Spoke failure - Correctly re-laced? (I Guess Not)

Stewpot407

Afternoon,

I've broken two spokes over the last couple weeks. The first time my LBS replaced the spoke. The second time I instructed them to replace all spokes for double butted dt's. Job done and picked up the bike last night.

On closer inspection I've noticed that the spokes aren't as straight as I thought they should be. To me and my completely untrained eye it looks as if the spokes are started on the wrong side of the hub forcing more curvature.

Can you have a quick look and tell me if all looks good?











Cheers

Stew

desweller

Looks all right to me.

Monty Dog

You'll find big debates online whether leading/trailing spokes should be heads-in or heads-out with strong arguments put forward in either case. The great Sheldon Brown advocates trailing spokes, heads-in which is what your builder has done.

Stewpot407

That's all I need to know chaps, thank you very much.

Cheers

Stew

crankycrank

To me it looks as though the heads-in spokes have not been seated properly resulting in the bowing you're seeing. Hard to tell for sure but a possibility.

TheRealGuybrush

I would say it's laced correctly, however the finishing on the build could have been better.

Stewpot407

Oh dear!

Went out today... 4 spokes on the non drive side virtually fell out. I'm not sure they either tightened them up corrected or didn't use any thread lock. Not happy!!! Photos to follow

Cheers

Stew

nicklouse

As above does look like they have not been finished off to well.

the fact that you have had a failure already looks like a serious lack of tension in the build.

smidsy

Get your money back and go to a proper wheel builder who actually uses a tension meter.

As for lacing, these are Pete Matthews build (who knows a thing or two about wheels).

Monty Dog

They might have got the spoke lacing correct, but cannot vouch for quality of built - paired spoke designs require higher, consistent spoke tensions - if not, spokes are over-loaded, leading to premature failure. If the builder doesn't use a tension meter, find someone who does.

heez29

It's how I'd lace the wheel. However failure already? Not the greatest of build unfortunately.

Also that last picture put up not by the OP is a 3 cross build, OP has a 2 cross build.

Stewpot407

Wheel is going back to the LBS. The shop owner is working on it this time. Fingers crossed for a better result.

Different lengths?


Brand new Corsa CX's rubbed against the frame and are now down to the canvas


Spaghetti Spokes




Really, really hoping that the rim isn't toast now

Cheers

Stew

heez29

FLOL.

Wrong size spokes... The first picture you put up looks like a different wheel. The above post, 3rd picture is laughable.

smidsy

heez29 wrote:

Also that last picture put up not by the OP is a 3 cross build, OP has a 2 cross build.

Indeed. It was more to show the direction of the lacing as the OP seemed concerned about that element.

junglist_matty

If my wheel was re-built and came back looking like this:



I'd have asked for my money back and gone to another shop to get it tensioned, those spokes are clearly not tensioned right; I bet the wheel wasn't even laterally trued looking at those original photos!

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html wrote:

At this stage, the spokes will not be running straight, but will be noticeably curved where they leave the hub. The leading spokes, in particular, will be swooping outward as they leave the hub, then gradually curving back toward the rim. Before you start applying tension to the spokes, you should bend them by hand so that they fit snugly against the sides of the hub flanges. This can be done easily by pressing on each spoke in turn with your thumb about an inch out from the hub. If you don't do this, the spokes will still be slightly curved when the wheel is finished. These curves will gradually straighten themselves out over the first few hundred miles on the road, and the wheel will lose tension and go out of true.

Top tip: Find a new wheelbuilder!