Fixing a hole (in a chain)..

Schoie81
Schoie81 Posts: 749
edited July 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Right, so a new experience for me - out on the bike this lunchtime, freewheeled down a bit of a hill and just started to put some effort in to get up the other side and suddenly the cranks are spinning. Sure enough, a look down and then over my shoulder identifies the problem - my chain is now in the middle of the road.

The plate on one link has come off and I couldn't find it. So how do I fix it? Can you buy replacement links? Or do I need a new chain? The chain has done 1900miles and (if i'm completely honest) hasn't really been looked after all that well :oops: ) is it breaking a sign that I'm ready for a new one anyway?

It was a nice day for a walk anyway.... :?
"I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    it depends on the condition of the chain. I would replace it.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • thistle_
    thistle_ Posts: 7,217
    You could put it back together using a power link, which would be fine for getting you home.

    If it's worn out and not looked after you may as well buy a new one. You could get a PC971 for £9 just over a month ago on Amazon (now going for £11)
  • Schoie81
    Schoie81 Posts: 749
    nicklouse wrote:
    it depends on the condition of the chain. I would replace it.

    So i've read about the 12" measurement thing for checking wear - if i'm doing that right, I reckon it measures 12 1/8" - which I guess means its getting ready for the bin? Probably makes more sense buying a new one than paying out to fix one that's nearly had it anyway?
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Yes, it is done.

    It's only a few quid for a quick link, but it is ready for the bin and is ruining other bits now too. You'll more than likely find if you replace the chain the cassette will need changing too possibly rings too.
  • Schoie81
    Schoie81 Posts: 749
    Sorry, it measures 12 1/16" so not quite as bad as I first said. Not used to inches these days!! Still figure i'll just buy a new one though.

    Is there much difference between Shimano, KMC and SRAM chains - or are similar priced chains from each manufacturer about the same quality?
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Schoie81 wrote:
    Sorry, it measures 12 1/16" so not quite as bad as I first said. Not used to inches these days!! Still figure i'll just buy a new one though.

    Is there much difference between Shimano, KMC and SRAM chains - or are similar priced chains from each manufacturer about the same quality?

    It is knackered bin it.

    In my experience there is no difference in equivalent SRAM and Shimano chains I have bust both types. KMC seem so far to be tougher and slightly longer lasting particulary if you get the slightly more expensive chrome plated ones plus the KMC quick link is better than the SRAM one and miles better than Shimanos rubbishy pin.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Schoie81
    Schoie81 Posts: 749
    So...if I order a 9-speed chain - will it come the right length - ie. is there a standard length? Or does the length I need depend upon the cassette and crankset i've got on my bike? If so, how do I know what length the chain should be and how many links to remove (if any)?
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Measure around big/big, excluding the mech and add about an inch, or one full link (two bits).
    And read Parktools - link below for how to do anything.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Schoie81
    Schoie81 Posts: 749
    cooldad wrote:
    Measure around big/big, excluding the mech and add about an inch, or one full link (two bits).
    And read Parktools - link below for how to do anything.

    Followed the ParkTools link thank you - started reading and got as far as 'Existing Chain Method'. I used to think I was quite a clever person - now i'm not so sure? :? Make the new chain the same length as the old one - could anything be more obvious?? Its been a long week....
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Not if the chain is stretched, as it could be substantial. It also pre-supposes the chain was the correct length, which it might not have been.
    Use the big/big method.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Cooldad is right dont rely on the original chain being right you see quite a few bikes with a chain that hasnt been sized properly. Also dont forget you will need a chain breaker tool. Obvious but I was once sat beside a trail with a spare link in my hand and the contents of my rucksack spread out before me. I had everything in my rucksack but the chain breaker and had to walk about 5 miles.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • Schoie81
    Schoie81 Posts: 749
    Well i never had any problems with the chain (until it snapped after 1900miles) and I trust the LBS that set up my bike for me, so I assume it was the right length. Will use the big-big method anyway and see what it comes up with and compare it with old chain - it'll be interesting if nothing else!

    And yes, i've got a chain breaker. Fitted wipperman connex quicklinks to the chains on both my bikes so they're easy to get off - in fact, when the chain went, my first thought was that they'd come apart/failed - but not the case.
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"