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New bike possible issues

rich_prich_p Posts: 21
edited July 2013 in MTB beginners
I've just received my new bike and have spent some time doing the final assembly.

The bike in question is a 2011 Cannondale trial sl2. It was partially set up by the online supplier and I just had to fit the front wheel, handle bars pedal and seat.

First issue was the appeared to be some swarf left in the seat tube which scratched/gouged the seat post. I managed to clean that up and now it slides in ok and luckily the damage is hidden.

The rest of the bike went together ok, pedals on nice and tight etc.

Now my questions, I've had a quick ride up the street and i can feel a slight knock which sounds like its coming from the crank area. The crank arms are tight, could this be an issue with the bearings?

Next question is the fork. It's an RST deuce air. I understand these are not well liked but as I'm fairly light I'm hoping they will be ok for now and I won't be serious trail riding. On rebound they make an odd loud squeak type sound as they reach full extension. Is this normal for air shocks?

I'm not sure what pressure the supplier set them at as I need to get a shock pump.

And finally it has slx shifters. I'm confused by the way they operate.

On the right hand shifter for the rear mech it up shifts when I push the small trigger and drops down it I push the bigger lever.

On the other shifter it's the opposite push the bigger lever and it up shifts and touch the smaller trigger and it drops down. This is the same way both shifters work on my shimano gears on my old bike.

Are they adjustable so I can get them both operating in the same way? It's confusing the way it is!

I just want to get a better understanding of the issues in case the supplier tries to fob me off.

Thanks

Posts

  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    All gear shifters are this way, except if you have a Rapid Rise rear derailer, which are rare and discontinued.

    Many forks make noises as the damping works - but they do need setting up ie do get a shock pump, set sag and adjust the rebond damping.

    Bikes bed in - and they need adjutment afterwards. If you are not confident with readjustment, try a service at a local shop, but is good to learn these things as they will need redoing.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,756
    supersonic wrote:
    Rapid Rise rear derailer, which are rare and discontinued.
    More's the pity.... (2 bikes in the house have an RR rear mech)

    You'll want to learn to do stuff yourself, mountain bikes ridden offroad require frequant fettling and it will get very expensive if you have to pay, ask on here in the workshop and tech forum, or look on parktools.com website where they have some excellent tutorials.

    Knock from the cranks...
    1/ Sloppy pedal bearing
    2/ Pedal not done up TIGHT (very tight, FT...)
    3/ Cranks (what type?) not done up properly including
    4/ Play in bottom bracket bearings (could be due to 3 if they are external or press fit type)
    5/ Another noise feeding through the frame (Bikes are a censored for that!)
  • What they all said - check that every nut and bolt is tight and then give it a couple of weeks.
    It will all bed in (or you will have got used to it).
    2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
    2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
    2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)
  • rich_prich_p Posts: 21
    Thanks for the advice.

    As suggested I fully intend to learn how to adjust everything, I'm pretty practical so should be ok.
    I've checked everything and the only loose things I could find were the screws holding the cage of the pedal to the central part. A few of them required a few turns before they were tight.

    Hopefully that will help. I unfortunately can't test it as my forearm is twice the size it normally is as I knackered the tendons while driving a rally car at the weekend! It's most frustrating seeing the bike sat there!
  • YeehaaMcgeeYeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Rich_p wrote:
    On the other shifter it's the opposite push the bigger lever and it up shifts and touch the smaller trigger and it drops down. This is the same way both shifters work on my shimano gears on my old bike.

    Are they adjustable so I can get them both operating in the same way? It's confusing the way it is!
    Here's a mnemonic to help you remember...
    Big button, big cog. Little button, little cog! :D
  • rich_prich_p Posts: 21
    I'll try and remember that, thanks :o

    I've given it another once over and it seems the rear wheel wasn't seated properly either. It was making a knocking that really sounded like it was coming from the bb even with an ear up close. It's amazing how the sound travels through the frame isn't it.

    I've just run it up the road and the clicking noise appears to have gone.
  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 14,770
    Dont tighten pedals too tight. They will tighten with use and only really need pinching up. They also need some grease on the threads.
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