New chain.. and cassette?

dfriel2

Finally got round to getting the right tool and measuring the chain. It's 1% (at least!) worn. I've done quite a few miles since having the bike (a Specialized Secteur) so no great surprise and should have checked earlier. Will replace with a KMC, or presumably a similar shimano chain would suffice? And is there a forum chain recommendation?

The rear cassette is a Sunrace 8 speed. Given the extent of chain wear, would a cassette replacement be worthwhile? Nothing has been slipping...

Anonymous

Hi, I would replace both and upgrade to better quality.
Not because the ones you have are bad, just that you are spending money anyway and a little extra will give a nicer ride.
Chains and cassettes are where bike companies often save money, so the ones on there are probably lower spec'd than the other components.

Sorry, not familiar with your kit so cannot recommend anything.
What groupset is it? Why not just get matching chain/cassette.

I have just upped my chain from Ultegra to DA and it feels a lot smoother.
Stuck with Ultegra cassette this time due to cost, but will go full DA next time.
Think you are meant to put new chainrings on with the third chain/cassette.

Zendog1

As a very rough guide you should need to replace the cassette every third chain.

I'd fit the new chain and if the shifting is smooth enough leave it at that.

Sprool

...IF you change the chain in time (not wait till 1% stretch reached) you should get 3:1 chains to cassette, but if the chain's worn over the 0.75% then the cassette teeth get a hammering. I thought my chain was ok but its gone to probably about 0.85. Fitting a new chain I'm now getting slippage on the cassette cogs no. 2 and 3 in particular, so I have to assume they are too worn. Note: shifting is smooth and fine, but I keep getting slippage on the teeth at low torque. New cassette ordered.

keef66

If it's worn beyond 1% then you may have worn the cassette significantly. Although IME 8 speed stuff is a lot sturdier than 10 speed, so you may be lucky. Easiest to replace the chain first and see how it runs. If the cassette teeth are worn the chain will tend to jump forward on the teeth, especially when you're putting extra strain through it, eg setting off, standing in the pedals climbing.

Replacing my (10 speed) chains promptly means I am still using the original cassette after 4 chains / 5000 miles.

8 speed chains are a lot cheaper than 10s.

Remember you'll have to shorten the new chain to the correct length and join it correctly. So you'll need a chain tool. I'd also recommend a KMC chain so you get a missing link to easily join it. Makes future removal easier too/

Sprool

keef66 wrote:

...I'd also recommend a KMC chain so you get a missing link to easily join it. Makes future removal easier too/

Sram chains come with similar powerlink fixing so you can join and separate the chain for maintenance without needing a special tool, though you still need a punch to shorten the chain to the correct length.

dfriel2

Thanks for comments. KMC chain arrived.. very easy to adjust and fit. Showed that the rear cassette was excessively worn as it jumped straightaway. LBS fitted a shimano replacement earlier and all sorted now. Will take more care with the chain in future!