Wheel building kit
gbr236
Posts: 393
Apologies if this has been done.
What do i need besides hub, rim and spokes (of the correct length). Ive got a spoke key....
How is that length calculated?
Which is the best stand for a home workshop?
Cheers
What do i need besides hub, rim and spokes (of the correct length). Ive got a spoke key....
How is that length calculated?
Which is the best stand for a home workshop?
Cheers
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Comments
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gbr236 wrote:Apologies if this has been done.
What do i need besides hub, rim and spokes (of the correct length). Ive got a spoke key....
How is that length calculated?
Which is the best stand for a home workshop?
Cheers
Nipples maybe?
spoke length calculator - see the help
Best stand in my opinion is Park Tools TS2.2 or just the TS2 if you find one. There are other more expensive that i don't know how good they are. Other cheaper stands too of which some are garbage. You could use a bike fork to build a wheel as a one off I'd say but if you want to build more than a few wheels then get a stand. A tensiometer is quite handy to have. A good guide is also a good idea ( check Sheldon Brown site for a free guide or Wheelpro website for a guide £9 and well worthy.0 -
Yep, spoke nipples, some spokes come with them (worth checking)
Spoke tension meter I found very worthwhile to prevent overtightening and to ensure all the spokes are nice and even and you aren't compensating for slack spokes with adjacent taut spokes.
I used the park tool truing stand (TS8), which works better than bike forks, but isn't perfect. As long as you don't overtighten the QR when securing the wheels it is good enough to build solid wheels.
Just make sure you use a spoke length calculator. remember 1-2mm out probably isn't critical as spokes come in set lengths. Also remember the rear has uneven spoke lengths even if you are building both sides with the same lacing pattern.0 -
This is what I use -
Spoke length. I use both (basically to double check everything) -
http://spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/Welcome.aspx?language=en
http://www.sapim.be/spoke-calculator
As for kit the Minoura stand isn't bad. Stand does the job and it's very cheap (dishing tool is rubbish though). You're best off centering it using another wheelset that you know is true though, mine seems to need recentering when you move from front wheels to rear.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Minoura-Wheel-Building-Kit/dp/B001VND138
I also use a Park tension meter, without one you can count turns etc but you won't get anything like the accuracy.
http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-10 -
Good dishing tool.
Good builders how to book.
Tension meter.
Good truing stand.
Spoke key that FITS.
Nipple driver.
3 in 1 Oil.
Spoke washers IF you are using a used hub.
Well lit work area.
Spoke setting tool(nail setting punch will work).
An understanding of what you're doing before you start.0 -
Wise words from the experienced folk above. I have read that some people use their ear or alternatively an app called gStrings to get the correct tension.0
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You can use a tuning-fork to determine correct tension too.
The main thing is to familiarise yourself with the process and don't rush it.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
racingcondor wrote:As for kit the Minoura stand isn't bad. Stand does the job and it's very cheap (dishing tool is rubbish though). You're best off centering it using another wheelset that you know is true though, mine seems to need recentering when you move from front wheels to rear.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Minoura-Wheel-Building-Kit/dp/B001VND138
Seems like you're saying that you should use another wheelset to set up your dishing tool. I disagree. The dishing tool IS the final test of whether your newly made wheel is centered, not some comparison with another wheel. You must work on the wheel util the dishing tool can be used on either side of the wheel and not show a gap where it touches the lock nuts.
Also the dishing tool will HAVE to be reset when you switch from a front to a rear wheel because of different hub widths between front and rear.0 -
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the dishing tool. Necessary.
Spoke driver, not essential but useful. I made my own and in fact I made 3 with different lengths. I had a wheel with spoke a little short so I made one for that and while I was at it I made one in case I have spokes too long A screwdriver works as well.
A bit of masking tape to mark a spoke when you need to answer the phone or something else.
Some light motor oil.
Cotton buds to oil around the hole inside the rim.
Most importantly, have an idea of what you are doing and small steps. Don't be afraid to start again, I think that is the beauty with wheelbuilding, you can always go back and try again.0 -
I find a trueing stand very helpful, better than building a wheel on the bike. But I have never used a dishing tool, I actually use the bike instead. The brake-pads are very good indicators. A tensiometer is important if you want to build wheels with iffy components that have specific requirements on spoke tension. Otherwise not absolutely necessary but certainly helpful to achieve equal spoke tension. Many mechanics are natural tensiometers and only need a mechanical one, if they have to know absolute numbers. Also comparing the pitches of the spokes is quite reliable, that is my method.
My best software-tool is youtube, with asian horror movies. They are fun to watch, keep me relaxed and it doesn't matter when I miss some parts0 -
My stand and dishing tool are made of wood. Does a perfectly good job.- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
Mindermast wrote:I find a trueing stand very helpful, better than building a wheel on the bike. But I have never used a dishing tool, I actually use the bike instead. The brake-pads are very good indicators.
I would be interested to know how you determine that the brake pads are centered(on anything) and are therefore any kind of reliable indicator that the rim is centered between the axle lock nuts? :?0 -
Thanks everyone
Quite a shopping list of tools there!0