Prefered Friction Paste for Fitting Reverb to Heckler Frame

dynamis_dk
dynamis_dk Posts: 428
edited July 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Got my Reverb delivered today and ran over the fitting guide real quick to notice I can't use standard grease.

I understand I need some Friction paste of some kind but I'm not 100% if there are specific types for use with Alu / Carbon parts or if they are all basically the same. I'll be passing a J E James tomorrow or Halfords if I must so are they all the same or is one more suited to the application than others?

Also, do we recommend a QR or ditching it for a allen key fitting seatpost collar?

Tacx - http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/tacx-car ... 37232.html

Morgan Blue - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_228374

Comments

  • ricardo_smooth
    ricardo_smooth Posts: 1,281
    my Nomad c came with a sachet of finish line stuff, so probably anything that's branded 'carbon friction paste' or similar will be fine. I ditched the QR collar as I didn't see the need for it anymore.

    As yours is ally framed. I'd be using normal teflon type grease (that's what Stif used on my reverb with an ally framed Nomad when that was built by them)
  • dynamis_dk
    dynamis_dk Posts: 428
    The fitting manual specifically says DO NOT use grease, use friction paste - I'd never heard of it before reading it today (maybe as I've never had anything carbon). I get the general idea is to allow a lower clamping force as not to crush the reverb tube.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    No need to ditch the QR - you'll use it every now and again. I use finish line friction paste. just be careful you dont overtighten the clamp. You can easily screw the reverb doing that.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    The idea behind the friction paste is to stop you having to overtighten the seat clamp beyond the torque recommended on the seat post and not have the seat post move on you.

    I slightly over tightened mine when I first fitted the seat post, it basically stopped the seat post from working smoothly!

    I had a search on the net and someone had experimented with torque settings on the seat clamp with a reverb, and it only took 2 nm over the recommended setting to stop the post moving smoothly.

    I bought a hope bolted seat clamp which has an alloy bolt, the idea being the bolt will fail before a wreck my £300 seat post.

    Had no issues at all so far.
  • dynamis_dk
    dynamis_dk Posts: 428
    Any suggestion for the right clamping force for a QR?

    My thoughts on a NON-QR was so I can torque it right as I'm not sure how to make sure I don't damage the post with the QR
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    impossible to say. and the idea f stating a suitable force is no applicable. as there are too many variables that effect the actual force exerted on the tube.

    a toque figure is only for the threaded joint.

    the clamping force (which can not be measured easily) as to many variables. grease on threads or not. diameter of clamp. and thread pitch.

    so back to your question as tight as needed to stop it slipping.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dynamis_dk
    dynamis_dk Posts: 428
    Guest I'll just take it steady with the ham fisted tightening routine :)

    Cheers for the advice as always guys