Cassette fitting. How tight?

shinsplint
shinsplint Posts: 565
edited June 2013 in Workshop
I was once told I should tighten the nut / lock-ring really hard, but time and time again I have a nightmare releasing the thing.

Last night it took several attempts, with my other half holding the chain whip in place while I used as much force as I could - both hands - to release it. Got there in the end but we couldnt believe how tight it was. If I remember correctly I even lightly sprayed the hub with some lube before I fitted it.

So just wondered how tight is the norm? And do you use any grease / lube before fitting your cassette?

Cheers.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    it says on the lock ring. IIRC 40Nm

    to remove. lean the wheel against your legs, cassette away. fit tools at about 3 and 9 O'clock and press down. simple.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • shinsplint
    shinsplint Posts: 565
    Thanks nicklouse, in all honesty i've no idea what sort of force 40Nm would require.

    Your description is exactly what I do already.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    40Nm is a good, firm heave but not enough for the veins on your forehead to start throbbing! Pressing the tyre against a wall provides plenty of resistance
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    Since I got a torque wrench it turns out that 40Nm isn't nearly as much as I thought - much easier to get it on and off now.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • ridgerider
    ridgerider Posts: 2,851
    Monty Dog wrote:
    40Nm is a good, firm heave but not enough for the veins on your forehead to start throbbing!
    Monty...what is 8Nm like as I am in the process of swapping saddles around?
    I have been guessing at a reasonable force using wrist only, not whole arm...
    Half man, Half bike
  • shinsplint
    shinsplint Posts: 565
    ok cheers guys
  • NewTTer
    NewTTer Posts: 463
    Ridgerider wrote:
    Monty Dog wrote:
    40Nm is a good, firm heave but not enough for the veins on your forehead to start throbbing!
    Monty...what is 8Nm like as I am in the process of swapping saddles around?
    I have been guessing at a reasonable force using wrist only, not whole arm...

    Fingers only for such a low torque
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    8Nm is no more than a twist of the wrist using a T-handle driver between middle fingers IME - used to do lots of mechanical assembly at 6Nm, so you develop a feel for it.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • laurentian
    laurentian Posts: 2,388
    ShinSplint wrote:

    So just wondered how tight is the norm? And do you use any grease / lube before fitting your cassette?

    Cheers.

    As with a lot if nuts/bolts etc. a dab of copaslip around the thread will make it easier to remove next time.
    Wilier Izoard XP
  • mrbrightside
    mrbrightside Posts: 214
    I purchased a whip and lock ring tool on tues, was advised by the tea boy /cycle mechanics that torque wrench is not required just 'nip it up'.

    Changed cassette all is fine however get a big thwack/clunk only when changing down for like 17t to 16t, any thoughts?
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Don't pedal as hard when actually changing gears...?

    PP

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