Gios Compact Pro

dennisn
dennisn Posts: 10,601
edited July 2013 in Your road bikes


10 year (or so) old Gios. Still my main bike and ridden daily(well every other day or so).
DA7900 drive train.
DA9000 brakes.
Lugged steel frame and chrome fork.
Ultegra carbon pedals.
Easton carbon seatpost.
Ritchey WCS carbon bar.
Sella Italia XC SL Flow saddle.
Tufo Elite Ride 700X25 tubular clinchers.
Velocity rims and DA hubs.
Cork tape.
VDO computer(a real cheapie, paid 20 dollars for it, all wireless, including cadence).

Comments

  • FransJacques
    FransJacques Posts: 2,148
    Holy Toledo batman. Needs:

    - Bigger picture
    - Close up of lovely slotted rear dropouts
    - Non-gold rims
    - A proper stem
    When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    FransJacques wrote:
    Holy Toledo batman. Needs:

    - Bigger picture
    - Close up of lovely slotted rear dropouts
    - Non-gold rims
    - A proper stem

    I'm was lucky to even be able to post that much. Let alone blowups and all that.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    FransJacques wrote:
    Holy Toledo batman. Needs:
    - Close up of lovely slotted rear dropouts
    - Non-gold rims
    - A proper stem



    This??

    They're yellow not gold. And besides, anyone who rides a 10 year old lugged steely in this day and age of carbon maddness isn't likely to conform and put on a "normal" set of wheels. Whatever "normal" is these days? Right???

    What's wrong with my stem? You can barely make it out in the picture. :?
  • FransJacques
    FransJacques Posts: 2,148
    She looks like she's in an...ahem...erect (there I said it) position. Stems should be parallel to the ground. Which a -17 degree track stem is if you consider that track people like riding on sloped roads.
    When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    FransJacques wrote:
    She looks like she's in an...ahem...erect (there I said it) position. Stems should be parallel to the ground. Which a -17 degree track stem is if you consider that track people like riding on sloped roads.

    It's a standard 6 degree+- stem tuned up. Remember I'm 64 years old and not quite as flexible as some. I don't even ride on the drops much anymore. No real reason to. Not to worry though, the bar tops are still below the saddle.

    Oh, and by the way, for those who are wondering agout the horizontal slots that allow the dropouts to be moved front to rear a bit??? Waste of time and money IMHO. Can't figure out how sliding them ever so slightly back and forth accomplish's much of anything.
  • FransJacques
    FransJacques Posts: 2,148
    That's b/c you're supposed to run 1 side all the way fwd that the other side all the way back so you can effectively have a bike-crab or one of those 4-wheel steer cars that popped up in the 90s, then went away.

    Whyte use variable dropouts on their 29er MTBs for tighter or longer wheelbases. Good idea.

    The Santa Cruz Chameleon has dropouts for single sleep or geared set up. Good idea.

    Canyon also have front fork-ends (aka dropouts) with a little wedge so you can change rake and trail. Great idea.

    I'd love to have a frame to allow me to play with geometry to appreciate the difference it makes. If you had a frame you could tweak at both ends you could run slower steering /longer wheelbase for the mountains and a fast/short set up for crits.
    When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    FransJacques wrote:
    I'd love to have a frame to allow me to play with geometry to appreciate the difference it makes. If you had a frame you could tweak at both ends you could run slower steering /longer wheelbase for the mountains and a fast/short set up for crits.

    I'm thinking you're expecting WAY to much from being able to move the rear axle 3/8" MAX. It just doesn't make any noticeable difference(at least to me). In other words it didn't "transform" my ride, either way. Still, a very nice frame and I can't really fault it. It's served me well over the past decade or so.
  • FransJacques
    FransJacques Posts: 2,148
    That picture of your rear dropout - does your camera have a comedy fish-eye lens or are you running a 13-18 straight block?
    When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    FransJacques wrote:
    That picture of your rear dropout - does your camera have a comedy fish-eye lens or are you running a 13-18 straight block?

    12-23 10 speed.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601


    A somewhat better pic of the Gios sliding rear dropouts. I keep the axle slid all the way back because the rear D cable housing sort of takes a bad line around the axle nut if it's pushed to its forward most position. Even with Nokon housing. Also note the cable housing going into the cable guide bracket. This is because cable itself would rub on the frame, due to a slight misalignment of the cable guide under the BB. So rather than let the cable cut into the frame or vice versa I've added a bit of housing to guide it. Shifts just fine. This is really the only fault I can find on the bike. Things are a bit crowded back there.

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