/39? how much difference is there?
Also,as I am going to a double on the front should I change the rear cassette to help with the hills (I ride in the Cotswold, so cannot avoid them!) maybe a 11-28?
Any advice is appreciated
I have a Canyon Roadlite with full Ultegra - 50/34 and 12/25
I want to upgrade the front chainrings to a double rather than the compact, should I be going for a 52/39 or a 53/39? how much difference is there?
Also,as I am going to a double on the front should I change the rear cassette to help with the hills (I ride in the Cotswold, so cannot avoid them!) maybe a 11-28?
Any advice is appreciated
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Comments
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triggmiester wrote:Hi All
I have a Canyon Roadlite with full Ultegra - 50/34 and 12/25
I want to upgrade the front chainrings to a double rather than the compact, should I be going for a 52/39 or a 53/39? how much difference is there?
Why upgrade? Difference is 1 tooth.triggmiester wrote:Also,as I am going to a double on the front should I change the rear cassette to help with the hills (I ride in the Cotswold, so cannot avoid them!) maybe a 11-28?
Any advice is appreciated
Which begs the question why do you want to "upgrade" the compact to a double?WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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triggmiester wrote:Hi All
I have a Canyon Roadlite with full Ultegra - 50/34 and 12/25
I want to upgrade the front chainrings to a double rather than the compact, should I be going for a 52/39 or a 53/39? how much difference is there? [/quote[
1 tooth. - Seriously, that's it.Also,as I am going to a double on the front should I change the rear cassette to help with the hills (I ride in the Cotswold, so cannot avoid them!) maybe a 11-28?
Yes you could change to a double and then change the cassette to 11-28. OR; you could stick with your compact, save a lot of expense and get the same result in the end :?0 -
@drlodge
I am thinking about upgrading as I think my compact is limiting me speed on the flat when I am out on our 'quick' club run. A fellow members suggested I should think about going bigger. Just wanted other people opinions......
Surely going from 50/34 to a 52-53/39 is a difference of 2/3 teeth?0 -
Changing the 12t cog at the back to an 11t will give you the greatest improvement and for the lowest cost. Personally I'd go for an 11-27 or similar at the back and keep the chainset at the front. I race on a 52/34 and 11-27 both on the flat and in hilly areas.0
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I suspect what is limiting you on the flat is your ability / willingness to pedal quickly. At a cadence of 100 rpm with 50 x 12 you'll be doing about 32mph. If you really want to change something then fit a cassette with an 11t sprocket which would take you to 35mph for the same cadence.
Just how fast are you wanting to go?0 -
triggmiester wrote:@drlodge
I am thinking about upgrading as I think my compact is limiting me speed on the flat when I am out on our 'quick' club run. A fellow members suggested I should think about going bigger. Just wanted other people opinions......
Surely going from 50/34 to a 52-53/39 is a difference of 2/3 teeth?
A compact will limit your speed only if you are out pedalling the top gear, which I doubt happens very often. As said above, the cheapest way to fix that is to go with an 11T-xxT cassette.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
We have a couple of youth racers out on our club runs. They are limited to what gears they can use (rules) which essentially means they have to run in the small chainring at the front (all the time). None of them fail to keep up.
Even with a compact small front (34) you can go along on the flat at around 25mph depending on your cadence.
If you truly are topping out on 50/12 you need to consider a career as a pro-cyclist.
Moral of the story is work on your cadence.Yellow is the new Black.0 -
Exactly. You could ride along in the tour peleton on a compact if you wanted to.
You need to pedal faster - not spend money. Simples.0 -
triggmiester wrote:@drlodge
I am thinking about upgrading as I think my compact is limiting me speed on the flat when I am out on our 'quick' club run. A fellow members suggested I should think about going bigger. Just wanted other people opinions......
Surely going from 50/34 to a 52-53/39 is a difference of 2/3 teeth?0 -
GiantMike wrote:Changing the 12t cog at the back to an 11t will give you the greatest improvement and for the lowest cost. Personally I'd go for an 11-27 or similar at the back and keep the chainset at the front. I race on a 52/34 and 11-27 both on the flat and in hilly areas.
I disagree. An 11 tooth rear cog is useless for all but the very strongest and best riders.
The OP doesn't sound like that person.
Also "GiantMike" what front D are you using that works reliably with a 18 tooth difference in chainrings(52-34)? You're pushing the limits me thinks?0