Front hub / fork spacing.

OK, today I received a 2nd hand MTB off the forum nothing fancy just a basic hardtail.
My problem is either with the spacing of the front hub or the fork. It is a 130mm travel Manitou (says 130 COMP FFD) and the hubs are unbranded.

The fork seems to have approximately a 106mm spacing as far as my calipers can tell and the hubs are a good bit less seemingly 100mm. Would it be possible to fit 10mm Hub Axle Spacers of 3mm width on either side of the hub to "bridge the gap?" If not 3mm wide spacers either side of the hub then what other suggestions would you have?
Many thanks
Tony
My problem is either with the spacing of the front hub or the fork. It is a 130mm travel Manitou (says 130 COMP FFD) and the hubs are unbranded.

The fork seems to have approximately a 106mm spacing as far as my calipers can tell and the hubs are a good bit less seemingly 100mm. Would it be possible to fit 10mm Hub Axle Spacers of 3mm width on either side of the hub to "bridge the gap?" If not 3mm wide spacers either side of the hub then what other suggestions would you have?
Many thanks
Tony
0
Posts
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
Tony
Just tried it and it takes a great deal of effort to tighten the QR up and the fork has to squeeze and bend so much to close the 3mm or so gap on either side of the hub.
Is it usual that a 100mm fork is 106mm as seen in the photo? I'm just new to this MTB technical lark!
Cheers
This is why I am thinking that 3mm spacers could work eliminating this gap?
Cheers
Tony
just do it up and use it or send it back.
space it out and you will not have fork legs that are parallel and will seize, wear out or just not work.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
I can't remember my previous MTB being like this to tighten the front QR. I don't know if I have the strength to do it up though. Is it common to need a huge amount of effort to tighten up or usual for a 3mm gap either side of the hub before tightening the QR?
I will check in the morning but I don't think any of my other bikes have this issue and certainly are not a struggle to tighten up. Sorry about all the questions this is just a new problem I have never had before.
Cheers
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
Thanks
Tony
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
Tony
It did take a LOT of force to tighten the QR up to this level. :shock:
Is there any way that this fork is unsuitable for 100mm hubs?
Something needs changed as something is obviously very wrong the way it is. I can't help but think that a spacer might sort some of this out but has anyone else had similar experiences? I just can't for the life of me see how it could work without a spacer at the disc side at least to try to center the hub on the fork as it is currently much too far to the left.
Thanks for the suggestions so far.
Oh the frustration! :x
Tony
They shoold not need a spacer.
You can try and push them back together a bit.
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
In the following photo it shows the rotor tight against the left brake pad. As mentioned above it takes a great deal of effort to bring the fork legs 6mm closer together.
In the photo below it shows the spokes hitting the brake and the rotor bolts hitting the fork preventing the wheel turning as well as the rotor being jammed up (and bent) against the left side of the brake pad. Pushing the fork legs together will not help and a spacer between the hub and fork is surely needed to push the wheel out a bit bringing the brake rotor in line with the pad and allowing the wheel to turn freely?
It can be difficult to get things across as well as I would like on the internet, I'm trying to show the issue with the photos but its hard to be clear. In real life you guys would probably see straight away what needs done. I appreciate the input and suggestions a great deal BTW as really I am stuck or missing on something very simple!
Thanks again
You can try and space the hub out.
My guess is the fork has been in a nasty crash and bent/twisted the structure.
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
Basically the right side of the fork was twisted and bent outwards (as seen in following photos) which was causing the gap. The right arm also is slightly warped with a bulge that can be felt by hand but is hard to see with the eye. We put the bike upside down as it was easier to work on and photograph from below than on the stand.
He decided that it would have to be bent back but it probably wouldn't work considering the extent of it and with it being aluminium, with nothing to lose I decided we would give it a try. Little by little we bent it and tested it with the wheel mounted back in and it was coming closer to being straight and the gap was closing but unfortunately the aluminium fork end gave way and broke away from the fork body... Oh well at the onlookers (friends family) found it hilarious but that was the end of the fork though I am not too upset as he said that I would probably need to buy a new fork anyway.
I will obviously email the seller (who has been very reasonable so far) about this and see where we will take it. My eyes are currently peeled on ebay for a 120/130mm travel fork!
Cheers
Tony
CRC has some old Manitou lower leg assemblies for as little as £12.50
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Brands.aspx?BrandID=198&CategoryID=587
FFD = Fluid Flow Damper
If you want to ID it measure the stanchion diameter and post some more photos of the fork.
I will take some photos in a bit and post them.
Tony
The fork stanchions are 30mm in diameter which is the same as the Manitou Relic.
I see Manitou Slate - Relic lower legs on CRC but they appear to be V-brake only and I need disc mounts. Is it a difficult job to replace the fork lowers usually?
Tony
That lower leg assemby would have V-brake mounts and disc brake mounts.
Manitou forks are fairly easy to work on.
You might find some useful info in the following manual.
http://www.manitoumtb.com/assets/Service%20Manuals/2007%20Manitou%20Fork%20Service%20Manual.pdf
According to the part number in that manual the legs at CRC are for a 2007 model, CRC and Hotlines use the same Brand ID, Model ID and Stock ID for parts but only Hotlines lists the manufacturers part number.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21119
http://www.hotlines-uk.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21119
Photo: 2007 Slate Comp
Tony
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
Tony
They are just £25 at CRC and if it is an easy job for us or the LBS to do then I will go ahead and order today. If it is going to be tough or expensive then I will just buy 2nd hand RockShox Tora's or something similar.
Thanks
Tony
Add required oil and refitting is the reverse of removal, you can even do it without removing the forks from the frame.