Bottom Bracket Removal

DomHill
DomHill Posts: 10
edited July 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Cycling my Marin B17 home the other day a clicking noise started as I pedalled. Over the next few miles this developed into a loud crack and at times the cranks were hard to turn. On the assumption that it's a bottom bracket issue I decided rather than pay to have it fixed I'd have a go myself so ordered a tool set (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40997) and proceeded to dismantle. The cranks came off no problem but that's where I hit problems.

I can't budge the retaining rings on either side. I'm trying to turn towards to front of the bike on both sides which I believe is correct. Do I just need to get a longer tool to get more leverage or am I likely to do damage if I just try to force it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    front of the bike is relative.

    read http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... ervice-bbt and check you are rotating the correct way and use more force.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    I removed an external bottom bracket not too long ago, with the same problem of not being able to get the bb to budge whatsover. I thought I needed a tool with longer leverage also.

    I believe if your turning clockwise on the driveside this is right but don't take my word for it.

    Use a rubber mallet with short, quick hits with not too much power.

    here was my thread: viewtopic.php?f=10004&t=12927784
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    What BB? External or internal (which it sounds like)? What material?

    3 foot breaker bar never been beaten!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • DomHill
    DomHill Posts: 10
    Hi,

    Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I'm going to need a bit more leverage. Unfortunately I'm living at my girlfriend's and all my other tools are in storage and can't get at them so am either going to have to buy a rubber mallet or a bigger spanner and give them a go.

    It was orginally a "TruVativ with Sealed Cartridge and Power Spline" but I had it replaced a couple of years ago and not sure what's in there now.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    If you've got a spanner that fits, a seat post can often work for extra leverage.
  • trespasser66
    trespasser66 Posts: 10
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    If you've got a spanner that fits, a seat post can often work for extra leverage.


    Dam, that sounds like experience. certainly beats my ring spanner method.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    trespasser66 wrote:
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    If you've got a spanner that fits, a seat post can often work for extra leverage.


    Dam, that sounds like experience. certainly beats my ring spanner method.

    What could possibly go wrong. I mean thin walled aluminium tubes are well know for being used as shifter bars :lol:

    Not saying it wont work just saying I wouldnt like to do it with my seatpost.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • DomHill
    DomHill Posts: 10
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    If you've got a spanner that fits, a seat post can often work for extra leverage.

    Worked a treat :D

Categories