Changing from Tiagra 9sp to 105 10sp cassette

joemillis
joemillis Posts: 2
edited July 2013 in Workshop
Hi

I'd like to change my 9sp Tiagra cassette to a 10sp 105 one. Is it worth it? I have Tiagra Shifters, a 105 rear derailleur and a triple chainset.

All advice gratefully received.

Joe

Comments

  • Are your shifters 10 speed? If not it's a futile exercise.
  • startern
    startern Posts: 175
    Bit pointless going Tiagra -> 105.

    If you change cassette (9 -> 10) then you have to change shifters (Tiagra -> 105) as a minimum. And then if you do that your group won't be happy unless you change the brakes and gear mechs too because that is the recommended configuration to use with 10 Speed 105 shifters. So effectively means new groupset entirely.
  • gozzy
    gozzy Posts: 640
    startern wrote:
    Bit pointless going Tiagra -> 105.

    If you change cassette (9 -> 10) then you have to change shifters (Tiagra -> 105) as a minimum. And then if you do that your group won't be happy unless you change the brakes and gear mechs too because that is the recommended configuration to use with 10 Speed 105 shifters. So effectively means new groupset entirely.



    Actually you're correct in having to change shifters, except Tiagra 4600 is 10 speed, so you don't need to go 105 to get 10 speed.

    Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the recommended configuration, brakes will be fine, and mechs generally don't care what speed chain you use. According to Sheldon you might find the front mech finickety if you used a 10 speed mech with 9 speed chain, but I wouldn't worry too much about using a narrower chain on a wider mech..
  • wakou
    wakou Posts: 165
    I have done this, no probs, just chain, cassette, brifter. Mechs work fine. Brakes? Why would that even be considered an issue?
    "I had righteous got my wheel backmost from a fettlin' at the LBS and was hunt transport to equitation it. As it was Refrigerated in the AM......"
  • wakou
    wakou Posts: 165
    Gozzy wrote:
    According to Sheldon you might find the front mech finickety if you used a 10 speed mech with 9 speed chain, but I wouldn't worry too much about using a narrower chain on a wider mech..

    If using 9 spd front mech with 10sp chain, you have to dial it in fairly precise, the 10spd chain is narrower, so you have to be exact, but mine works fine.
    "I had righteous got my wheel backmost from a fettlin' at the LBS and was hunt transport to equitation it. As it was Refrigerated in the AM......"
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    I made the same change and only changed the shifters, chain and cassette all worked perfectly, upgraded the other bits as they wore out.

    I much prefer the look of the hidden cables.
  • startern
    startern Posts: 175
    Flasher wrote:
    I made the same change and only changed the shifters, chain and cassette all worked perfectly, upgraded the other bits as they wore out.

    I much prefer the look of the hidden cables.

    How did you set up the rear brake cable with the concealed Shimano shifter?
    On mine the friction to the rear it seems is so great that the rear brake feels kind of sticky and unresponsive compared to the front.
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    startern wrote:
    How did you set up the rear brake cable with the concealed Shimano shifter?
    On mine the friction to the rear it seems is so great that the rear brake feels kind of sticky and unresponsive compared to the front.

    Just as you would set up any other brake.

    Try this, disconnect the cable from the rear brake and try the brake leaver if it pulls the cable smooth it's a brake issue, if not it could be that the routing is too tight, or there's a burr in the cable housing causing an obstruction.
  • startern
    startern Posts: 175
    Yes probably this.
    For now I'm leaving it, hopefully repeated pulls will wear the cable on the inside sufficiently enough to get a more responsive feedback from the brake. Who knows.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    Personally - having established that it's definately the cable and not the brake - if it's really noticeable I'd put some dry lube down the cable ... if it continues then look at replacing the cable for one that's smoother ... hopefully you won't need to replace the outer!