CAAD 5 -> Scott CR1 Pro - school boy mistakes
TheBigBean
Posts: 21,921
My Cannondale CAAD5 frame is broken and I see that the Scott CR1 Pro framset is only £450 at Westbrook Cycles.
I'm thinking of buying this and transferring my components across. I do most maintenance myself, but I'd appreciate advice on possible mistakes I could make as I have not done this before. So far, I have thought of:
BB - Threaded so will keep Octalink
Seatpost - Will need new one as going from 27.2 to 31.6
Front derailleur - Currently I have an FD 5500, so do I need a new clamp or a whole new derailleur? Can I avoid this brazing business?
Cables - Was planning on just reusing them all, or is this foolish?
Chain - probably need to treat it to a new one.
Do I need to think about anything else? Rear derailleurs, brakes etc.
Any advice is most welcome.
I'm thinking of buying this and transferring my components across. I do most maintenance myself, but I'd appreciate advice on possible mistakes I could make as I have not done this before. So far, I have thought of:
BB - Threaded so will keep Octalink
Seatpost - Will need new one as going from 27.2 to 31.6
Front derailleur - Currently I have an FD 5500, so do I need a new clamp or a whole new derailleur? Can I avoid this brazing business?
Cables - Was planning on just reusing them all, or is this foolish?
Chain - probably need to treat it to a new one.
Do I need to think about anything else? Rear derailleurs, brakes etc.
Any advice is most welcome.
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Comments
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BB- BSD so fine
Seatpost- Yes, 31.6
Front Mech- You will need a braze-on mech. Far superior to band-on and there is no reason you should try to adapt your current one
Cable- Foolish, buy new ones
Chain- Buy a new one
Everything else is fine, but if you can stretch the budget you can get an the 6700 groupset for peanuts from Merlin.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
Thanks for such a speedy reply. Very helpful.
I was mainly trying to avoid new cables and braze-on as they are currently outside my skillset. I imagine braze-on involves a trip to the LBS and cables, some time watching You Tube.
Otherwise, it all sounds quite good.
You're right that a whole new group set is very affordable at Merlin. That opens up more options.0 -
TheBigBean wrote:I imagine braze-on involves a trip to the LBS and cables, some time watching You Tube.
No, you just screw the mech on. Only real difference is that it is harder to get it wrong and you can't crush the seat tube by overtightening. Much easier than clamp on! No difference once set up though.
Cables and chain? If they were OK before then fine to re-use them. Personally, I'd probably buy new but keep those in reserve. Nice to start out with a new bike as fresh as before but it really makes no sense to bin something that is working perfectly well.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Oh, red face time here. Braze-on does sound easy and an advancement. For some reason I had assumed it involved soldering and the like... Thanks for pointing that out.0
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If you buy a new chain, you will soon be posting on here about your gears slipping. Either buy a new chain and cassette, or use the old chain.0
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No need to buy a new seatpost just buy a shim eg http://www.wiggle.co.uk/use-sx-seat-post-shim/. Cheaper and apparently improved comfort by doing this (but that's another argument.
Also budget in for some bar tape and has others have said it's always nice to put some new cables on as the bike will feel like proper new then. I'd also get some grease and/or copper slip.0 -
Though that's not forgetting that Scott are keen to stress that thou shalt not use a shim on thy seatpost! Honestly, just buy a 31.6mm post and be done with it.chrisw12 wrote:No need to buy a new seatpost just buy a shim eg http://www.wiggle.co.uk/use-sx-seat-post-shim/. Cheaper and apparently improved comfort by doing this (but that's another argument.
Cables are one of the easiest things you can learn to replace yourself. Sounds like they haven't been changed in a long time so you may as well change them.
It may be worth asking to have the headset fitted when you order the frame as this (at least with the SL) came in a bag, which requires you to press the cups into the frame.0 -
Thanks everybody for the excellent advice. It is very helpful.Rolf F wrote:patrickf wrote:Sounds like they haven't been changed in a long time so you may as well change them.
Where does it 'sound like' that?!
I think patrickf sucessfully managed to read between the lines. My cables have worked flawlessly for a long time and, as such, I have never changed them - hence my ignorance on the subject.0 -
I have just done the same thing transferring everything from a Racelight Tk to one of Westbrooks bargain CR1-SL frames.
I bought an alloy seatpost from Ribble for £13 I think. (I also bought a braze-on front mech only to find later that my current one is a braze-on mounted on a clamp adapter :oops: . Still fitted the new one though
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Also bought a DIY headset press off Ebay (threaded rod, nuts, washers and nylon discs) Less than a fiver delivered!
Headset cups pressed in nicely. Crown race was very carefully tapped into place using a hammer and small screwdriver (I had no plastic pipe of a suitable diameter) Both these jobs you could ask your LBS to do.
Press-fit Shimano BB was already fitted at the factory, so my HT2 5603 triple crankset went straight in. Partly. Then I discovered that the projections on the inside of the inner 30t chainring were hitting the BB shell. Whipped it out again, chainring off and filed down the projections, back on and it works a treat.
Everything else transferred without issues, apart from having to replace the cable for the front mech (slightly too short and the end was too frayed to go through the tiny hole under the BB shell. Fortunately I had a spare ). Even the long drop brakes from the Tk work with the blocks slid right to the top of their slots.
Only slight problem was setting up the front mech (triple) because there are no downtube barrel adjusters on the frame. Got it in the end though!
Couple of short trips round my local loops deliberately choosing the roughest road surfaces and it confirmed that the CR1 does indeed provide a more comfortable ride than the Tk did. Said rough roads must've settled the headset components a bit cos I had to remove a tiny bit of play last night, now it's spot on.
Don't feel sorry for the old frame though; I have explained to my wife the concept of a winter / wet weather bike, and she wants to buy me the wheels / bars / stem for my birthday in September 0 -
TheBigBean wrote:Thanks everybody for the excellent advice. It is very helpful.Rolf F wrote:patrickf wrote:Sounds like they haven't been changed in a long time so you may as well change them.
Where does it 'sound like' that?!
I think patrickf sucessfully managed to read between the lines. My cables have worked flawlessly for a long time and, as such, I have never changed them - hence my ignorance on the subject.
My cables were 6 years old, apart from the inner rear gear cable which was changed 2 years ago when it frayed inside the shifter. Having released all the cable clamps on the mechs and brake calipers I just left everything attached to the bars, undid the top-cap / stem bolts and lifted the whole thing off the old bike and on to the new. I then discovered I needed to replace the front mech cable as mentioned above. It all works flawlessly. Just make sure you don't leave and ferrules behind; I found one on the garage floor after my first ride and then worked out where it went on the rear brake inner :oops:0 -
TheBigBean wrote:My Cannondale CAAD5 frame is broken and I see that the Scott CR1 Pro framset is only £450 at Westbrook Cycles.
There's also a £499 version with push fit BB
- Yes ordinary alu seat posts aren't expensive.Seatpost - Will need new one as going from 27.2 to 31.6Front derailleur - Currently I have an FD 5500, so do I need a new clamp or a whole new derailleur? Can I avoid this brazing business?
No because the attachment is on the frame. A 105 braze on is £22, just get the new one.
- No sounds reasonable, I used mine but they were only a few months old.Cables - Was planning on just reusing them all, or is this foolish?
- Can do but you don't need to.Chain - probably need to treat it to a new one.Do I need to think about anything else? Rear derailleurs, brakes etc.
Nah they should transfer.0 -
Cable outers just in case the frame stops are in different positions.
Ferrules for the cable outers.
Inline adjusters for the gear cables to solve the issue that keef found above ^.
Different sized headset spacers. The SL only had 10mm ones supplied; you may want something in between.0 -
And you may want some bits of helicopter tape to stop the outers rubbing the paint off the head tube. I'll be doing just that before it's too late.0
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I guess you'll be needing to cut down the fork steerer (and I'm assuming it comes with a headset), if you do then make sure you measure twice/cut once, or probably better still take it to competent friend/LBS for that0
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I measured once, cut once, then found out I still couldn't take up all the play in the headset so was considering taking a bit more off. Then I read something on Scott's website saying no more than a 5mm spacer above the stem. The thing came with 10mm spacers, so I then opted for no spacer above the stem. Chopped another 12mm off and now everything is nice and snug.
Note you tighten the expander bung in the steerer using a largish allen key. You have to tighten / expand it a bit before you insert it so it's gripping the steerer slightly, otherwise it'll just spin round when you try to tighten it properly. Note also it sits just proud of the top of the cut steerer, so allow for that in your measurements.0 -
I can only add-
Headset - in my case, a polite call to Westbrook and they were happy to install it before despatch
oh and, school boy errors.... Many were made in my assembling my CR1 pro. Each one a lesson learned and stored for future reference.
Enjoy - both the build and the bike. First time out on mine last night - first time on a road bike in >25 years. Loved it!Scott Cr1 Pro
Cove Handjob0 -
Remembered something else - mine came with a strip of 10 (or 12) oval 'helicopter tape' patches.Scott Cr1 Pro
Cove Handjob0 -
So, not the speediest build in the world, but I've finally finished.
Not a bad hack. Moves considerably quicker than my mountain bike that I have been commuting on recently.
Thanks for all the helpful advice people posted on here. I think everything I needed was covered with the exception of bar tape - I needed new outers which meant new tape. Not exactly a disaster.
I haven't cut the steerer yet as I'm waiting to see how much (if any) it needs cutting, and I'm seriously struggling with the front derailleur (I don't have the same range of gears I had before), but I'll have another go later after a few rides.
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markhewitt1978 wrote:TheBigBean wrote:My Cannondale CAAD5 frame is broken and I see that the Scott CR1 Pro framset is only £450 at Westbrook Cycles.
There's also a £499 version with push fit BB
£50 extra for a worse design - hmmmm. Get the £450 one.Yellow is the new Black.0 -
The red Vittoria Open Corsa CX tyres would look mint on the red Pro frame.
That steerer is uncut? Doesn't look as long as the one for the SL unless you've got a massive frame. Yours looks fine where it is unless you're uncomfortable with it.0 -
patrickf wrote:The red Vittoria Open Corsa CX tyres would look mint on the red Pro frame.
That steerer is uncut? Doesn't look as long as the one for the SL unless you've got a massive frame. Yours looks fine where it is unless you're uncomfortable with it.
I ride in London. Everything ends up London coloured eventually. The idea of paying more for black spokes always makes me laugh.
It's a 61cm frame with 35mm of spacers. I quite like the position - it's slightly higher than my old bike, but that's actually a good thing.
I now have the front derailleur set up to work with the trim thing. Not overly impressed as I could use all 18 gears before in two front derailleur positions, and I even went out of my way to buy a 9 speed front derailleur. But whatever, it is a joy to ride, so I'm very happy.0
