Fulcrum Racing Zero, Racing 1, or Racing 3?

insanibasha Posts: 25
edited July 2013 in Road general
I'm looking for a wheel set upgrade and fulcrum got my attention, I've chosen 3 models; The racing 1, zero, and 3. Which wheel is good for sprinting and going on constant speed, and not so much climbing. I'm also asking which of these wheel sets are smoother, and what are their advantages over the other. Which one has the most bang for your buck, and which one will last longer. thoughts on the racing zero in particular, coz that is the model that I really want.


  • DavidJB
    DavidJB Posts: 2,019
    I've had the racing one and racing 5.

    The racing ones were a bit faster and stiffer over the 5's but the main saving was weight, sprinting you'd probably wan't some light deep sections...tubulars?

    Good all round wheels but I wouldn't race on them. But they are awesome and bomb proof for normal riding.
  • domgears
    domgears Posts: 135
    I have had 3s a few years ago, I have the Zeros now, use them for my daily commute.

    If you can afford them then go for the Zeros, if you go for the lower models then you will always wonder if the Zeros would have been better.

    There is little difference between the 1s and the Zeros, only weight and CULT bearings, I feel the CULT bearings are worth it.

    Don't bother with 2 way fit unless you really really want to go tubeless, I paired my Zeros with Conti Attack/Force tires and conti lightweight tubes (45g each).

    If you look around online you can get a pretty good deal on the Zeros, these are the ones I got, at the time they were the cheapest I could find them, not sure if you can get them any cheaper now, also note, no point paying extra for the limited editions, it is only paint jobs and make sure you get the 2013s as they have a large flange.

    http://jedi-sports.de/Wheelsets/Wheelse ... :4357.html
  • DavidJB
    DavidJB Posts: 2,019
    domgears wrote:
    large flange.

    :lol::lol::lol: :twisted:
  • mamba80
    mamba80 Posts: 5,032
    I have the 0's & they dont have CULT bearings, they ve a much cheaper ceramic ball - USB- running in std steel cups, ime they run rougher than a steel bearing, as fitted to a friends R1, the hubs are lighter but both wheels use the same rims - which will cost you at least £200 to replace, per wheel :(

    Save your money and get some hand built wheels - for £700 you could have some unique and rebuildable wheels, even Tubulars :)))).