Drop bar cyclocross to flat bar commuter

atcoboy
atcoboy Posts: 2
edited August 2013 in The workshop
First ever post, so please excuse my lack of knowledge.

I have a Planet X Uncle John which at the moment have drop bars. My back and knees are starting to play up a little, so I need to get a more comfortable riding position. I would like to convert the bike to a flat bar fast commuter. I will be commuting 10 miles each way to work when I can get the new set up organised.

The current kit is:
SRAM rival full group set, 20 speed
Finishing kit is all ritchey wcs
The brakes are cyclocross frog leg style, centre pull

Can someone give me any advice on how to change the kit over, and the bits I need to get this working right.
Really need advice on specific levers, shifters, etc...

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

atcoboy

Comments

  • If you want to stick with SRAM:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=31542

    Matched with SRAM BL700 brake levers

    You may also need to get a longer stem to compensate for the change in position, and will also depend on whether you gets a straight or riser bar.

    Assuming you've got cable cutters it's a fairly straightforward process. Remove all existing cables and outers for brakes and mechs. Take off drop handlebars and replace with the straight ones. Install new shifters and brakes, then cable inners and outers (make sure the gear shifters are set at the right position for this - should get the details with the shifter instructions), then adjust cable tension to ensure smooth shifting (see Park Tools website for info).

    It's also worthwhile getting ergo bar ends to give you a choice of hand positions, like the Crane Creek ergo grips or the Ergon bar ends.

    I did the same thing a couple of months back on a road bike that was too bike for me and its great for riding around town, and i prefer it to the drop bar bike for Commuting (although not as good forward weight distribution going up very steep hills compared to my road bike).

    Finally, sell the original STI shifters to pay for the above!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Be aware that flat bar bikes tend to have longer top tubes than drops, so you may have to juggle with stem lengths to get it right, or may not get it right at all, although I know someone who commutes on a DJ with flats.

    I have SRAM twist shifters on my commuter as I like the reduced bar clutter (and sticky outy hooky on random stuff levers that are more easily damaged - especailly in an off) over triggers, they are lighter as well!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • andrepepe
    andrepepe Posts: 35
    Hello,

    I'm looking to do the reverse! I've got a Giant Rapid One and I would like to have dropbars! It's comfortable and good for city... but not so good for long rides!
    Actual ride: Kona Satori 2012
    Custom Kona Dew Plus 2008

    Previous rides:
    - Giant Rapid One (Broken in a accident)
    - Scott Genius MC40 (Stolen)
    - Orange Sub-Five (Broke the frame)
    - Orange G3 (Sold)
    - Orange Crush (Sold)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    As above, you may have an issue with bike length, why not drop the bars right down instead (flipped stem, no spacers and flat bars) which is what I have on mine, I also use the inboard part of the bars for better aero and lower stance at speed.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jomoj
    jomoj Posts: 777
    why not try fitting a shorter and / or higher rise (or adjustable) stem and see if that gives you a more upright position before splashing a lot of money on parts? You could also consider a bar like the on-one Midge which will give you some of the advantages of the a drop and flat bar combined, they look a bit odd but they're actually pretty good and you can run your drop bar levers on them.

    As for your knees, a change in handlebar position isn't likely to make much difference, its more likely that your saddle height, angle, fore and aft setting, length of cranks and pedal / shoe setup will make the improvement there
  • jomoj wrote:
    why not try fitting a shorter and / or higher rise (or adjustable) stem and see if that gives you a more upright position before splashing a lot of money on parts? You could also consider a bar like the on-one Midge which will give you some of the advantages of the a drop and flat bar combined, they look a bit odd but they're actually pretty good and you can run your drop bar levers on them.

    As for your knees, a change in handlebar position isn't likely to make much difference, its more likely that your saddle height, angle, fore and aft setting, length of cranks and pedal / shoe setup will make the improvement there

    +1
  • jomoj
    jomoj Posts: 777
    ..and one more thing - you might find a flat bar relieves your back but in my experience its more tiring for the shoulders and arms since your elbows are forced to rotate out.

    FWIW I tried a flat bar setup on a road frame for a cx / commuter bike and ultimately found it was compromised. I had to put a really long stem on to get a decent position and it generally just felt wrong so I reverted to drops with a shorter stem flipped to get some more height
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    jomoj wrote:
    ..and one more thing - you might find a flat bar relieves your back but in my experience its more tiring for the shoulders and arms since your elbows are forced to rotate out.
    I switched my MTB style flats for On-One Marys and cured this problem.