XTR discs going from 160 to 203
bazzer2
Posts: 189
info: Front brake, lightweight XC (Iron horse Prodigy frame) full sus with 4" travel, on lumpy woodland single track stuff most of the time. XT and XTR mix. 160 XTR front and back.
My motivation for this is I have noticed on long descents the front fades and the lever comes back to the bar a fair way, even with new fluid and bleeding.
So I have a bracket for my brakes to space the caliper out, but not spent on the rotor yet (as they're not exactly cheap!) I wondered if anyone else has gone from 160 to 203? How does this affect the characteristics - is it that you can happliy use a single finger to scrub speed etc?
My motivation for this is I have noticed on long descents the front fades and the lever comes back to the bar a fair way, even with new fluid and bleeding.
So I have a bracket for my brakes to space the caliper out, but not spent on the rotor yet (as they're not exactly cheap!) I wondered if anyone else has gone from 160 to 203? How does this affect the characteristics - is it that you can happliy use a single finger to scrub speed etc?
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Comments
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203mm rotors will offer substantially improved performance, but a few people don't like the increased power. I for one swear by them, but then I'm a big ol' unit.
What are the brakes, are they the XT 785, or XTR 985 versions? Finned pads? If so, you shouldn't be getting much, if any fade at all.
Maybe a good bleed is all they need (emphasis on the word "good")0 -
If the lever comes back to the bar it's not brake fade, overheating the pads won't do that, that has to be overheating the fluid/trapped water or air in the system. A larger disc will not make a huge difference to that.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Its not heat from the disc causing your problem. Sounds like they need a service.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350
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The Beginner wrote:If the lever comes back to the bar it's not brake fade, overheating the pads won't do that, that has to be overheating the fluid/trapped water or air0
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See, I could understand if there might have been a gibbon setting the brakes up in the first instance, but there wasn't. It's set up perfectly, new Shimano blood in there and when they're cold, they're ok. My line of thought is that the smallish disc can't dissipate enough heat to stop the caliper (and thus the fluid) getting hot to the point where it causes issues.
Bigger disc - more metal - cools off quicker etc. If the moment of the lever is further away it won't require as much force to turn (or in this case stop), no?0 -
That can't be right. My Deore brakes with 160 rotors have plenty of power and dont suffer fade, even on long fast descents.. XTR's should be even better.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350
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Which model XT/R?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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M975 XTR0
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If the lever comes back to the bar it's not brake fade, overheating the pads won't do that, that has to be overheating the fluid/trapped water or air in the system. A larger disc will not make a huge difference to that
But that heat is transferred to the fluid from the rotor...
That is a bit amiss, those brakes weren't all that, but assuming you're not either huge or riding Alpine descents they should be fine.
If you do it you'll have more power and less modulation.0 -
bazzer2 wrote:M975 XTR0
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njee20 wrote:But that heat is transferred to the fluid from the rotor...
Bigger discs help with fade, improvement at the flluid is marginal (though not zero) as the same heat has to be generated at the friction interface for the same retardation.....
I still think bazzer needs to address root cause first.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0